ABS Delete

Has anyone successfully deleted the ABS module in their truck? I am planning to delete mine as I only use truck for offroad and module needs to be replaced which is costly.

This is the info I have right now:
Run one line from master cylinder to a T then to each front caliper so that they each receive full pressure. Run one line to the rear with a proportioning valve somewhere in that line. Make sure the thread on the fittings is correct (10mm x 1.0). They will be the ones with the olive drab color.
The controller will just end up taking up space under hood, goes for a little over a grand at the dealer, unload it and use the $$$ for something more fun!
You might have to bleed your proportioning valves also if I remember correctly, it's been awhile.

 

There's two lines that come off the master, they each power a diagonal LF/RR and RF/LR which feeds into the ABS module.

You would take each line, add 2 proportioning valves, then tie it into each respective brake line front and rear. Importance being put on keeping line length equal, but with the ABS pump removed it wouldnt be too hard.

 

Is pulling the ABS fuse an option? That's how I used to disable mine.

 

I can disable the ABS that way but the module is leaking or something internally.

 

or


Honestly just leaving the dead ABS unit won't hurt anything, just disconnect it.

 

So I just need to find a proportioning valve that is full power to one outlet and adjustable for the other

 

If you are disconnecting hard lines -- hydraulically bypassing the ABS pump -- route the rear feed line through the proportioning valve, then out from the P valve to a tee, and out from the tee to the rear brakes.
Repeat for the front brakes, but do not use a P valve.

The P valve is only needed to balance front/rear brake power -- the PROPORTION of power going to the front and to the rear.

 

Partial labeling because I am in the middle of labeling it (is how I stumbled across this thread)

 

You are literally describing needing only a single P valve.

"Full power" is direct feed, no P valve.

 

The reason to route the rear through the P valve, rather than the front, is that the rear (drum) needs LESS volume than the front (disc), and a P valve works by REDUCING the volume passing through it.

If you have front and rear disc, no need for a P valve. All lines need equal volume.

 

Do this, with the following changes:
Swap your LF and LR.
Delete front proportioning valve.

 

I think the point of left front and right rear going together was for redundancy if one of the lines doesn’t have pressure you can still stop

 

I used 2 T's and no p-valve. I was fighting other brake issues so maybe the valve wasn't useful for me? I now have a Tundra brake primary (master) cylinder and booster and still no proportioning valve. No issues. I thought the plug to the back of the abs module was needed but when I checked it was unplugged for who knows how long. But, my speedometer is getting signal direct from the transfer case.

Ignore the dryer vent...I had to pass smog and needed the air hose to the fender...dumb ass inspector.

 

I’ll try this first. Did you need longer lines or just used stock lines?

 

Great theory if you're maintaining stock configuration.

Unable to work if you're hydraulically bypassing the ABS pump.

Rear drum brakes require vastly less volume of brake fluid to engage (ever notice the size of the pistons of a drum brake cylinder compared to that of a disc brake caliper? Yeah- that). If one is going to use a P valve to compensate for this difference, then the P valve needs to be spliced into BOTH rear brake lines.

I suppose one could add one P valve to each of the rear brake lines and maintain the cross-redundancy, but you would need to make sure each P valve is adjusted exactly the same. And of course you would be spending twice as much money and twice as much time as necessary to do it.

The easiest, cheapest, and frankly still safest way to accomplish this is to put the rears on one P valve and tee the two lines off the output, and put the fronts on a tee without a P valve.

But what would I know. I've only been driving with this exact setup for three years.

 

My understanding is that the Tundra MC is for front and rear discs, meaning no P valve needed.
Since we're adapting it to a truck that has rear drum front disc, and we're bypassing the ABS pump that has the P valve incorporated (or is it the stock MC?), a P valve will be needed.
The good news is that adding a P valve can be a net-zero install: it can be adjusted to zero compensation, basically eliminating its purpose. But it does give one the ability to dial in the front/rear brake bias if needed.

In my case (T4R front disc upgrade with Tundra booster + MC), I needed the P valve. It's adjusted maybe 30% at most.

 

All stock lines, just tweaked them around carefully to match up. That's why the long all thread for a mount (temporary for now).

 

I am going to take one line off the MC to a p valve then a T to back brakes. And the other line to a T and to front brakes.

 

This is 100% the right way to do it.