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Need help bringing 1995 4Runner back to life.

Discussion in '4Runners' started by Taco0416, Jun 13, 2025.

  1. Jun 13, 2025 at 12:32 PM
    #1
    Taco0416

    Taco0416 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I just bought a 1995 4Runner 3.0 and looking to bring her back to life. So I took a chance, bought her for $800 and ready to put whatever it takes to get her running again.

    The past owner said head gasket blew but the way he described it doesn’t sound like a head gasket. He said the 4Runner was at idle on his property when he heard a pop and saw it starting to smoke so he shut it off. He didn’t try to start it up again and just let it sit for the past 2 years in the same place it died.

    I towed it back to my house gave it a good wash and began trouble shooting. The battery was dead dead so I put it on the charger. Once charged all accessories work, the engine cranks but won’t turn over. The battery is 7 years old.

    I understand the basics. Fuel, air, spark. So I bought and installed a new battery, new spark plugs, air filter. I added 5 gallons on gas into the tank and still engine cranks but won’t turn over. Any ideas on where to go from here?


    https://youtube.com/shorts/ismsMEBBV0o?si=xKyd6bb6D_2CK02J
     
    wilcam47 likes this.
  2. Jun 13, 2025 at 12:33 PM
    #2
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
    I love it! Does the horn work? Swap horn and fuel pump relay, maybe. Good luck!
     
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  3. Jun 13, 2025 at 12:39 PM
    #3
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    Gonna have to verify it has fuel pressure and spark. Doesnt sound like its even trying to start/fire up so have to start off on checklist. Check fuses. Id swap efi relay with another of same type, usually have a blower motor or something similar in fuse box.
     
  4. Jun 14, 2025 at 9:26 PM
    #4
    Taco0416

    Taco0416 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Long Update*

    So I got her running. The problem was a fuel pump that wasn’t sending fuel. Definitely a pain in the ass to either drop the fuel tank or what I ending up doing was cut a hole under the back seat. When I put the new fuel pump in I noticed a pin hole leak in the line out of the fuel pump squirting fuel. (See video below and please ignore shitty music, don’t know how to edit out) I tried to patch it but ended up going the cheap and easy route by cutting out the section and adding a rubber fuel line over it clamping it with hose clamps. It ran fine and has been leak free since. Not a permanent fix but good enough till I get money to replace the full piece.

    https://youtube.com/shorts/TwLq5Pfw94k?si=czv-MVnRsn-swWsi

    She was up and running for 20 mins without any obvious issue. So I took her out for a few mile drive to see what’s next to work on. Right away I noticed the clutch was absolutely trash. Very very poor shifting and the clutch was sticking to the floor. The guy who sold me the car warned me about it but didn’t say it was this bad.

    During the drive I noticed a few other things that need fixed. The clutch was getting worse and worse the further I drove getting really really hard to shift into gear with me manually having to lift the clutch pedal back into place.

    By the time I pulled back within a block from my house I couldn’t even shift into gear. As I rolled to a stop the engine started to slightly smoke. The Engine gage was showing slightly high but not hot. I turned off the engine and looked under the 4Runner and could see the coolant flowing heavily under the engine. I pushed her back to my house. After it cooled down I refilled the coolant and added K seal head gasket sealer. I ran the engine for 20-30 mins and it didn’t leak and idled great for that time. I increased the RPMs up and down during that time with no issues.

    The next day I started it up and when the engine warmed up it began to heavily drop antifreeze again. Im no mechanic but I’m thinking the head gasket blew? No milkshake in the oil, no exhaust bubbles in the antifreeze prior to it leaking everywhere, no blue smoke which is a good sign. The last two head gaskets that went out on me didn’t completely fail like this so not 100% sure if it’s the head gasket but it’s what makes since to me. It’s not ideal, but I have done two other head gaskets so knock on wood feeling somewhat confident that I can do it.

    So clutch and head gasket need done before I take it out again. The other thing I noted was a slight grinding noise when driving which the guy I bought it from said it had a suspension issue but unsure what. He said he put a two inch lift on the 4Runner and has noticed it since. You can see in the tires that is wearing heavily on the outside of the tires. The guy thought maybe increase the size of the tires would solve the issue but was unsure and didn’t have the money or time to figure it out. I’m thinking maybe that or he never did an alignment after which is why it was wearing the tire like that. No idea on the grinding sound but makes since to my dumb brain.

    So the question I have is before I tear down the engine am I on the right path with the head gasket and clutch? Any other ideas or ideas on the suspension?

    IMG_6224.png
     
  5. Jun 14, 2025 at 9:38 PM
    #5
    Matt Sierra

    Matt Sierra Well-Known Member

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    You said you saw coolant leaking out of the engine bay? Is it leaking from the head? Have you pressure tested it?
     
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  6. Jun 14, 2025 at 9:48 PM
    #6
    Taco0416

    Taco0416 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I don’t have a great view of the heads and the block but the coolant looks like it was running down the block and running off right between where the engine and the transmission meet. It doesn’t look like it’s coming from the radiator and the heater core looks fine. Maybe a water pump but thinking more toward head gasket. I could do a pressure test to confirm but the 3vzfe engine is freaking stupid and not user friendly with spark plug location on the passenger side. All the spark plug have a slight tilt into the engine and most of the plugs require some knuckle or combo of socket extension to get the plugs in just right.
     
