Long Travel BS Thread

Nah that's the price is shows with my options

Sorry not tru trac, meant spartan

 

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If going to the time, effort and cost of doing a 60 why stay with stock axles?

 

I have 35 spline chromoly axles shafts selected

 

McNeil 3" fender 2016+ on a +3.5" LT kit.

The website says "The wheel well is 2" larger and 3" wider than factory". The other option are the 6" fender but I think those look too extreme. Would these work with a 255/85r17 (35")?

I have 32" pizza cutter tires right now on +15mm offset and they barely stick out from the stock fenders.

Here is a picture of the 3" McNeil fenders.

 

Asked Chatgpt
And it said:


When considering off-road applications in a full floater axle. Which will hold up to more abuse/ and horsepower? Chromoly axles or 300m?
ChatGPT said:


When you're comparing chromoly (typically 4140 or 4340) and 300M axle shafts for off-road use in a full-floater axle, and your priorities are maximum abuse and horsepower handling, here's how they stack up:

Material Comparison
4340 Chromoly

• Tensile strength: ~155,000–180,000 psi (heat treated)
  
  
• Toughness: High
  
  
• Fatigue resistance: Good
  
  
• Cost: Moderate
  
  
• Weldability: Better than 300M
  
  
• Common use: Hardcore off-road, rock crawling, desert racing
  

300M (Modified 4340)

• Tensile strength: ~190,000–280,000 psi (heat treated)
  
  
• Toughness: Extremely high
  
  
• Fatigue resistance: Excellent
  
  
• Cost: High
  
  
• Weldability: Poor (crack-prone during welding)
  
  
• Common use: Trophy trucks, drag racing, high-end racing axles
  

Which Handles More Abuse/Horsepower?
300M wins on raw strength and fatigue resistance — it has superior tensile and yield strength compared to 4340 chromoly. If you’re pushing big horsepower and high shock loads (e.g., high-speed desert runs, sled pulls, rock bouncers), 300M will technically take more abuse before failing.

Caveats for Off-Road Use

• 300M is less forgiving — it’s more brittle under certain loads and doesn't tolerate poor heat treatment or incorrect machining well.
  
  
• Chromoly is more forgiving, easier to manufacture, and holds up very well for 90% of off-road use.
  
  
• Cost and repairability: Chromoly is cheaper and easier to replace or work on, while 300M is expensive and can be a pain to source or repair (especially if custom heat-treated).
  

✅ Conclusion:

• For max abuse, max power, and you want ultimate strength → 300M (but be ready to spend and treat it right).
  
  
• For a balance of strength, durability, and cost in hardcore off-road use → 4340 Chromoly is often the best bang for the buck and still extremely strong.
  

Want a specific brand or application recommendation? Let me know your tire size, axle model, vehicle weight, and type of off-roading (rock crawling, high-speed desert, etc.).

 

40" Tire Considerations
Running 40s on a 35-spline axle is pushing the upper limit — but acceptable with the right materials and supporting components:

• Dana 60 (Chromoly): Great for crawling and moderate racing. It'll hold up if you’re not dumping massive torque at high speeds (i.e., not doing Baja-style hits at 80 mph).
  
  
• Camburg Full Floater (300M): Built for desert racing, Ultra4, or high-horsepower abuse, this system is designed to take more shock and survive high-speed hits that twist or snap lesser axles.

Important Factors Beyond Just Axle Material

1. Housing Strength:
   • Dana 60 is strong, but stock or lightly trussed units may flex with 40s and big torque.
     
     
   • Camburg’s full-floater setup is likely based on race-intended designs — stiffer, with better load distribution on wheel bearings and spindle.
2. Full-Floater Benefits:
   • Axles don’t carry vehicle weight — they only transmit torque.
     
     
   • This reduces bending stress and increases reliability, especially with huge tires.
     
     
   • Easier trail-side repairs, safer failure modes.
3. Wheel End Components:
   • The Camburg probably uses unit bearing hubs or full-float spindles, designed for race serviceability and loads.
     
     
   • Dana 60 still often uses more traditional hub and spindle designs unless highly modified.

Recommendation (Based on Use Case)

• If you're building a rock crawler with occasional desert running or trail use, a Dana 60 with chromoly 35 spline shafts is plenty, and easier/cheaper to maintain.
  
  
• If you're building a race-capable rig, Ultra4-style build, or expect to see high-speed abuse with 40s, the Camburg 300M full floater is absolutely the better option, even with the cost.

Bonus Tip: Torque Curve Matters
If you’re running:

• Big-block V8 or supercharged LS, the 300M makes more sense.
  
