Long Travel BS Thread

Ugh that sucks....

 

Technical question: so I’m on a cross country trip. Rear drive shaft just exited the chat yesterday doing about 75mph coasting down a hill.

My rear setup is unit bearings/full float with ECGS drive flanges.

When I pulled to the side of the highway I saw that the passenger side drive flange assembly and the axle was about 18” or so popped out of the axle tube.

What I think happened: spiral snap ring for the drive flange is worn out from reuse, axle pushed everything out the hub, which when I applied throttle down the hill after initially losing power, sent the rear drive shaft at 10million rpm which it couldn’t take and ended in catastrophe.

This sound plausible?

When I inspected the undercarriage, it looked like if you just deleted the drive shaft past the slip yoke portion. The u-joint was still there at the pinion with its u-bolts, it was just missing the 2 caps on the driveshaft side. It looked as if the 2 u-joint retainer clips just yeeted themselves, the shaft came off and then dropped out of the yoke. Where it went? Do not know. Somewhere out there on i90 in eastern Washington.

To add to the equation: I picked up a salvage yard rear driveshaft, installed. Put the ECGS drive flange assembly back in place, got about 2-3 hrs down the road and while taking a tight turn in a drive through it popped out again. Today I Jerry-rigged some bolts/fender washers to essentially retain the cap to the wheel and drove 8 hrs with no issues.

Gonna have a good shop do a full look over but that’ll have to wait til next week. Any other thoughts?

 

Adding to my above post. I notice in tighter turns I’m getting a jumpy feeling in the steering wheel when it goes back to center that wasn’t there before. Could binding of the rear axle stub in a worn out unit bearing cause that?

current temp “fix” to keep everything together just in case

 

Been chasing a weird vibration for over a month….last night my radiator sprung a leak. Swapping out the radiator I found this.



Miraculously the vibes have disappeared.

 

I have the complete assembly with the clutch that you can have.. removed when I did the E-fan conversion

 

Damn….already bought a new one

 

Well to quote my posts. I think I dun goofed. Assembled my drive flanges wrong and threaded the bolts through the spacer and the slug. Whoops.

 

mine are run by a ecumasters pdm that’s mounted under the dash.

 

Bought this little panel off facebook for 30 bucks. Perfect fit for the Auxbeam panel and also has a plug for my radio mic.....comes with cord that extend it to your radio. Pretty good deal IMO. All 3d printed and well thought out as far as how it attaches. Metal backing plate tapped for bolts and countersunk screws holding the panel portion with nubs that drop into existing holes the OEM panel used.

 

IP65 spaghetti

 

what fenders fit 35"? what about the less extreem 3" type? e.g. fiberwerx 3" instead of the 6". Would they fit a 35" on a +3.5?

 

“Fit” is all in your definition of it. Are you looking for full tire coverage throughout the full cycle? If so, glass will depend on how wide your truck is compared to stock. So take in mind LT width, wheels, tires, etc.

I run heavily trimmed 3” glass on mine and love that my tires are wider than the body for when I am out in the rocks while still giving some tire coverage.

 

Anyone running a fabbed driveshaft center support bearing crossmember?

Mine was tweaked when my rear drive shaft imploded. Wondering if I mineswell have a shop make something new versus unfuck the OEM.

 

Are those Patagonias 37x12.5? They look skinnier than that

 

Yep.

 

Messaged the same on the gram but for anyone else interested, I’ve been using these for a bit, they custom code it to how you want to use it.
For me it was just a simple 2 channel input/output relay. solid state, fully potted, sealed moles connector.
everything you want, except for the mounting holes are tiny, and no one seems to know this brand, and they aren’t exactly off the shelf as they program to order, which is good and bad.

https://inpowerelectronics.com/product/programmable-module-with-2-inputs-and-2-15a-outputs/Programmable Module with Two Inputs and Two 15A Outputs | InPower

 

yeah but can they take the inrush current to run big fans? My spal fans on my Ron Davis radiator have like 75 amps of inrush current, when I was on fuses I had to run 35 amp fuses or they would blow during startup of the fans.

 

Dont quote me on this but I think you can have them pwm the startup to however you want to soften it up too.
The two channels can be tied together in parallel as well, with different options for input triggers for example if you’d prefer a ground signal instead.

 

I swapped out the spals on my Ron Davis to Steele fans. Slightly better CFM and built in soft start.

 

I use a Ligenfelter PWM Fan Controller, has a soft start. The Fan main Power Wire isn't Fused, but its on a Self Resetting Circuit Breaker.. been installed for a few years now with zero issues.

My Trans Fan is controlled through my Transmission Fluid Temp Gauge through a neg output to a Relay.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/monkeyproofs-misadventures.697489/page-7#post-27835139

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/monkeyproofs-misadventures.697489/page-7#post-28053735