One 10" Sub Vs Two 8" Subs ???

I have a 2019 Toyota Tacoma with a stereo receiver being the Entune II and I listen to a variety of music genres ranging from country to classic rock to hard Rock to heavy metal little bit of hip Hop old school hip hop that is some trance music and just good old rock and roll music.

I am wondering if I should get one 10-in subwoofer or should I get two 8-in subwoofers for my Tacoma?

Any input regarding which one would be a better option for me. I know this is going to come down and boil down to preference but I do like a lot of low end but I also would like it to be very responsive.

So I guess one of the questions would be would 2 8 in subwoofers have plenty enough low-end for the genres of music that I like to listen to without feeling like wow I should have went with one 10 inch and I would have got that little extra lower frequency?

Thanks everybody!

 

two 8s will have more surface area than a single 10 and will be louder, they will also be a bit faster (not by much).
I went with a single 10 because they didnt have shallow 8s in the brand I wanted. But if I did it again, I would go two 8s.

 

I've never heard two 8's. But I had one 8" in my Tacoma and it was very weak. Now have a nice single 12 in my Land Cruiser and it slaps too hard. For space, money and weight savings, I'd go for a nice single 10. My kicker compR 12" is the best single sub I've had. I had an L7, L5, cvr, Rockford p2, etc.

 

I am considering buying this from OEM Audio Plus.

Here is the link: https://oemaudioplus.com/product/toyota-tacoma-dbl-cab-16-base/

The one I think about getting is the reference series which has everything needed for my Tacoma and I'm just like I said before I'm not sure if I want to do a one 10" or two 8" I'm guessing I'd get plenty of low-end bass out of two 8". I'm hoping that I would.

Thoughts???

 

(1) 13.5" sub in a sealed -- not ported -- enclosure and a 600W monoblock amp dedicated to it.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693256/JL-Audio-CS113TG-TW5v2.html

this one fits fine in my Access Cab, taking up half of one of the rear seats.

Even ten 8" subs powered by 300W EACH is still not going to sound as good as a single 12" or larger high-powered sub. The 8-inchers can't resonate as low as a larger sub.

 

A ported box will help a lot with two 8" subs. Ported will help either way actually.

I would check out the loaded and powered 8" enclosures from JL Audio. (requires removing plastic cubbies) If you want thump on a budget check out Skar Audio's knock off version of the JL stealthbox and this ported 8" from rockford fosgate.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P3008P/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-8P.html

https://www.skaraudio.com/products/...-double-cab-L-VS-1X10TOY-TACOM-2016-UP-DBLCAB

Skar Audio Single 10" Loaded Subwoofer Enclosure Compatible with 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab Trucks

https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-Subwoofer-Enclosure-Compatible/dp/B0CDZS881P?th=1

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13628LW3V3/JL-Audio-CP208LG-W3v3.html
with amp...
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693331/JL-Audio-ACP208LG-W3v3.html

 

Yeh obviously porting is extremely popular for increasing overall bass output, and in some cases allowing lower resonant frequency / deeper bass -- but always at the penalty of some loss of "tightness".

Having an open port means that in certain frequency bands the speaker is unavoidably "loose" because air is rushing out from under it so quickly (through the open port) that the driver overshoots and loses control relative to the waveform it is being asked to reproduce --> sloppy bass.

 

FWIW, I have the JL stealth box with a kicker key 500.1. It's running 300w rms at 2 ohms. Also using kicker key 200.4 with focal rse-165 fronts and rcx-165 rears with second skin damplifier pro 2mm on inner doors and back cab wall.

It's not overpowering bass, but it's not worthless either. Sound quality is definitely there with the keys dsp.

 

That's the misconception imo. Plenty of ported setups sound clean. It just depends on what one prefers. A while back I was contemplating a custom ported box with dual 8's and ditching the stealthbox with the single 10". I never bothered though.

 

I'll add the Tacoma is limited on space, so there's only so many cubic feet of space to work with. I think a ported setup would help maximize that. Do what you want, listen to a few setups if you can. If you're not happy swap it for something else.

 

I've got the RF powered 8" behind the passenger seats in my truck and it exceeded my expectations. I mostly listen to country and rock and 90's rap. It has no problem making you feel the lows in the live version of Hotel California. Similarly Stapleton and Timberlake's Say Something.

