Whiteline LCA bushings

I installed White Line's on new LCA's last year with a press and according to instructions. All went smoothly with tips found on TW, torqued them to spec, had an alignment, retorqued to make sure all was good. Did about 10K miles with a lot of miles on gravel roads, riding at a decent speed . Both poly bushings on the front ripped against the metal sleeve and UCA making them somewhat wobbly when lots of force was applied. I never heard of this happening before
I changed em back to stock and made sure to use plenty of antiseize on those bolts! No problems since. Forgot to take pics of the ripped/sliced poly bushings. Guess I'll have to do the yearly bolt lube maintenance

 

Yeah, idk why you would ever change the bushings in new OEM arms. These white lines are to avoid having to buy new LCAs.

 

Two years on and my LCA grease fittings are doing well.
In retrospect, I don’t think I’d go with the poly bushings again, however, I did finally get a cordless grease gun, which has made this maintenance item a cake walk.

 

These are greasable?

 

Hate to bump an old thread, I’m in the middle of doing this install along with the zerk fittings. Curious why you’re not digging the poly bushings after putting some miles on them.

 

I drilled and installed my own grease zerks on the LCAs. I have been unsuccessful in my search for a picture, I’ll take one when I get home.

I erroneously thought they were the culprit of my horrendous squeaking problem, they were not (it was my poor choice of MOOG ball joints, according to my brother-in-law). It actually was the ball joints, whether it was because of bad MOOG quality or not I am not sure.

Aside from that, the poly bushings have been great.
My only gripe would be that I don’t do any desert running anymore and would prefer a cushier ride. Swapping the bushings to OEM rubber would probably help but, realistically it’s my suspension that needs reconfigured.

So really they’ve been great and I don’t have complaints about the bushings like I thought I did, I just had to learn some things first.

 

I have this picture. I wrapped the bushing eyes with some flatbar too. If anyone else does this plug weld where you will drill and tap for the zerk. 2000 psi of grease will find every pinhole in your welds.

 

Nice, more solid than mine. I didn’t add any reinforcement, and my zerks are on the inner side of the eye instead of the top.
Nothing wrong with a little extra grease in there to protect against rust.

 

That’s good to hear, yeah I’m familiar with poly bushings and the stiffness factor. Replacing my lower ball joints with OEM Toyota one’s also. You can purchase them on EBay from reputable sellers for relatively cheap $70-80 for two. Part number 43330-09510.
Sealed in Toyota plastic wrap. Just tossing it out there. I’m pressing mine in tonight.

 

Well I’ve already replaced mine, Mevotech TTX “heavy duty” something or other, from Rockauto of course. We’ll see how those do long term.
My driver side lower ball joint was unreasonably comfortable where it was, tried the press, BFH and an air hammer. Ended up punching out the ball with the air hammer pointy bit and used a sawzall to put a relief cut in, air hammer to curl in the sides and pop it out. No major rust, no grooves and it wasn’t installed crooked. No idea why it wouldn’t budge.

 

It was the opposite for me lol pressing out and in the lower control arm bushings sucked big time. I ended up cutting very carefully the steel bushing sleeve, and beating it out. I don't recommend that but it worked. Eventually I made my own bushing sleeve to press the last two bushings out. For the lower ball joints I rented the Powerbuilt Master ball joint kit along with renting the OEM tools ball joint kit. Low and behold not one of those damn sleeves/bushing fit the Tacoma lower control arm. Two days prior I purchased the Vevor 36 piece pull and press sleeve kit and it saved the day! It made quick work of the lower ball joints for removal and install. The threaded rods are suspect but the heavy steel cups/sleeves are worth the price alone. That Vevor kit would have made quick work of the lower control arms bushings also. Im just going to replace the threaded rods with something of better quality.
Meanwhile all of this was childs play compared to removing the rear shackle hangers last week, bloody hell!

 

I had a hard time with the bushings too, in fact I installed the first one backwards and couldn’t press it back out in one piece. Whiteline really backed themselves though and sent me a replacement set.
I had the same problem with none of the ball joint kit sleeves fitting the LCA, I modified one with an angle grinder to get it to work. Warranty for that through Harbor Freight was reasonable enough. I’ll have to look at that Vevor kit.

 

Yeah those bushings are a pita. They dont take that much force to install but there is almost no flat on the bushing sleeve to press them in. I ended up making my own pressing tools at work and that worked well.

 

I can’t even remember how I managed it, I do know a bottle jack was involved.