Best rust dissolver and rust preventative

Hey guys any good recommendations for rust dissolvers and rust preventatives ?

It’s going to be for my undercarriage,

I heard about evaporust, por-15 and rp-342

 

Wool Wax

 

Lot's of products.
I prefer Boeshield T-9, but I don't think it removes rust.

 

Is run this by Grok and ChatGPT

 

Remove as must rust as you can (wire brush, etc). Then use something like Metal prep (POR15 product) to neutralize rust.... then paint with something like POR15 to protect metal.

Once that is done, each year apply something like Fluid Film, Woolwax, or Krown to prevent rust.

Key is to remove rust when you see it and annually apply a rust preventor. Doing it once is better than nothing, but to be really effective, needs to be done annually.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-about-mystery-material.824809/#post-29579412

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cliche-por15-questions.831902/#post-29812260

 

Cosmoline RP-342 is the best rust prevention spray, adheres to the metal unlike fluid film

 

To remove rust I use a wire wheel on a drill and hand wire brush for those hard to reach spots. I then use Ospho rust neutralizer.My choice for under coating is either Amsoil heavy duty metal protector or Wool wax.

 

Do you ever google anything first or do you just come here and start a new thread for every little question that pops into your head??

 

You know… you could also just skip over the thread.


Op - for rust inhibitors, I like and use Amsoil HD metal protect but Cosmoline is great too. Lay it on thick and get a 360 degree wand for the boxed sections

 

Thanks man,

 

Is it always better to paint after removing rust or can u just spray wit the rust preventing liquid

 

My experience with POR15 has been mixed. It’s really good if the substrate is solid and you don’t have any holidays in the coating. Any slight hole that allows moisture under it will be trapped and rust. I coated rockers on a Dodge truck I had and there was a pin hole in the metal. The rust grew exponentially and there was an only thing holding it together was the POR15. I’d just saturate the metal with a rust inhibitor of your choice and skip the paint but that’s me.

 

To help prevent rust, you need to minimize the exposure of the metal to oxygen and water. Personally I think metal that has had the rust removed (physical and then chemical) and then painted and then a rust proof applied , will last longer than bare metal with just rust proofing.

Painted rust free metal will stay rust free until the paint is scratched or damaged in some way. Applying a rust inhibitor over painted metal will provide protection where paint fails or can't get into cracks, seems etc.

Here is a pic of my 2010, having lived its life in Canada. I painted the frame when I bought it new and have had it rust proofed each year. You see a few spots where the paint I applied didn't adhere to the original frame paint, but not too worried about that as the annual rust proofing addresses that issue. Only down side of this method is that I get very dirty when I work on the truck. I recently replaced the exhaust system and applied high temp paint to that, in the hopes of minimizing the rust on the flanges.

 

You'll get a lot of opinions on this.
I've used RustZilla and have had good results. It's a rust converter. If it were me (my frame is so oily now, I don't think I'd get paint to stick to anything), I'd wire brush off the really loose stuff, slather rust converter onto the rusty areas (usually the welds), let it dry a couple of days then hit it with some satin RustOleum. After that dries for another week or so, hose it down with Fluid Film, Krown or something oily/waxy. Then just keep up with the prevention products.
I like to do this while it's still really hot outside, so the oils can wick into the sandwiched areas of the frame.
From time to time, I'll touch it up with some of the cheap WD-40 like stuff from Dollar General. It works well on leaf springs, etc.
Again, you'll get a lot opinions on this.

 

I also give a shot of something thin into the weep holes on the pinch seams on the rockers, doors and cab corners.
From what I've read on the internet, this may be a problem IF you ever need to have paint and bodywork done, but I'll take my chances.

 

What about the rp-342 when u apply it doesn’t it do both; paint it and also prevent the rust at the same time ? If I apply this product would it still be necessary to paint it over ?

 

Mad respect to you guys in Canada I heard that it’s almost impossible to prevent rust out there…

 

And what did you about the other areas besides the frame that you couldn’t really paint; smaller bolts, brake area, smaller clamps etc ??

 

It seems like it’s going to be almost impossible for me to completely remove all the rust/corrosion from the under carriage there’s so many small bolts and nuts scattered all over.. when I get back under there I’ll take a picture