If the Tacoma wasn't so loud and acoustically shitty my set up is better sounding than the HK in wife's mercedes.

 

Pure baloney.
I've been building pro-sound subwoofers for decades and this is just flat out incorrect.
300 watts RMS applied to the voice coil of an 8-inch sub will melt that coil into goo.

I have over 1,500 drivers in my database.
These range from 4" to 24".

The Fs ("resonance") of the bare driver is just the starting point in the design.
The choice of sealed or vented enclosure changes this.
In a vented box, with frequencies below the tuning point (resonance) the driver behaves as it operating in free air.
It is VERY easy to over excurse the cone and trash the driver.

For starters, the lowest required frequency should be determined.
Next, comes "how much box size can you tolerate"
Then comes "cabin gain" if used as a vehicle subwoofer.

If the OP is interested in DIY, he can fabricate an odd shaped box of the correct volume to fit his truck space.
This should be a sealed box for easier construction.

Vented boxes are far more difficult to build accurately.
One or more prototypes are required, if the builder wants to truly hit the design parameter.
Vented boxes driven at high power require large vent areas to avoid chuffing noise in the vent.
This means a long duct, a recalculation of the internal volume, and a prototype (one or more) to iron out the design.

For a vehicle subwoofer, the correct driver with an EBP=50 or less (sealed box) makes good sense.
These can really reach down low by using cabin gain.
As with all subwoofers, the lower they go, the less efficient they are, and the more power they require.

Hoffman's Iron Law states: Low, Loud, Small.
You can pick any two and build to that.

 

Welp. Yeah I'm a bit out of my technical depth on this one.

That said, here's a higher-end JL 8" sub that easily handles 300W RMS:
https://www.jlaudio.com/products/8w7ae-3-car-audio-w7ae-subwoofers-92117

Looking at the specs for JL's recommended ported enclosure for that 8", it shows an F3 all the way down at 30 Hz..

Whereas the 13.5" diameter thin-profile JL sub I have, in the JL-designed/manufactured sealed, thin-wedge box, has an amazingly disappointing F3 of 41 hz: https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...ts/13tw5v2-2-car-audio-tw5v2-subwoofers-92182

(They don't publish the F3 or any other specs on the product page for the combined sub + sealed box PowerWedge product, you have to drill down into the specs on the separate web page for the bare 13.5" driver itself.)

I bought the 13.5" thinking "hell yeah, 13" sub is huge and it's going to hit deep compared to a 10" -- and, in practice, it seems to hit deep enough, and online reviews across multiple platforms (Amazon, crutchfield, etc.) are uniformly excellent for this sub.

So maybe there's an element of truck cabin resonance -- which is not mentioned or factored into JL's published specs for the driver or its thin-wedge sealed enclosure -- that is assisting low-end extension?

 

You are looking for “cabin gain” which is a big factor for car subs. This is a huge boost from the enclosed space and why sealed subs do so well on this environment. This extends bass response much lower than the same cab outside the vehicle.

JL Audio is one of the leaders in this market. I did not use them but used Rockford instead. RFR-2210 and RFR-2215 are very well made drivers with high power handling abilities.

 

I have 2 Audiomobile evo 10's in a sealed Mr. Marv box. They pound surprisingly well on 1100 watts and fit behind the rear seat. There is enough space for it without any real modification.

 

I got the Skar 10" stealth box its pretty decent

 

Used to have a 15 in my is300
Put 2 10s in my taco and it's perfect

 

Nice! I was looking at that box.. might have to upgrade

 

What box is this

 

Build Update: New Sub Setup Going In — Thoughts?

About to install the following in my '22 Tacoma Double Cab and wanted to get some feedback before I button it all up:

• Subwoofer: Rockford Fosgate T1S1-10 (10" shallow mount, 500W RMS @ 1Ω)
  
  
• Amp: Rockford Fosgate P500X1bd (matched at 500W RMS @ 1Ω)
  
  
• Enclosure: Skar Audio single 10" sealed box (passenger-side cubby fit)
  

What do you guys think? Anyone else run this sub sealed before going ported? Open to tips if you've already tuned something similar in the Tacoma platform.