Need Help Wiring ARB Brushless Compressor to CH4x4 Switch

Hello everyone.

I installed an ARB brushless compressor and am trying to figure out how to connect one particular wire. I found another thread, but it was for the non-brushless compressor. There are some differences in the wiring as the new one uses an "Error Detection PCB," which I'll come back to. Like the other member who posted the other thread, I too want to wire it to a CH4x4 switch instead of the ARB switch. I'm running into one problem tho...there is a light blue wire that connects the PCB to the switch. Where should I connect this wire (LT-BLU) on my 4-wire switch?

The other member figured out the following wire connections:
CH4x4 > ARB
Green = Red/Yellow
Red 1 = Red
Red 2 = Blue/White
Black = Black

 

Does your compressor work without the Light Blue wire connected? My initial thought is it might. Section 5 of the manual details some flashing codes that are available on the supplied ARB switch - I believe it is this Light Blue wire that provides that function to the ARB switch.

Why the hell are you not using the ARB switch?

See sections 5.1.2, 5.1.3 and 5.1.4 all mention flashing codes on the isolation (on/off) switch. The only way I can see this happening is by the Light Blue wire either being supplied power or grounding a circuit within the switch to light (flash) the internal LED. But what do I know.

 

Number 2 Aka red 1

 

Because the ARB switch doesn't fit the factory switch holes.

 

Connecting the Light Blue to the RED1 on the switch was my initial thought too, until I read through the ARB manual. And may still be correct, if the unit does not operate without the Light Blue connected anywhere.

 

did you get the ARB switch with the kit?

sounds like it's time for breaking out the ohm meter to see what the light blue wire does in different switch locations. or benefit the forum, and tear down the switch to see what/where it goes.

 

The arb manuals kinda confusing. I have a single compressor unit and setting it up was tricky. I pretty sure I used non oem looking switch, maybe the arb switch, but it’s under the seat and fairly unseen.
Did you bench test it at all?

 

The light blue wire looks to control the lower light on the ARB switch. Your ch4x4 switch only has one light. You could probably ignore the light blue wire or use it for the switch's ground (black) to get the error detection functions.

 

Light blue must be a controlled ground because pin 7 is the ground for the lower switch light. Pin 6 is that light's source.

 

Looks to me like it supplies power to the error pcb so it should be tied to switch output. The switch really only needs power in/power out. The dash light and gnd connections are only for the switch illumination leds. The error pcb then determines whether it’s ok to trigger the compressor relays on. Either a thermistor on the pcb or the pressure switch connection could interrupt that signal. Maybe other qualifiers like sufficient voltage as well.

 

Thanks for the responses! I received this from ARB...

"Hello,

The light blue wire will be connected to the ground side of the switch. The red wire that runs to the pressure switch will be run to the positive side of the switch."

 

Also,

Seems that the CH4x4 switch takes 3 amps max and the orange wire needs minimum 8 amps, so looks like I'll need a relay.

 

If you have a meter measure the current on that Red wire first before making up your mind on the relay. Many times manufacturers over spec requirements. If you are only using the air compressor without any solenoids to power the ARB locking differentials I believe the current will be much much less.

Their instructions on the light blue wire is questionable. When I get back to the shop I will elaborate.

 

i'm highly suspicious of that. there's absolutely no functional reason to be running 8-10A into a dash switch, especially with a compressor that appears to have built in relay's for motor control.

and an alternate method for the blue wire.

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$7 Vrabocry 10pcs 5mm LED Diode Light Diffused Frosted Round Lens with 8mm Panel Mount 12V Universal Flush Dash Board Indicator Panel Socket Lights for Cars Boats lamp Bulb (Green 10pcs)

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if the connection method described in post #8 is accurate, the ARB blue wire would connect to the led's black wire, and the led's red wire would connect to the CH4x4 green wire.

 

Here's the link to the compressor install instructions: https://store.arbusa.com/content/CKBLTA12 INST.pdf

For clarification:

"NOTE: The desired outlet should supply positive 12VDC, be fused at a minimum of 8 amps, and be live only when the vehicle ignition key is in either the ‘ACC’ position or in the ‘ON’ position."

 

I don’t believe we, or specifically me, didn’t believe that ARB said 8 Amps. Just that it was inconceivable that the winch control would require that much current to operate. I measured an older ARB solenoid today and it took slightly over 1/2Amp, so two of those (for the Differentials) and the compressor circuitry I very much doubt would take much more than 2-2.5 Amps total. I have half a dozen switches and three solenoids in my possession to fool around with.

Do you have the capability to measure current?
Is the winch installed to do some investigative testing?
Do you wish to have the “blue” wire functions of an error notifying flashing light?
Do you have an ARB locking diff?

Shimshack
Soundman
and myself are the only ones that have anywhere near the correct information, but none of us are sitting in front of your compressor.

EDIT: Checked my older dual compressor manual and it too says 8 Amps. Definitely no reason for it to need 8 Amps.

 

yeah, the majority of relays/solenoids, whatever one wants to define them as, typically will have only around 0.1-0.5A draw on activation. so assuming one was installing ARB's full diagram, with dual air lockers, and a dual motor compressor, one is looking at 0.5A x 4 relays, which should work out to a roughly 2A total max load for the switch gear. we could even go crazy and assume that the error controller board consumes a whole 1A, an we're still at 3A max.