  7. Jun 14, 2025 at 10:25 PM
    #7
    Matt Sierra

    Matt Sierra Well-Known Member

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    Your call. Personally I’d pressure test and confirm the leak site before tearing into it because:
    1) It would suck to do the heads and still have the coolant leak afterwards.
    2) Something else might break when you’re pulling the heads, you could end up with new problems, and you won’t know for sure if you addressed the original issue.

    Let us know how it turns out.
     
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  8. Jun 15, 2025 at 6:54 AM
    #8
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    Could just be a coolant hose?
     
    Matt Sierra[QUOTED] likes this.
  9. Jun 19, 2025 at 7:16 AM
    #9
    Taco0416

    Taco0416 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Update*

    I did the compression test. All cylinders were low around 125psi but Both cylinder 4/6 were 95 psi with active leaking during leak down test. So I pulled the engine….

    Im planning on doing the clutch at the same time so thought about doing it all at once instead of dropping the transmission. also gives me a chance to deep clean the engine bay/engine. Anyways, engine is out.

    After getting the engine out I noticed this plug was broke. I’m trying to identify what this plug is so I can replace it. It’s on the rear of the engine next what looks like a coolant hose and the coolant temp sensor. Any ideas? Thanks for the help

    IMG_6274.jpg
    IMG_6285.jpg
     
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  10. Jun 19, 2025 at 8:18 AM
    #10
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    ECT sensor?
    https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/4runner-3-0-engine-sensor-question-314231/
     
  11. Jun 19, 2025 at 8:29 AM
    #11
    slater

    slater Well-Known Member

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    As stated, ECT sensor / temp sensor of some sort...
    Any thoughts of sending that engine out to a local reputable rebuilder since you have it out....
    Sounds like the guy you bought it from really wasnt up to keeping things maintained....
    You have the engine out, would suck to do head gaskets, get it all back together & installed...
    2 months later you have a crank bearing issue....

    Having an engine rebuilder rebuild that engine start to finish, $3k'ish...


    How many miles are on it?
     
  12. Jun 19, 2025 at 9:35 AM
    #12
    Taco0416

    Taco0416 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thank you guys for finding the part. I will go get the part this week and get it replaced. The 4Runner has around 200k ish miles on it. Definitely don’t have the money to do a send out and complete rebuild but also would like to catch/fix a problem before it becomes an issue when everything is back together.

    When I tear down the top of the engine and get the heads off I will get a good look at the block and make that decision. I am going to have the heads planed and test the block for straightness. If anything I will end up doing the engine rebuild myself if I spot an issue. I have no experience doing that but that’s what YouTube and this forum is for right?
     
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  13. Jun 19, 2025 at 10:41 AM
    #13
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    You can rent some of the tools you need from Autozone or Oreillys
     
  14. Jun 19, 2025 at 9:05 PM
    #14
    Taco0416

    Taco0416 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Update again*

    Engine is all tore down and getting cleaned. I degreased and power washer almost everything. Knock on wood everything was super smooth coming off. A few exhaust bolts came out but somewhat easy fix. Everything else went great. Heads came off and obvious head gasket failure on the number 6 cylinder from coolant to the outside back of the block which sounds like a common issue with this engine due to the exhaust running right next to the #6 cylinder making a sharp bend towards the rear of the vehicle. It also appears it broke inwards towards the #6 cylinder. No obvious wash of the cylinder but it did have a little coolant in the cylinder. Knock on wood hopefully this means the head/block aren’t warped?

    Now I’m scrubbing the old gasket off the block and would love any advice on how to get the old gasket off. I have been doing degreaser/WD40 with a green scrub pads which was recommended by Timmy the Toolman in his 5vzfe head gasket video. Any other recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

    Also just curious what the build up on the bottom of the valves are and any issues with it on there.

    Thank again for any and all help

    IMG_6301.jpg
    IMG_6303.jpg
    IMG_6304.jpg
    IMG_6307.jpg
     
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  15. Jun 26, 2025 at 3:42 PM
    #15
    Taco0416

    Taco0416 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So new problem.

    The head bolts didn’t come with new washers. It doesn’t look like anyone in town has or can find 3vze head bolts washers and doing a search online for head bolts for the 3vze none of them come with washers.

    I accidentally threw the old washers away with the old head bolts thinking the new set would have them.

    When asking google it says I need the head gasket washers and I found some on yota one which part number is 90201-11028

    So my question is do I buy 16 head bolts washers online or do without the head bolt washers?
     
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  16. Jun 26, 2025 at 7:14 PM
    #16
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    I dunno, id use washers. Prob has something to do with clearance in block...for the bolts
     
  17. Jun 26, 2025 at 7:15 PM
    #17
    2ndhandTacoman

    2ndhandTacoman Well-Known Member

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    You definately need the washers. Maybe ARP makes a suitable "universal" metric washer?
     
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