Anything Manufacturing - Small to Medium Scale Metal Work (CAD/CAM included!)

Dust mask for the win!

 

Have to force myself to stay in my seat while cutting

No need to babysit while cutting like I used to on my other table





It's also nice having moved to a bigger table since I can leave more steel on it now and not have to swap so often

 

Still have not moved anything not moved anything into the shop. So far , only been inside the one time when I found the construction debris. Last weekend Was the first time I felt like I had enough energy to even attempt to move anything. however, it decided to pour down rain all weekend, there was no way I am moving anything in the rain an risk things rusting. I am hopeful that this weekend I can at least get the welding equipment, drill press and bandsaw moved over along with the smaller tools and assorts supplies and materials.

the plasma table will most likely need to be taken apart to move, which needs to be done anyway to finish some welds on the frame, and paint and it will also give me a chance to finish sealing the leaks in the water pan.

the tool boxes, air compressor and work benches, along with the plasma table will need to go out on a trailer. which they have available for free use for move in.

The big silver lining to my recent health crisis, was that I have AFLAC critical care insurance, and the payout was much more than I expected. I am debating on a couple of pieces of large equipment I been wanting, but not sure I REALLY need right now.

 

@Pyrotech

If there's any advice I can offer, it's that I'd recommend using 3M Marine Adhesive (5200) for any and all joints and corners on your water bed.

While I'm not exactly cutting stuff every day, I do keep my water table more than half full at all times. At 60" x 60" and over 2-3" of water height, that's over 40 gallons and that's shared between a two-piece pan held together with bolts and 3M sealant in between.

Table is still 100% dry and it hasn't leaked at all anywhere underneath. Just make sure to give it a proper 4-7 days to fully cure before filling it up at all. It'll remain tacky for several days, so definitely be patient with it.

 

I am very thankful my job has 2 fiber lasers to cut this.

 

Must be nice!

 

I generally won't say something unless I intend to do it but if fiber laser becomes a bit more reasonable in the time to come, I may buy into it.

We'll see in the next 5 years or so.

 

build one

Spoiler

But you knew I was going to say that...

 

While I give all you DIY'ers massive props for the time you put into research, troubleshooting, building, and learning from mistakes (what works, what doesn't), I don't have the patience or know-how of what particular items work well with what especially when considering fiber laser!

I've learned plenty from my friend, as it's much more than just "throwing a laser on an existing table". The software plays a big role when bundled with a table and fiber laser including features like micro tabbing and more.

Having bought into a premium table, I've come to appreciate the software (specifically all the R&D) that goes into it that plays so well with said table!

And of course like I said a bit more reasonable. I'm poor and on a fixed income so I don't have expendable money like y'all here

 

Took nearly a month, but I started moving into the new shop space this weekend.



Blank slate..

The welding equipment, and one of my work benches where some of the first items to get moved. along with the drill press, stuff for the air system, and some misc items that fit in to left over space on the truck. I will need to use the trailer that belong to storage company that runs this site. Hopefully Through out the week I can get the rest of the small tools and random material an supplies moved. this will leave the other tool box, plasma table, lathe, and band saw along with the air compressor to go out on the trailer.





Then, once everything is moved in, the real work starts on the garage. It will become a licensed food manufacturing plant for my dry rub. clean up all the grinding dust that has settled in the corners, recoat the floor with new epoxy , repaint the walls, and install the 3 bay sink along with the handwash sink.

 

I build because I do not have the extra money or credit to buy one outright. Growing up with a very well setup shop, wood, metal , automotive, and foundry. Building tools and equipment that was needed was just a natural thing. It is also, where the packrat tendency to salvage anything that may be useful for future projects come from. I will probably end up throwing a lot of it out. which means the I will need it within 30 days and have to rebuy it.

 

I'm surprised you're moving tools in before recoating the floor

 

If you document the garage remodel please post it !

 

Think what he means is, the garage will be redone.

That's the shop he posted that he just acquired.

Definitely deserves it's own thread!

 

its the garage at the house that will be getting recoated, the new shop will stay the way it is, I do not want to invest to much money into someone else's property

 

It's been a little while since I've posted a video, so I shot one real quick cutting a backrest setup from 1/8".

https://youtu.be/-CIez4PiGOo

I should really upgrade my press brake setup, not because of capability but more for the ability to use different punches for better clearance.



It's ok, my design works and my calculations are on point.







Friend wants to make his own stool, and since we're heading next week to stay at their place a few days, I'm taking as much of a complete kit as I can.

 

Also whipped up a firepit for my uncle last night. Gotta finish weld and paint today

 

In all my time doing CNC plasma, I've never bothered making a firepit

 

Afternoon all,
For awhile, i've been wanting a swingout for a spare tire but, i am not needing a high clearance bumper. I think i have settled on fabricating my version of a wilco tire gate. My issues with the wilco is the $2500 price tag, it's weak mounting points, and leaving the bed exposed. This will be my first fabrication/welding project aside from making brackets personally and some small jobs at work. I am NOT a sufficient welder for this task and will most likely be fabricating this to the point of tack welds and paying someone to finish weld it.

I have a decent design in my head and wanted to know peoples thoughts...
This will primarily be designed to support up to a 35" wheel/tire combo. My sketch below somewhat drawn to scale lol (minus the material size choices).
The swingout "frame" will essentially be one, connected bed stiffener.
It would be 3/16" steel flat stock mounted to the two rear bed bolts, two rear cargo hook bolts. The vertical supports will be 2" box tube and be supported laterally by angle brackets to the tailgate latch catch.
The physical swingout frame will primarily supported by a 4x innovations tire carrier hinge assembly on the bottom and a large Heim joint on the top. The non-hinged end will be supported on an upper and lower tab "ramp" similar to what most swingouts have. The latch assembly will be a 4x innovations swingout latch handle kit or RIGD ultra latch.
The backside of the swingout will be fully covered by an aluminum panel that will double as a drop down table.

I would plan for the following:
-frame, bottom bed plate; 3/16" steel plate
-frame, upright box tube; 3/16" wall, 2" steel box tube. (i believe the 2"x2" is minimum i can mount the 4x innovations hinge to.
-swingout frame; entirely 1/8" wall, 1-1/4" steel box tube

Thoughts on the general design and material thickness?
Is the mounting sufficient?
Is the material choice overkill?
I would like to keep the entire assembly under 75lbs.

 

From a quick look a major concern I would have would be your frame, bottom bed plate; 3/16" steel plate

3/16 plate is stout stuff but it will not help you any at keeping both of the uprights perpendicular to the bed plate. Bowing a piece of 3/16 x 4 x 48" plate is so easy itll do it under its own weight. This would leave that load to the bedsides which cant even hold themselves up in offroading situations.

I would use some sort of round or square tube that would weld directly to the uprights.

If anythings not clear I can draw some pictures or something.