37’s... Anyone crazy enough?

Finally off jackstands. Need to wire up the new windshield washer fluid reservoir, put the air box back and reassemble the interior and she’s done!

 

Only thing left to do is the washer fluid reservoir, tidy up the fender trim and clearance the rear. Got it aligned today and can’t really tell much of a difference in drivability aside from a little more body roll.

 

Probably a bit premature since I have only had the Kenda skinny 35x10.50R17 tires on for barely 1 year but I am always looking for what is next. I noticed that the Nitto Ridge Grappler comes in a 38x11.50R17 and was thinking this may be the next tire for me, maybe paired with a +2" long travel kit in the front.

 

That’s definitely a unique size. It’s pretty light too at 75 lbs. With plus 2s you definitely won’t have to do as much work as I did or the others to run those. I really liked those tires when I had 33s, did well in everything except for thick mud of course.

 

I'm doing a test fit with a 37 x12.50 x17 Yoko Geo mt.
I got the shock removed. How compressed can this bump stop actually get in real use? Have I compressed it enough or too much? Anyone that's done this before have advice? Here's a couple pictures of it compressed and not compressed.

 

Probably fairly compressed especially during a harsh impact.

I’m on the factory bumps in the front but when I tubed mine I kept jacking up the lower control arm until it started lifting the truck so I could get as much deflection out of the bump stop.

To also account for both control arm and cab mount bushing deflection which are nearly impossible to account for by just using a jack, I cut a few inches past full bump on everything.

In your case I think its worthwhile to compress the bump as much as possible and still cut back a little more. I came across a guy who had his truck tubed by a shop and they didn't quite take enough material out and he still slightly rubs on the upper fender.

Even after all this I'm also still slightly rubbing on the actual cab mount and I have a cab mount relocation and my lower cams maxed out. To fix that I either need to long travel the truck or get high caster LCA's.

 

For rubber or foam bumps I always assume they squish to zero, so till the arm hits the bolt head inside. and then account for deflection of everything so you need to cut past that point for sure

 

I jacked it up until it started to lift the truck but the bump did not flatten to zero.

 

If there’s any question about how much the bumps should compress you could always take them out and cycle and cut so you know for sure

 

I weighed my 35 vs 37. Total weight of wheel and tire plus a little weight for balancing.
Wheels-SCS Blaxe 10: 17x9 -38 offset
Yokohama Geolander Mt's
35/12.5/17- 92.2 lbs
37/12.5/17- 99.2

 

What wheel specs are you running? I’m on 17x8.5 -10 and not rubbing on the cab mount but I am hitting the frame and UCA at full lock. On hard hits I am def surpassing the limits of my bumpstop even with a 3/8th spacer. When I do my CMR I’ll do a 1” body lift as well to remedy it.



I will say the 37s were totally worth it. It doesn’t make the hard stuff easy but it makes the moderate stuff a cake walk. Less need to pick your lines carefully.

 

About the same, 17x8.5 -12, but they're more like a 17x9 as they're hybrid wheels being ran as beadlocks.

Another consideration is tires as most manufacturers don't run true to size and there's a bit of variance from one manufacturer to another. I have toyo mt's and they measure 36-1/4" at 30 psi.

A body lift should help a bit, if not entirely cure the rubbing up there. I also rub the frame but I did as well on 35's, I'm considering notching the frame and putting some of these frame notch plates in there.

If you're hitting the control arm and frame, you need spacers or more offset wheels. However if you add some, prepare for the rubbing in the fender areas to get worse and depending on how large of a spacer/offset you may potentially rub the firewall again where you tubed.

100% agree, it's a PITA but definitely worth it.

 

Yep, will definitely need to test run them to see if it’s worth the trade off, I definitely do not want to tub again and I’m only rubbing on the uca and frame at full lock, which I’ve taught myself not to do whenever possible. I’ll have to see if it’s worth notching the frame there or just eventually get long travel.