Brakes pulling left after Tundra upgrade SOLVED

When you step on the brake pedal are both calipers clamping?

 

Trace hard lines to ABS pump?
All good?

 

You are doing everythimg that I would be doing. The next thing to check the rear shoe adjustment.

 

My truck was doing something similar and the bolts on my lbj were lose. Might wanna give everything in the front end a once over especially since you just rebuilt it.

 

As far as I know they are. I will say that if I jam on the brakes the truck changes lanes. If I slowly clamp down it mostly stops straight.

I guess, I mean there is no rust or damage or anything that I can see.

I agree I should have done a better job at this when I refreshed everything. I need to finish adjusting the parking brake as well. Its on my list for this weekend.

Thats a good call, I did find a loose sway bar end link a couple weeks ago so I will give it a once over.

 

No worries, diagnosing things takes time, am I correct first time 100% of the time, hell no, but after testing I know what it isnt and sometimes thats more important to figuring out what it is. Too many Y branches and have taken the wrong path... just wait until the new part you put in is just as bad or worse than the known bad part you just replaced.

 

I wanted to update this thread as I am still struggling to fix this. I have checked over the suspension components and cant find anything loose. The truck drives straight as an arrow and handles well.

What I have done recently:
- I have removed the ABS system and installed a Willwood valve up front. It was way easier than I thought. I only had to make two lines. It took like 4 hours I think before I was test driving it. Willwood set to max limit. This is I think 50% reduction to rear.

-Adjusted rear brakes. This was not as easy as I thought it would be. There is no exact science to it. I just turned the adjusters until I felt like both sides are dragging the same.

The truck still pulls left when I am at greater than 45 and jam on them. If I'm going slow it stops straight even if I jam on them. The wheel still cocks 10degrees to the right when I hit the brakes at speed. I have to account for this and pull it back to the left slightly to keep it straight. The only time it feels dangerous is highway off ramps when braking into a steep turn. Downright spooky turning right and the truck wants to go left.

When I had it aligned the tech told me it was difficult to lock in the settings because one setting was changing another when it should not. Like adjusting toe should not affect camber or something. I sadly can't remember what he said. Thats has me thinking its suspension related and not brakes, I just can't find anything. I am open to any suggestions. I'm even to the point where I would take it to a shop if I could find somebody that really knew their shit.

I was thinking to mount a camera down below facing the suspension to actually see what happens when I hit the brakes at speed.

 

Wait, I’m confused. You installed a Wilwood proportioning valve to the front brakes after removing the ABS system? The picture indicates the valve being use for the rear position. When folks installed the valve, it’s to replace the LSPV. Hopefully you’re not running the Wilwood in line with the LSPV.

Also, hopefully with the ABS delete, you got the correct line routed from the 3-way splitter from under the MC.

 

No the valve is running the rear, lspv deleted with abs. Yes the t under the mc is feeding the front brakes. When I say "installed up front" I just mean the valve is in the engine bay, not out back as some have done. Sorry if that was confusing.

 

You have a drivers side (left pull) and you replaced the passenger caliper?

Isn’t the opposite?

 

If the brakes wasn’t pulling before the TBU, I would rule out the rear. Some simple question I would ask:
1) are the calipers installed on the correct side. You can verify this by looking at the bleeder screw, should be facing upward.
2) have you verify both calipers are clamping when the brakes are applied. Especially the opposite side of the pull.
3) if you purchased the calipers at your local auto parts, I would warranty them. I see reman calipers go bad out of the box. It’s poor quality nowadays.
4) check the wheel bearings. I service a Tacoma years ago that was pulling and we couldn’t figure out why. The owner wanted to change the bearing out as PM, after the change, no more pulling.
5) check your ITE and OTR for play. I could imagine of one side has play, under load, the play will allow the wheel to slightly cock and turn. That’s a possibly.

 

Not a yota. But had a left pull because the passenger brake line was clogged (always happens where there is a clamp or something).

If it were the caliper though not sure if it would be same side or opposite side problem.

 

Lift the whole front end. Have an assistant or use someting to apply brakes see if one wheel turns and other doesnt. Could be collapsing rubber hose under pressure

 

Bleeder screws are on top. With the hard line the calipers only install one way.
Amazon premier1 calipers.
I never drove the truck stock, I rebuilt the front end before it hit the road. All new everything.
I am correct in assuming driver caliper is clamping because its pulling that way right? I only replaced the passenger because I thought if it was clamping less it would take the truck to the drivers.

I have a set of spindles with manual hubs and new bearings ready to install. I just need to find some cv's. I had the same thought about the bearing but the wheel has no play when its in the air.

 

After driving it to the gym this morning and really paying attention at all speeds it pulls left all the time. Its just less noticeable at low speed. I could replace both calipers, I just feel like that's throwing money at it hoping it works. If reman calipers are really that bad maybe I should though.

 

Do your shocks have adjustable resivors? What do the bushings in the lower control arm look like. How are you alignment tabs. It's weird that the alignment guy cant get your setup to lock in.

 

Steering rack torqued correctly? Steering rack bushings worn? You can check yourself by having the truck running and kneel to look under the truck while you turn the wheel and see if the rack moves back and forth. If you haven’t replaced the brake lines, putting braided stainless both front and rear would be a good upgrade over stock.

Kind of a pain in the ass and shouldn’t need to be done but, but you could get rebuild kits from Toyota and tear the calipers down yourself.
https://youtu.be/Zgeag_ygrdM

That way you could inspect the caliper pistons and replace those individually if necessary.

If the remanufactured calipers reused old rusty pistons those could drag
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem-toyota-tundra-brake_caliper_piston.html

 

The shocks are the 6112's. He did get it to lock in, he just made a comment about it giving him heck.
Control arms are new, Rock Auto. Uppers are JBA, also new. The alignment tabs are freed up but not new. They are the only thing I did not replace.

The steering rack has 150k on it. It is not leaking. I replaced with poly when I tore it all apart. I got Stainless braided lines with the hardlines from AdventureTaco when I did the TBU.

That is one thing I have not spent a lot of time investigating is the steering rack. Could it have play internally and not be leaking? There is a little bit of play in the steering wheel, I just figured its 20+ years old.

 

@Darce read post #5 https://www.bc4x4.com/threads/2003-tacoma-braking-issue-sticking.131784/

Still didnt verify if passenger caliper is holding/working

 

The caliper is working, I can't tell how well. How do you measure caliper clamping force? Maybe one of the pistons is stuck?
When I jacked it up and hit the brake you can hear it compress on the rotor.

I have a new one piece driveshaft.