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Noises, lifts, dealer frustration

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by rwood14, Jun 16, 2025.

  1. Jun 16, 2025 at 2:57 PM
    #1
    rwood14

    rwood14 [OP] Member

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    3/2 Ready Lift Kit 33 Toyo MT Method 17" MR305
    Apologies for a lengthy post but hoping for some help with a noise I'm having and the best direction to go on a few different things.

    Owner of a 2014 DCLB. Self installed Ready Lift 3"F/2"R and 33" Toyo MT with 17" Method MR305. Did the install in December of 2023, I believe shortly after began hearing a noise. Only under load, low end of gears especially 4th and 5th when rpms try to stay around 1100. Can sometimes be loud, always quiet enough that without windows up, air off and radio off it can almost not be heard unless you are listening for it. The best thing I've come up with to compare the noise to would be loose rockers on a small block chevy engine. Sort of grinding, metallic, but again only under load and engine sounds healthy.

    I'm a marine mechanic by trade so have been trying to diagnose myself over the last year or so whenever it really pisses me off, only thing I had been able to find was a leaking diff seal on drivers side cv with a lot of movement ( to me ) on the diff side of that cv axle. This is when I took it to the shop. First shop said noise is most likely a bearing in the diff and recommended taking it to the dealer. Being a very reputable shop I took their advice. After a day with the truck the dealer comes back and says the wheel bearings are going on top of the leaking diff seal. Every sentence ending with "because of the lift". This isn't my first lifted tacoma and only 1 of who knows how many on the road with close to if not identical setups as mine, so I'm finding this hard to believe.

    The truck does have a fair amount of positive camber which needs to be addressed, in the mean time I have been rotating tires with a bit more frequency. The dealer also recommended a diff drop kit which from a bit of reading doesn't do that much to counter the "extreme" angles the driveline components have according to the tech/service advisor.

    So where do I go from here? Start with UCA's and correct the camber? Differential drop? Both and see what that does for my noise issue? Rip it all off and go back to stock?

    TIA for any help.
     
  2. Jun 16, 2025 at 3:07 PM
    #2
    BabyBilly

    BabyBilly Well-Known Member

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    Can you describe the noise a little more clearly? Could it be whining from the differential or is it something else entirely? Noises are almost always difficult to pin down.

    UCAs won't do anything for camber, but they will allow you to add more caster. Unless you got wheels with a huge negative offset wheel bearings aren't going to have any more stress than stock. Diff drop is pointless don't spend your time or money on that.
     
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  3. Jun 16, 2025 at 3:09 PM
    #3
    RockinU

    RockinU Well-Known Member

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    Replace the needle bearing in the front diff with the ECGS bushing. A quick search will give you all the info you need
     
  4. Jun 16, 2025 at 3:12 PM
    #4
    rwood14

    rwood14 [OP] Member

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    3/2 Ready Lift Kit 33 Toyo MT Method 17" MR305
    They are the worst and trying to describe the noise is just as hard! It is definitely a metallic sound. Almost like a spark pinging.

     
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  5. Jun 16, 2025 at 3:13 PM
    #5
    rwood14

    rwood14 [OP] Member

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    3/2 Ready Lift Kit 33 Toyo MT Method 17" MR305

    I've seen this recommended but what is it accomplishing exactly?
     
  6. Jun 16, 2025 at 3:16 PM
    #6
    BabyBilly

    BabyBilly Well-Known Member

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    A good test for this is to shift into 4hi when you hear the noise, and if the noise goes away it means you need to replace the needle bearing with the ECGS bushing.

    The needle bearing falls apart under stress from CV angles on a >2" lift typically, and the bushing doesn't fail in those same conditions.
     
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  7. Jun 16, 2025 at 3:32 PM
    #7
    rwood14

    rwood14 [OP] Member

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    3/2 Ready Lift Kit 33 Toyo MT Method 17" MR305
    10-4 thank you will have to try this.
     
    BabyBilly[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Jun 18, 2025 at 10:53 AM
    #8
    Saskabush

    Saskabush Well-Known Member

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    Elka 2.5" DSC w/ Deaver Stage 1, Archive Hammer Hangers, SPC UCAs, Timbren bumps, TRD baja wheels, 265/75r16 Wildpeak AT4W, Greenlane Sliders, Warn slimline bumper, N-Fab spare tire box mount.
    The factory needle bearings have a bit more than ideal play in them. When you increase the angle on the cv axle, the axle sometimes starts to oscillate in the bearing rather than smoothly rotate. You can feel this as a vibration, @BabyBilly explained the test for it. The oscillation basically destroys the bearings over time making the problem worse. The bushing has a much tighter fit and doesn't allow the oscillating.

