URBAN.OPS PreRunner to 4X4 build & journal

Cycled front(removed the spring of the shock) and rear suspension(left main leaf only with spacer underneath) and ended up removing 1.75” from the fender and 1.5” from the flare.

 

Installed 1.25” spidertrax spacer since I’m running OEM uca on purpose and the tires rub on front portion of uca and slightly on the frame by the bumpstop area. After that I went to my Aligment spot for rest of the tires installation and Aligment. Old school dudes that have machine but obviously don’t use on modified suspension due to the machine wanting to run factory numbers and me having already a crazy set up in the rear. These MF’rs have my business for life. County brake and Aligment in Montclair ftw. They know their stuff.

 

I was waiting for the bilstein 7100 to restock with my provider and never did so I opted for Fox 14” paired with BAMF(@JLee ) shock towers to finish up my rear squishy combo. Bummed that there were no BAMF stickers in the package, Boooh!

in those pictures I have about 2.75 inches of droop and about 2” of tuck. Nothing makes contact. Extended my bumpstop area about 1.8”

 

Secured and ARB front locker, Nitro 4.56 kit and air compressor. Soon to be installed by Almax4x4 Garage in Mxli, Baja.

https://youtube.com/shorts/cGvYhT3nwSE?feature=share

 

Sup boys we are FR/RR locked.

Nitro gear 4.56 and

$1,212 ARB RD121 Air Locking Differential

ARB RD121 front locker. As you can tell I moved around the OEM buttons.

 

By the way I did the air compressor, front clam, rear 3rd member install and electrical work. ALMAX, set the gears.

https://youtube.com/shorts/AeWQixxkf4I?si=KcOv__XrclVK2hxC

 

Epic build

 

You still running stock upper control arms? I’m revisiting mine after going with SPC and going through a couple ball joints and bad bushings now. I wish I had kept the OEM ones.

 

Correct sir, still on stock UCA’s. Will be making some changes and I might be required to upgrade but I really don’t think so because I’m still at the 1.5-2” lift.

 

Wow I just realized I have not updated the gang on the current driveline mod, I’ll say the most important thing when you mess around in the rocks it’s proper action control and prevent driveline shock. Pulled the trigger on the NWF EcoCrawler(received new version design and the little longer shift rod a couple of weeks after). Did not consider any other options due to have messed in the past with the noisy, leaky, overpriced adaptor on adaptor on adaptor on adaptor BS or the hype over portals with retarded prices. Anyway, picked up a J pattern VF2 spade top shift case for 150$ (a little dirty on the outside, squeaky clean on the inside for a total of 50$), ordered a stock spade J-shifter from eBay, and a shift knob out of an GX for the H-N-L pattern and went to town. Current gearing put me at 110:1 for crawl ratio aka “the sweet spot”. And obviously the ability to select between 2.73:1 or 6.6:1 from the t-case depending on the terrain conditions.



Truck crawls up or down on anything and the control is superb, I can do 80mph with the quiet chain driven cases and no mess on my garage floor.

Major win from the Canada boys

 

Was looking to upgrade my front suspension. And wanted to get the best bang for the buck. I have installed for my customers all shocks brands and models of and for me it was clear. That I wanted to do an IBP shocks. So from the get go I was on the look for some TRD Pro black bottom Fox Shocks. @ill ay had a clean set with the Westcott designs bottom collar and top spacer kit. Had to recompress and reposition the spring end towards the inside to prevent contact with UCA at full droop and set the top hat spacer aside. Installed them and the truck sits a the height. Needed with the quality of ride I was looking for. Thank you for your service Bilstein 5100’s your extended travel was highly appreciated.

 

Awesome guy and thanks for the shirt as it's been my go to around the house wear.

 

Hooyah!