What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Well, I put the damn spark plug seals in backwards, that was probably 5 years ago.

Actually held up pretty well all things considered, by the time I did the job a couple weeks ago everything was coated in oil, needed 3 cans of engine degreaser to clean off the heads, block, steering rack, skids, bell housing, total mess.
Top end looks pretty damn good for 345,000 miles

 

After 18 year of beating this shit out of Frank and then getting hit by a drunk a few months ago it was finally time to start getting Frank back into fighting shape. Hopefully getting some paint throw on in the next few days.





Patch panel I cut off a wrecked Tacoma, had to replace where the axle and tire mashed the bedside.

 

Fun times sandblasting these knuckles for about an hour and change. Primed them. Now they are ready to be dropped off at the machine shop for new bearings, backing plates, and upper ball joints.

OEM UBJs before anyone asks...

 

Those look amazing. Cleaned up nice.

 

Never too late to refurbish the frame and suspension components! Only fair seeing as how its getting a fresh paint job.

 

Better a late response than never?

I saw the switch in an LC build somewhere, found the PN and PNs for the plug and pigtail. I pulled the clock out and CAD modelled the clock mounts and then figured out how the switch mounts. So, it's just a little 3D printed clock blank with an LC locker switch hole in it.

I'll see if I can find a better picture of the print, but here is a better picture of the switch in place.

 

Rusty bolts have left the chat. Sandblast everything all day

 

Finally installed replacement front and rear bumpers and lights.

 

Please say more about these "moon clips" (source, PN) as I will be doing my valve covers soon.

Thanks,

Mike

 

I just wanted to toss this in here as reference but today I learned that you can use any 4wd tacoma extra cab or double cab frame for a frame replacement and it is pretty much backwards compatible minus two things (see below).

1. Their is a slight difference between the 2.7 frame engine mounts and 3.4 but they can moved or adjusted depending on engine choice.

2. Rear Cab and Bed Mounts have to be shifted forward a couple inches.



For anyone who may be wondering but I have a frame rail as pictured from a 4x4 Extra Cab cant remember the year off hand I think its pre 2001 (not double cab) and it is placed on top of my 2002 Double Cab Frame that I'm using.

The two front body mounts are identical on both and in the same spots so good news is no need to move those around.


However the rear cab mounts and bed mounts will have to be shifted forward a couple inches as shown in the picture.


Otherwise everything else lines up identical including the cross members.

 

What phone mount is that?

 

The half-moons at the front and rear of the head. You can almost always reuse your existing ones, just make sure to clean them good & give them a good bead of FIPG/RTV.

 

off-roam. Thing is a tank - won’t ever want (or need) another in my lifetime.

 

You also need to replace the cam shaft plugs in the back.

https://www.yotashop.com/camshaft-p...-5vz-oem-camshaft-plug-1995-2004-11188-62010/Camshaft Plug- Toyota 4Runner, T100, Tacoma & Tundra V6 3.4L, 5VZ OEM Camshaft Plug (1995-2004) 11188-62010

 

This video is extremely helpful on this topic as well. Has all the parts and numbers and a pretty decent walk through: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uodVoVLTro0&ab_channel=AustinNiemela

 

Deleted the swaybar.
It does lean a bit more going around corners, but offroad it made a huge difference, way more flex in the front.
One of the bracket ears was broken off anyway, I wonder how long it's been like that.

 

Its been a while since I laid under the truck and inspected the reality of what this frame has become. For reference please see my second post on the build thread showing that the bed forward was restored via rust repair with a new frame section.

Flash forward 5 years later and the rust has only gotten worse and the area that was patched in is now completely rusted through. I live in NJ and barely drove it in the winter as this is my second car. Chassis paint was used prior and it was absolutely garbage, DID NOT HOLD UP (clearly).

I cant stress enough the importance of rust prevention on these vehicles.

The next phase of the project will be moving the cab and bed mounts to the appropriate spots and fixing any little rust on the new donor frame to prevent this from ever happening again.

In the meantime while I'm waiting on some OEM parts to arrive for the frame, I took the time to spray everything and anything relevant to this swap with WD 40 and CRC Power Lube. Went through both cans. If dropping this car into a pool of that stuff was an option I would have done that. I'm going to be repeatedly treating it with that combination in hopes it makes my life easier down the line.

Everything from middle of the frame back was anti seized before installation 5 years ago. Hopefully that little extra pays off now.

I also learned my rear differential is leaking fluid but not sure exactly where. My guess is its got a pinhole rust spot and its seeping out of the bottom or from the dif cover area.

 

Wow, that just looks....terrible.
So glad I live in Tucson, where the sun just destroys paint and weatherstripping.

 

Refreshed the entire front suspension. Upper control arms and inner ball joints are Moog due to significant price difference. Tie rod ends, LCAs, LBJs, and UBJs are OEM. New bolts too and LBJ dust boots. New Moog springs and Bilstein 5100s all around. Steering rack and sway bar poly bushings. Tooks four days by myself. Test drive was perfect. Alignment in the morning.

 

How many inches of lift is that? Im thinking of going Bilstein 5100s with OME springs with an add a leaf and some 33s. Not sure if they will clear though...