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Still Rubbing with 285s? Here’s What I’ve Tried – Need Input!

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by PirieDog, Jun 16, 2025.

  1. Jun 16, 2025 at 1:11 PM
    #1
    PirieDog

    PirieDog [OP] Member

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    Shortly after installing 285/70/17s on some Bilstein 1500s, I did some minor trimming in the wheel well, which dramatically improved what was a significant rubbing issue at the time. After less frequent but still continuous rubbing continued, I eventually took a heat gun to the fender liner and was able to mold back much of what was making contact with my tires. Since then, pavement driving has been almost perfect, with the occasional rub on turns onto steep driveways or other scenarios you could imagine.

    Still, I don't feel confident for this summer's trail season. I've yet to take this new setup off pavement, and I want to feel the same confidence that I did on the stock 265s.

    I'm wondering if anyone could share what they did with their fender liner. Third-party replacement, further trimming or heat gun adjustment, removal altogether? Whatever you got!

    I want the wheel well to look as OEM as possible while giving me close to, if not 100%, confidence in its clearance.

    unnamed.jpg
     
  2. Jun 16, 2025 at 1:38 PM
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    Veet-88

    Veet-88 Well-Known Member

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    What are your wheel specs?

    Any added caster to the alignment?
     
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  3. Jun 16, 2025 at 2:00 PM
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    PirieDog

    PirieDog [OP] Member

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    They are the KMC KM725 Terra's.

    0 offset with no caster.
     
  4. Jun 16, 2025 at 2:15 PM
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    Veet-88

    Veet-88 Well-Known Member

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    Get some caster added and that will solve the majority of your issues. I believe I was running 4.2 or 4.5 on mine.

    You may have to shove the front of the fender liner forward a bit after this, but that is super easy to do. I only had minor heat molding in the back and a small front tuck to get to no rubbing outside of my flaps
     
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  5. Jun 16, 2025 at 2:32 PM
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    PirieDog

    PirieDog [OP] Member

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    Hadn't thought of that, thanks!

    Is 4.5 noticeable visually at all? Caster is something I never considered simply because I like the 0 degree look. What do you think?
     
  6. Jun 16, 2025 at 3:39 PM
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    Veet-88

    Veet-88 Well-Known Member

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    Caster will be hardly visible it just shifts the wheel slightly forward in the wheel well.

    20220723_164311.jpg

    That's a 17x9 +1 285/70r17 and the high caster alignment
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2025
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  7. Jun 16, 2025 at 4:52 PM
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    gudujarlson

    gudujarlson Well-Known Member

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  8. Jun 17, 2025 at 11:22 AM
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    blacktaco77

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  9. Jun 17, 2025 at 11:31 AM
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    gudujarlson

    gudujarlson Well-Known Member

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  10. Jun 17, 2025 at 9:08 PM
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    blacktaco77

    blacktaco77 Well-Known Member

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    Not exactly sure about the adjustable camber but yes they allow you to pretty much max out your lower control arm adjustment foward and still achieve good alignment
     
  11. Jun 17, 2025 at 9:32 PM
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    MGMDesertTaco

    MGMDesertTaco Come on, live a little...

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  12. Jun 19, 2025 at 5:26 AM
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    shaggy135

    shaggy135 Well-Known Member

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    There's a few things to do, also depends on where you are still rubbing:

    1 - Cab mount chop or relocation.
    2 - hammer down the pinch weld in the fender.
    3 - add wheel spacers or get wheels with more offset. I had to change from 0 to -12.
    4 - change the UCA and/or LCA's and then get another alignment.
    5 - start tubbing the fenders.
    6 - high clearance fender liners. C4 makes a really good kit.

    Don't forget some black paint too. Because even after all of that, you will still probably rub the top of the inner fenders.

    I eventually moved up to 35's, so I've done it all. Here is the final look. Once you start wheeling though, that whole OEM look goes out the window, ha.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Jun 19, 2025 at 12:57 PM
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    4x4junkie

    4x4junkie Well-Known Member

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  14. Jun 20, 2025 at 1:11 PM
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    Tocamo

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    I really wanted to go the 285 route, but at too much cost. And really it's more for the looks than performance.

    33" 255 is the way go, performance wise and ground clearance.

    You 285 guys can beat me up all you want for saying this, I've got broad shoulders...
     
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  15. Jun 20, 2025 at 1:18 PM
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    Toycoma2021

    Toycoma2021 Well-Known Member

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    Yea, another convert to 255/85R16s.
     
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  16. Jun 20, 2025 at 1:36 PM
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    gudujarlson

    gudujarlson Well-Known Member

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    Intuitively, diameter is more functional than width and it’s backed up by looking at the tires used by competition off-road, farm, and military vehicles and this video.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wAJAOxh8LE
     
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  17. Jun 20, 2025 at 2:03 PM
    #17
    VaToy

    VaToy Life Long Member

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    Bilsteins 5100s on the top setting, 4runner Gray TRD Pro Sema wheels, 285/70/17 Toyo AT3s, Sumo Bump stops, TRD exhaust, ECGS Clamshell bushing, 1/4 shim for the lean and one inch rear block, OEM Pro grill and garnish OEM TRD Skid plate, TRD CAI, Demon Brackets, Rigid Industries Pro fog lights, OEM Trail Rails sidebars, Diode Dynamics LED SL1 high and low beam lights, OEM Roof racks, Clazzio leather heated seats, Remote Start, TRD Pro shift knob, tinted windows, Rockford Fosgate 4 channel amp for the headunit and sub and amp combo, OEM Puddle lights, OEM tailgate lock, OEM bed mat, LED interior lights, OEM blackout kit for letters, JLT catch can, upgraded 27F toyota True Start battery, Vleds led tail light kit with Pro tail lights, OEM Rave4 side mirrors with convex spotters,just to name a few mods.
    Again285s here and no issues! No rubbing, no cutting, speedometer calibrated, tuned and a great alignment! I like a wide tire as a 285 is close but no like the days of 35x12.50s floating Accross the beach! Run what you brung!
     
  18. Jun 20, 2025 at 2:05 PM
    #18
    JFriday1

    JFriday1 Well-Known Member

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    There is some mis-information in here.

    I would determine where you are rubbing 1st.

    More caster from the LCA moves the wheel forward. Aftermarket UCA's with additional caster moves the wheel backwards. 0 is the best offset to clear, going to -12 will generally not give you more clearance unless we are talking about clearance between the tire and the UCA. -12 will take a little more work to clear front and back.

    Your best bet for offroading is a body mount chop for the rear and, an inner fender mod, or a small viper cut for the front.

    They key thing to remember is that you might clear on the street, but not so much while off roading. Turn those wheels and hit some bigger dips into parking lots and drive ways to articulate the suspension as much as possible, or pull the shocks and cycle the suspension to see how much clearance that you have.
     

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