(Engine Trashed?) Thread of Unfortunate Events

I think overland tune is located in Birmingham AL and has a dyno.

 

When supercharged, the 3UR-FE has the same failure. It’s caused by boost and ring gaps that are too tight for a forced induction build. That heat causes the ring gap to close up, butt against, and pop the second ring land. More fuel will save the day here, but better pistons w/ larger ring gap are a no brainer at this point.

Also, I can give you screaming deal on some very nice forged rods if you want a really a beefy bottom end.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/forged-connecting-rods.780002/#post-27889867

 

I still think cheapest option is low mileage pulled engine, will get you running the soonest. But out of these options #2. If I were to go all in no price limit I’d do forged pistons, darton sleeves, kelford cams, cometic hg, arp head bolts, upgraded racing bearings. This has to be done by a machine shop that does this regularly. At some point though LS swap might be cheaper/easier for DIY (no machine shop needed).

Regardless, I’d replace the fuel pump if you’re still stock and want to keep boosting. It’s an easy upgrade that’ll help the future tune stay out of lean territory.

Here’s a helpful video (his is a 1GR but they’re not that different when it comes to the principles of building a fire breathing GR beast).

https://youtu.be/Qkwh3TBvjaw?si=aB1-1FLjlhUI9Kiy

Or you could be a trail blazer and we’ll be here watching you find another route. You might find good advise on other forums that boost the 2GR (ie Lotus) so there is that also.

 

You cannot machine the cylinder sleeves nor replace sleeves on 2gr-fks. Save money and buy used engine

 

^^^ he is correct- Page 77, sorry for the bad news.

https://downloads.regulations.gov/NHTSA-2018-0067-12577/attachment_3.pdf

 

I wanted to share that earlier, but it seemed like details like that weren’t really mattering for this build.

 

I will consider these, what's the price? Also, what piston and rings would you recommend? Just set the gap on the rings to half tolerance or the largest I can per spec?

 

Yup. Or trailblazer into Darton sleeves territory. I mean they do sell sleeves for the Lotus yota 2GR-FE (not taco 2GR-FKS) engine. But with the right $$$ anything is possible.

 

$699 for the rods. I know of a custom set of pistons that was ordered for a turbo build, kept the stock comp ratio… I’ll look into those again. There must be several+ good sets available from a variety of manufacturers by now. I have not looked into the ring gap required for the 2GR w/ boost, but will do so.

 

I see. Let's say I don't need to bore the cylinders if the sleeves are in spec. Can a cross hatch be applied to them?

 

Thank you! Even if I buy a used engine, I probably need to set the gaps. This isn't slap a used engine in and hope for the best. I need to try and salvage what I have and upgrade so I don't run into this issue again. I'm having a hard time finding rings. Looks like pistons from factory are forged. Probably only need to upgrade rods and ring gap.

If everyone says it's not possible to try and put cross hatches back into the sleeves well, what do we think about me buying a new short block from Toyota for 3k, pulling the pistons out and setting the ring gap per whatever spec we all decide is needed with a supercharger?

 

How do you set a gap?
Your sleeves are shot and you only can buy 94 mm pistons.

 

Close up of cylinder 6. https://imgur.com/a/QUBEU0e

 

Grinding the rings to have more gap

 

What if the bore is 94.5? Do you go with griding?

 

Sleeves don't look terrible. I see cross hatches all over them. It's that one vertical spot that maybe a honing stone can fix? We aren't building a race car here just need it to not grenade itself.

 

So, from my understanding you set the rings into the cylinder and measure the gap. You grind the ring ends to open it to the recommended spec for a super charger. Then I have less chance of them closing up and breaking the piston.

My engine is toast because of 2 reasons. One being tune and the second being ring gap.

 

These blocks can be honed or over-bored up to 1.00mm/.040”. The aftermarket offers several sizes of pistons that are readily available for similar Toyota engines with the cast in liners. I’d opt for as little as possible with it being forced induction. The problem here is they don’t have them available for the direct injection engines yet, just the older port injection ATM. This = custom piston, but your block could be saved.

 

Toyota obviously doesn’t recommend. The aftermarket seems to think differently. Hone it .005” with pistons to match.