    FYI, the CV axles just have lots of play/movement in them. Both in/out and side to side. That's normal. Even after swapping to the ECGS bushing there will be lots of play, though the side to side movement is reduced.

    Camber is adjusted via the LCA only. Some aftermarket UCAs like SPC have a camber adjustment though. With 33's I'd recommend looking into SPCs because you will want to use the LCA adjustments to move the wheel as far forward as possible to avoid rubbing. The UCA can then be used for final camber and caster adjustments. Without UCA adjustment you can only do so much and any additional caster just means the wheel moves closer to the firewall and cab mount. There is also a good chance that your off camber MTs are what is causing this noise. I've been convinced on more than 1 occasion that my wheel bearings were shot, only to find out that it was my tires.

    FWIW, I've been running ~2.5" (3" at one point) of lift with 32s for about 12 years now and the wheel bearings are still fine. I also have 1.25" wheel spacers which should, in theory, make that problem worse. In fact, other than the CV boots, nothing has had premature wear for me. So I think the "it's your lift" excuse is a BS cop out.
     
  9. Jun 18, 2025 at 1:46 PM
    #9
    rwood14

    rwood14 [OP] Member

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    3/2 Ready Lift Kit 33 Toyo MT Method 17" MR305
    Greatly appreciate the thorough response.

    I did the test that BabyBilly recommended, still had my noise. I do not have a vibration which I guess explains why it didn't change anything. I am starting to think that maybe you're right in that it is the off camber stance with the bigger tires causing the noise. My wheel bearings shake test OK and feel smooth. If the play in the axle is normal the only other thing would be the gear lube leak where that axle comes out of the diff. But maybe that is just a separate issue all together. Guess I will be looking into some UCA's and get the camber leveled out and go from there.

    Thanks again.
     
  10. Jun 18, 2025 at 2:08 PM
    #10
    rwood14

    rwood14 [OP] Member

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    Didn't quote you on my above response but doing some research on UCA's, seen many guys mentioning the ball joints are poor quality and would recommend JBA's. I think the JBA's are a fixed camber adjustment? I also don't like the red color, haha.
     
  11. Jun 18, 2025 at 2:13 PM
    #11
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    might be the engine lugging and struggling at low rpm from the taller tires. 1,100 rpm is pretty low for getting power to the wheels, the engine is barely above idle

    I have 33s also and around town I'm in 4th gear pretty much all the time
     
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  12. Jun 18, 2025 at 2:20 PM
    #12
    Saskabush

    Saskabush Well-Known Member

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    Happy to help!

    I don't see why the diff seal would be the cause... It's basically just a round rubber flap that pushes up against a flange on the cv axle. https://i.plenty.parts/i/850/pictures_ppp_pc20155_417_9031147012.jpg That leak will just be that rubber flap being torn or not touching the cv axle anymore. So nothing that would cause a noise that I can think of.

    Yeah... SPC had a bad run of those, which caused problems for a few years with people. But as of June 2024 they have a new ball joint design that is much better. The bushing problem should also be solved now. I personally have SPCs, and have had to get warranty replacement on them so I got the full lowdown from the rep. My replacements have been solid ever since though. And without writing a novel about the problems they were having and the changes they've made, I'm confident they will last now. Basically it was a tolerance issue from outsourced manufacturing.

    JBA's are not adjustable and won't really help. They often will just push the wheel even further back which makes any rubbing worse.
     
  13. Jun 18, 2025 at 2:21 PM
    #13
    Saskabush

    Saskabush Well-Known Member

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    I was actually just about to mention this. I too leave it in 4th for anything under 60km/h. Even with 32's I notice this.
     
  14. Jun 18, 2025 at 2:33 PM
    #14
    rwood14

    rwood14 [OP] Member

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    3/2 Ready Lift Kit 33 Toyo MT Method 17" MR305

    So sounds like SPC has it figured out. Awesome. Definitely a good thought with the rpm. I've ran in 4th before to test but haven't recently, will have to test after I get the UCA's on and realigned.

    Thank you guys for all the help.
     

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