Questionaire for the all-knowing TW members

Parked the truck in the garage last night to do some work. Along the way I know I am going to have some questions as this is the first big set of projects I have taken on. I have another car I will be driving while I work.
My first steps are rebooting the CV axles, adding the ECGS bushing and new wheel bearings.
I was going to drain the front differential but both the fill plug and drain plug are stripped. I ordered the Lexus drain bolt and OEM fill plug.

so question 1:
How would y’all go about getting these out? I don’t know how to weld sadly. I would try to cut a groove and use a hammer and chisel to turn them. Keep in mind the car is on jack stands.
And question 2:
Obviously the front differential is leaking from the driver side. I have a new Diff seal but is there another seal that goes on the CV axle?

Question 3:
Are there any other seals I need?

 

Good news, I can still get traction on both the drain and fill plug, not quite circled yet. What if I cleaned and degreased them then stuck JB weld in them and let the hex sit overnight and harden. The only problem would then be I have to buy 2 more 10 MM hex sockets.
Edit: perhaps not as I could use a 10mm and a 3/8 hex. Both get traction.

 

1) Buy a hex with a 3/8ths (maybe go one size up, even standard?), knock it in with a hammer, gently, to get it all the way seated in the plug, and then use a 3/8ths ratchet to loosen it. You can also apply some heat using a plumbers torch to the case area around the plug before trying to loosen it, you want to heat the case not the plug. If you heat the plug it will get tighter.

2) Seals are specific to the location, you need the seal for the CV shaft. I believe its

$13 90311-47027 Toyota Genuine Parts - Seal, Type T Oil (90311-47027)

90311-47027

3) If you already have both CV axles off the truck, go ahead and do the seals on both sides of the diff, and any others related to what you are replacing/opening up. Get your seals from a toyota retailer, after market seals don't last as long, generally.

 

A sharp chisel and a small sledge hammer made quick work of them for me.

I also used a heat gun for a couple minutes before I started hitting it.

 

RE Front Diff plugs:

Same thing happened to me the first time I changed the fluid. Truck had ~60,000 mi on it at the time (bought it used). Super common issue, seems like the factory put them on too tight.

I ended up putting a big cut in it with a dremel w/ a cut off wheel - turned it into a big flat head screw essentially. Then took a chisel and hammer and beat it loose. It was a pain.

Make sure to get new plugs before you remove them and don't over-tighten them when you put them back in or you'll have the same issue next time.

 

I’m worried the monthes of oil residue will turn it into a fireball the moment I hit it with a torch.

 

Clean it off with some brake cleaner.

I'd try it without heat first though. Once I got a good angle on it with a hammer and a chisel it started spinning in the right direction pretty easily from what I remember.

 

Good recommendations above.
You've got this !

 

@Bishop84

 

Not sure if your aware of this... there's a Lexus plug for the fill also.
https://adventuretaco.com/a-front-d...EvsimdvyI9Ee1znUrqvnx4FvcNZsw2uU5Ayaq0YIkNgri

 

I was not thank you
I’ll order that.

 

Getting a good angle and generating enough force from under the car is harder than I expected
I’m free all day though

 

Bash the fill and drain plug square on.

I use a small ball peen against the plug, then hit the ball peen with a larger hammer.

Put down cardboard on top of the blanket to soak any stray oil.

Only the axle seal is needed. The hub has a seal but rarely needs to be changed.

 

I WORK with saltwater hydraulic diesel mechanics (accounting) and they told me a trick is cold chisel strike a notch in the bolt, then do what you said and use same chisel or flat head and strike it loose

 

That is what I’m trying currently, I wanted to cut a slot to make it easier but I only have 4.5 inch cutting discs with my angle grinder so I can’t get in there without contacting other parts. And I recently broke my last metal jigsaw blade.

 

I can’t say I completely understand. Place the ball peen against the plug then hit it with another hammer. But for what purpose? To help break it loose then go in with the chisel method?

 

strike the notch with a cold chisel, a sharp one. then use a flathead or chisel at a much different angle, and hammer strike it loose in reverse thread direction

 

i got mine free with wd40 then i set allen clean and struck the 3/8 drive wrench with a mallet and i broke it free. the key is i knew i had the allen in well oriented

some people might suggest hammering a torx drive similar or one side larger in there and then crack it with a hammer (i havent had this work too often for me on larger hardware)

stuff like that can be a pia, good luck lol

 

I have been hammering at it for quite a bit now. I got a notch going them got a good angle, I’m using a sledge hammer and it have not budged one bit. I am sure I am going the right direction too.

Can I use a propane torch to heat the bottom?
Edit:3 minutes later I got pissed off and started going ham. Bolt gave right up.

 

Alright experts, next question.
The front diff has been left for longer than it should have. The oil leak has caused it to probably be low on fluid. As it was draining I noticed a bunch of very fine particles, almost to a paste, accumulated on the newly hammered out drain plug. I guess expected for the time it was left.

next thing I noticed was a slight shimmer in the diff fluid, also normal for diffs? I know it’s a death sentence for engine oil.

I dragged a magnet through the oil and these are the largest particles I bought out.

what do y’all think, is my diff fine? Should I do a short interval change? Should I pump some fluid through now and “rinse it out”?
Or
Should I fill my diff with gasoline for extra horsepower?