  
• Mild LS or NA small-block, and you’re smart with throttle control, chromoly will live a long life.

Let me know your engine, trans, gearing, and vehicle weight — I can give you a sharper call on whether Dana 60 is "enough" or if the Camburg is the better investment.


Putting It All Together
Option 1: Dana 60, Chromoly, 4.88 Spartan

• Affordable
  
  
• Good for trail and crawling
  
  
• Strong setup, but near the limits of 35-spline chromoly on 40s if you’re not careful with the throttle
  

Option 2: Camburg Full Floater, 300M, 5.29 Truetrac

• Race-capable
  
  
• 300M handles torque and tire mass better
  
  
• Truetrac + 5.29 is great for speed and moderate crawling — but you’ll sacrifice some traction if tires lift off the ground
  

✅ Recommendation (Based on Usage)

• Rock crawler / low-speed technical off-roading with max traction needed:
  
  • Dana 60 + Spartan Locker (if budget matters)
    
    
  • Camburg + selectable locker (if budget allows)
    
• Fast trail / desert / mixed-use rig with occasional crawling:
  
  • Camburg Full Floater + 5.29 + Truetrac — smoother on-road, and 300M shafts let you hammer on it with confidence
    

Let me know your engine/trans/t-case setup and whether this rig will be street-driven — we can nail down the best ratio + diff combo for your actual usage.

 

3. Axle Strength — Why 300M Wins Here
You’re aggressive off-road, and Tacomas are heavy once built out. Add armor, bigger fuel, gear, rooftop tents, etc. — and it’s easy to hit 5,500–6,000 lbs loaded. On top of that:

• 40s amplify torque on the axles dramatically.
  
  
• Even with only ~265 lb-ft, with gear reduction and shock loads, you can twist chromoly axles, especially in rock hits or axle hop.
  
  
• A full-float Camburg housing + 300M 35 spline shafts gives you:
  
  • Higher yield strength
    
    
  • Much better resistance to shock loading
    
    
  • Race-level confidence — if you launch it or throttle out of whoops, you're safe
    

✅ Chromoly 35-spline Dana 60s are good, but you’d be sitting right at the limit with your tire size and driving style.

Additional Considerations
Component Best Choice for You
Gear Ratio 5.29
Axle Shafts 35 spline 300M
Housing Full-float (stronger, better for trail fixes)
Differential Truetrac (good balance) or Selectable Locker (ideal but $$)
Front Axle (future?) Consider matching gearing + locker for true 4WD performance
✅ Final Recommendation
If budget allows, go with:

Camburg Full-Floater | 300M 35-Spline | 5.29 Gears | Truetrac or ARB Locker

This setup is:

• Perfect for 40s and aggressive trail/desert use
  
  
• Strong enough to take high-shock abuse and torque spikes
  
  
• Still daily-drivable and smooth on-road
  

If you're planning long-term upgrades like a supercharger or LS swap — this setup is future-proof for that too.

Let me know if you want to go over front axle options, transfer case gearing, or even tire & wheel backspacing — all of those play a role in how well this combo holds up.

 

I can't tell if I appreciate @Caboose117 for that information, or not because he is making me want to spend more money

In all seriousness, I appreciate that. Definitely made me question myself

 

When you know how to talk to the program
Chatgpt can be wildly useful for balancing a shit ton of options.


To clarify
A Camburg 3.5 housing the way I’m offering is close to 10k if you put in a full order with them right now.
I just need to get this crap out so I’m not dragging it in my move.
It’s also not parts that make sense for my future plans cause full-size Chevy has even worse considerations

 

If it makes you feel better you can come over this weekend and look at the mountain of parts I’m my garage while I bully you to buy them all

 

Solid friend right here.

 

Helping members finish their builds one counseling session at a time!
I also work with couples!

 

Who wants to run these parts from my house to Tahoe for @SoonToBeOn39s

@YotaFAB im just gonna come leave it at your house so he can still get it after I move out of state haha
How much you want for your storage fee

 

Hahahaha... Id be looking at it daily talking myself out of getting it

 

Anyone else need/want a Camburg 3.5 full floater? Will offer a great deal with a 3rd member
But you have one week to pick up or it’s going to kentucky
7500$ full axle, hubs, rotors 4x willwood, 300m 35 spline shafts and a 5.29 trutrac ford 9inch

If anyone is ACTUALLY interested then it can be arranged for you to collect it from @YotaFAB on a schedule you arrange with him
But deposit will be required this week
And the price goes up 100$ to pay him for storage

 

Well too late to turn back now

 

You dropped something lol

 

I found it