Home Improvement Today?

Who knows mini split HVAC systems? We have a Pioneer one whose air handler is showing a P1 error code. The fan on the air handler is blowing fine. The compressor outside starts up but only goes for a second or two and shuts down. I checked voltage where the power supply is connected to the compressor and it was ok.

Service tech checked it out yesterday and said it was a bad motherboard. He also said we’d have to replace the boards in both the air handler unit and compressor unit because they are a matched set…which triggered my BS detector. $3k to do it. Was he trying to scam us?

 

You got my attention.

I will say this. On my normal HVAC system, installed NEW in the attic, and within 1.5 years, started NOT cooling, and collecting water in the emergency pan which is designed to protect the ceiling of the home I'm talking quarts and quarts. Over the next month service guy came, 'fixed' it, drained pan & checked
float switch. Then unit began exhibiting same issues all over. I go up there, and find the drain tube has a balance of water collected in it I proceed to unclog it effectively and the rush of water flows out and if I remember correctly I pulled some major gunk out of that tube that obviously would have clogged a small forrest stream. I think after that the unit operated just fine I was furious that the technician would not have performed the same basic maintenance to unclog same drain for the price I paid to get him there in the first place. Just saying, check your drainage path to ensure it is all perfectly clear and eliminate that as the potential root problem. Long story, when the HVAC team was there, they stepped off the rafters and caused extensive ceiling damage that they had to fix over the next couple weeks...



I was going to post same video @wilcam47 posted. You gotta take charge in these situations if you don't want your checking acct drained as well.

 

Went around to the basement for every wire that I've ran since I've owned the house, and made sure staples were both present and wire was taught. Then I grabbed more escutcheons and secured the pex in the same fashion. Looking to sell the house and just want to button up any low hanging fruit. I'm not a pro but I like to show that I take pride in my work for the little shit.

 

Wrapped up installing eastern white cedar shakes (customer pre sprayed them with clear preservative) on the upper side of this 1850's barn. Nothing is level, plum, even or square. T111 was installed by homeowner. Not level. The facia/roof dips 3" from L to R and sort of levels out about 2/3 towards the right. Cheated courses incrementally to make it less noticeable. I just tacked up the top white trim as I wasn’t planning to inatall it the other day (didn't have the proper nail gun). I think it looks about as good as it can. The back of the barn is unfinished. Customer is thinking metal. I won't be doing that. There's no corner trim, so I just ran everything long to be cut at a later date. Not sure if that wil be me. Going to finish the section to the left in the coming weeks.

 

Is that your neighbor's place?

 

No.

My neighbor's house & barn are much older. 1776

 

Need some assistance from those more experienced with stair railings. A customer had this short hand rail section come loose. It's on a landing that then transitions to the basement stairs. The horizontal section is 2' and the longer section is about 4'. It was only attached to the plaster walls with those lead wall anchors. I'm going to use toggle bolts of some sort, so I have that part covered. My problem is that miter. It's loose and only held together with a bunch of thin finish nails all put in at different angles. I'd like to redo it and make it nice and tight/solid. I'm not really a "woodworker" so I don't have a biscuit or domino tool. I do have a basic dowel jig. If I marked carefully, would a couple dowels and plenty of glue be adequate? I could always use some 3" trim head screws to tighten it so the glue could setup. I have limited experience working with handrails.

Open to any ideas/suggestions.

 

clean old glue off something like this then fill hole.

 

That method makes sense for a 90. I'm worried it'll shift/slide being a 45.

 

I would also give that upper section some support with another handrail bracket. Then when you clean up the glue and reglue it, it won’t just have that upper connection point as the main support for that section. If you can pretty much get that miter close id glue it and use some wood filler to help fill in any remaining gaps. Without refinishing the whole thing I think you may find whatever you do is gonna be noticeable. It would drive me nuts but homeowner probably won’t be a picky if there’s been a huge gap there for a while!

 

Good idea on that extra bracket. Thanks.

 

Maybe... but let it dry then put screw in

 

Need a way to clamp it.

 

Just stand there and hold it till the glue dries.

 

@Sig45 After making a few match marks I'd pull it apart. Remove existing brad nails if possible. Sand both ends clean. I'd remove the mounting bracket from the 2 foot section. Then pre-dill and counter bore for the appropriate length screw. Put some Titebond on both ends. Put them together then drive that screw in until it pulls both ends tight. Wait a few hours then install. The screw will keep it from ever separating again and the glue will stop any rotation. Added bonus is you have completely hidden the screw once the mounting bracket is re-installed.

 

pocket screws from the 4 footer into the 2 footer on the bottom?

 

Tore out our leaking hot tub that I built our deck around a good 15 years ago. It posed a tricky situation to fill the hole... The design of the deck made it impossible to do anything with the hole the tub was in so we decided to build a sauna! Here are a few pics of the process, never built a sauna OR a structure of any kind.. Thoughts?? To make things easier, the footings for foundation are in place and so is electrical.
Pic heavy because this thread would be boring without...


Deck after tub removal.


Removal of deck tub was sitting on.


Next up, the complicated floor. Wire mesh to keep critters out of ROCKWOOL insulation and allowing air flow and moisture release.


Now for the walls, had to build them in pre fabricated segments to then insert into the existing deck structure with Tyvek wrap and blueskin in place. Wonder wife lends a hand.










The heater, HUUM DROP 6



The goal! I plan to Shou-sugi-ban the exterior cedar (burn the wood till black) with raw cedar inside and an ergonomic comfy bench for two.
I will also have custom made two pane tempered glass windows made and 1/2" thick tempered glass door without a frame.



Thoughts from the pros?? Anyone else build a sauna with some insight??
Roof ideas??

 

Wow, you should build houses. Nice.

 

As this is my 1st structure I've ever built (I've built many things tho) I appreciate the remark. It is fun!!