Manual transmission issue

Yeah probably. Or 4Lo / 2Lo

 

So yes, it’s not so bad that you are worried about burning the clutch or killing engine except in extreme situations, eg pulling a boat up a steep launch ramp.

 

Are you sure you aren't starting in 3rd gear? I say that kinda tongue in cheek, but that's literally what your symptoms sound like.

 

right, which is what the OP’s doing when the problem pops up.

 

I can agree with this. I wasn't suggesting gears/tires were the entire issue, just part of it (possibly, we have yet to hear what tires OP has).
Without any of us witnessing this in person it's hard to say exactly what the problem is. I know the OP said he played with all the buttons, but I am wondering still if in certain shituations, the traction control is still activating, which we all know how our truck's behave,,, power is cut. I think the TC isn't totally disabled unless the button is held down for a few seconds?

 

Traction control does not do anything unless a wheel is spinning.

 

What I interpreted is that he is having problems taking off in normal daily driving situations.

 

The 3rd gen Tacoma's need 4600 rpm to get max torque. That simply does not work with manual transmissions on hills or pulling loads. All trucks, by all manufacturers since the 1990's have had engines designed to work with automatic transmissions. Old school engines when manual transmissions were the norm got torque at 2000-2500 rpm. That's why so few manuals are made today. It's an afterthought by manufacturers.

 

The problem with you repeatedly peddling this on every manual transmission thread is that you don’t need max torque to get rolling. Yes, max torque is 4600 rpm. No, you don’t need it to get moving. It really sounds like OP is learning to drive a stick and probably also doesn’t know when to use 4L. If max torque were at 2-3k, it would still need better clutch management.

The industry pushes autos not because of how great they are at doing work, it is because they can control them and get better emissions out of them. You can build a manual to do anything an automatic can; they just won’t.

 

Correct
Again we’re not there, but if OP is revving up and releasing the clutch, there could be wheel spin.

 

You don't think 27 years of driving manual is enough practice?

 

Hi. OP here. I've been driving stick for 27 years.

I'm not gonna put it in 4L to get off the line at a stop sign.

It's not my clutch work. It's a mechanical issue.

 

Y'all. I'm not new to driving stick. Been at it for 27 years. I've had a lot of trucks, some of 'em heavy and some of 'em not. Some of 'em modded and some of 'em not. I've owned four Tacomas.

Not a single one has had this issue, except for this Gen 3.

Please stop it with the "OP just needs to practice using the clutch."

 

You're not alone, I too have had this happen while trying to start off uphill while pulling a heavy trailer (maybe 3500lbs). Only way forward is to smoke the clutch until you get enough speed for the engine to not die (or use low-range if not on a public road / don't need to go fast or far).

If I was to guess, the others above were likely meaning you just needing to get used to driving your 3rd-gen (not your stick driving skills altogether). Indeed, none of my past vehicles have been as likely to unexpectedly stall out if the RPM dips below a certain amount under a high torque load either (35 years w/stick here).

My assumption is this is something with the drive-by-wire throttle control (all my past vehicles had cable-actuated throttles). The ECM won't open it all the way (or will even shut it) while you're trying to command it to open further. This of course is completely counter to what you expect it to do, and so the stall happens.

Maybe a tune can fix this?

 

I appreciate the thoughtful response.
FWIW, I've been driving this truck for three years now, so it's not really a matter of getting used to the truck either.

A tune may b e in order.

 

I was driving on a somewhat steep dirt road recently at elevation and had to stop briefly.

Thinner air = less power, 3.5L = needs lots of RPMs, accumulator = inconsistent clutch feel sometimes

What helps me in these situations in 2WD is using the e-brake, really helps get the engine up to RPM without rollback meaning your momentum starts off forward instead of fighting gravity going backwards downhill a bit less. That and I need to do the ADM for a more responsive clutch.

 

I did the ADM and honestly, the clutch still feels pretty vague. I don't notice a ton of difference.

I do often drive at high elevation, so maybe that's a factor here...

 

From lots of time spent in Tahoe, I know Elevation does have an impact on the performance. Especially where it is weakest. (low revs).

On the highlighted text above, you have to get revs well above stall. Once on the edge, the motor will be hard pressed to get itself to higher revs since it will only be producing a tiny amount of HP/Torque. A stall is very likely at that point.

One approach I use is to get the clutch fully engaged and the wheels turning as early as possible. (the rev point will be load-dependent). Then lean on the gas to get more power and speed avoiding excessive clutch slip this way. Again, the point and revs needed to pull away as needed will depend on load. (Weight, grade, etc.)

Easy with an unloaded truck on the street, you can be fully engaged at just above idle, then power-up (gently) from there. More difficult with added load of course; as on steep grades / sandy soils / heavily loaded truck, etc.) .

Clutch slip is needed in some instances... you simply have to get to a point where you can access the horsies required to do the job...

 

2lo mod

 

it seems the 2LO harness is not available anymore