TORSPD: NEVR

Just getting the occasional rapid clicking noise from the passenger side. Now I need to check the 12V side for accurate voltage. I already double checked my wiring through the Haltech loom, and it Ohm'd out properly.

 

Ah ok.
Have you tried applying power and ground directly to the solenoid with the engine running to see if it moves?

 

Did you load test the wires? Ohm checking isn't ideal for circuits that carry a load.

 

I wanted to make sure I had them actually wired to their correct locations, so for that aspect it was good. Since only the ground wire goes through the Haltech, that was all that I could check. So no, I did not load test.

In the 2nd half of the video, is the used one of mine.
https://rumble.com/v6tilrn-toyota-1gr-oil-control-valves-testing.html

 

12VDC is supplied from OEM ECU still. Then through the coil. Then back to the E6 plug. Then into the Boomslang harness. Then out to the Haltech. As shown by this pinout.

 

I meant having them installed and the engine running to see if the cams move when you put power to the solenoid.

 

Ahhh, I did that a long time ago, but not recently. That's actually why I made that jumper harness long ago, that is seen in the video.

Also, the unit is having a MAP sensor problem. May or may not be related.

Just got off of the phone with Haltech's Tech support. They said that the MAP problem I am having is sounding like it may be shorted.

For those here, key ON and engine off, the tracer will follow the MAP sensor's load, across the fuel cells. As well as shown the MAP reading. I will get a video tonight. The tracer will slowly move across the fuel map from 21 inHg to atmosphere, and even into PSI. Cycle the power, and it will repeat.

Again, maybe it failed and is causing additional issues, or maybe totally unrelated.

 

I'll see if I can get a video of that tonight as well.

 

I'm guessing the unit has it's own MAP sensor? 2nd gens use MAF instead of MAP.

 

This is correct. An integrated MAP, with the option to run a remote MAP sensor.

 

A very handy unit. It was also the only option to be able to handle the fueling and load cell requirements for above what the TRD map was designed for, as well as what say the APR X-1, and other ms that I've dealt with. The Haltech was also the only one which could actually fully control the throttle body, and accelerator pedal.

Which was weird considering that the X-1 was designed to control the throttle pedal. Never could on my truck. As if the programming on the 4x4 was different than that of the X-Runner. Having the throttle speed limiter kick in when racing was not an acceptable amount of control. With the power my truck makes, the ~105 speed limiter could easily be overcome on the straights.

 

Shoot. I just remembered that harness is at a different location from my truck. Possibly this Sunday.

 

Thats above my knowledge level lol.
All I know is stock systems, custom tuning is above my head.

 

It's all good. You're a Master of that arena.

 

The rain has been impeding me troubleshooting today. The only thing that I could do so far for testing the passenger phaser operation, was swap the harness plug from the driver side onto the passenger phaser, and see if it worked. It did. So there must be a 12v supply problem. I have to do more testing once the rain stops.

 

Just did a quick test. Removed the plugs from the OCVs. Check for voltage at both pins of each plug, to chassis ground.

Passenger side had no voltage at either pin.

Driver side was odd though, that it had voltage on the Blue/Red wire. Not the Blue/white wire.

Now this makes me curious if this is the same on a "normal" truck?

 

I'd have to poke around and see if I have any scope captures saved of the OCV control wires, I'll look...

 

I have one where I'm connected to OC1+, looks like I was incorrect and it is controlled on the Power side.

~30% duty cycle with the valve off and ~65% duty cycle with the valve commanded on (scan tool function).



I can get captures of all 4 wires if you need me to but I don't know when I'll have time to do it.

 

This helps a lot!

 

This gives me two questions.

1: what Hz is this?

2: In the OCV wiring photo that you shared, the wires matched my truck's. What I am now curious of is where the wires' pin and plug locations are?

In the pinout supplied to me in the earlier photo, the "switched 12v" pins match the positive wires going to the OCV plugs. But what if one of them actually isn't correct? I will test the wires coming out of the OEM ecu this afternoon with a voltmeter, while the engine is running. Then report back.