All Things Bikes and Tacos! (...and every vehicle imaginable)

Have you looked at the Ibis Oso? It's an incredibly well specced bike, super versatile (can be 155 or 170, 29 or mx, 170 single up to 190 dual crown fork), great geo, 750w, Bosch cx, wireless mini remote, removable battery, 53 lbs, very well built. That weird rear end is actually awesome for chainslap noise, dead quiet.
Best part? $6500. That was the top of my list, until I saw the Repeater on sale for about the same.

 

I keep forgetting about that one. I do like that bike, even with its weird design haha.

is your repeater the powertrain model?

 

It is, I was intrigued.

 

How is it? Don’t really see powertrain at all

 

Welp, due to some other financial obligations, I am bailing on my new bike dreams. I'll have to hold off on the Forbidden for a season or two. I decided to treat myself to some Evil upgrades though, so I picked up a used EXT Era v2.1. First ride on it this morning and holy moly this thing puts my Lyrik to shame! It's a little harder to get off the ground but I think I can fix that once I dial it in more.

One other question for those that have used old Eagle drivetrain and AXS and T-type... is it worth upgrading my GX drivetrain to standard AXS? My GX is getting kinda finicky and takes a lot of adjustment to keep it shifting well, and it still is never quite right. It shifts fine but I always have a gear or two that's clicky. Would AXS be lower maintenance? No UDH on my offering but should I just hold out for T-type till I upgrade frames? Only other thing I'd consider upgrading is brakes. I'm on Code RSCs, quite happy with them, but I know there are better options these days (Maven, Dominion, Hope).

 

Yeah, only three bikes (I think) have it.
Some good, some meh…
Good:
Super integrated. No cables other than brakes. Just two pods.
Super clean. Only a small top tube display. No graphics, just basic info.
SRAM interface. Great app. Easy to dial in.
Best damn shifting anywhere. I don’t know how, but it’s the smoothest I’ve ever felt, up and down. And I have transmission in other bikes, this is way better. Just freakin perfect every single time. It’s unnatural.
Super easy and very adjustable torque and power band output for the ride modes.
Great components at the gx build. I just upgraded the fork damper.
Bad:
Meh power. I mean it’s more than I need, but not on par with the new new.
Only two ride modes. Range and “boost”
Heavy-ish. 50-52 lbs
Rides big. It’s 170/170, with a vivid, long, low, slack. It ain’t poppy unless you load it up.
Non removable battery. I get the form factor, but it sure would be nice just to get to the cables.


Range is great, I got 6.5k and had 10% left. That’s detuned a little, but to my preference for trail feel. 65% support, 540w. In boost I got up to 4k on full power mode.
**Edited** I. don't know why people want more power. Honestly. On the trail I ride with 500-550 watts, 50-70% support. More than that doesn't feel like riding a MTB.
I kinda get it for access roads, but at 700 watts and 100% support (boost) I'm flying up the trail barely breaking sweat. The motor controls the power well, it's just too much for trails.

Rides like a big bike should. Planted, confidence inspiring, jumps well on bigger lips.
I’m riding it MX. That gives me (I measured these myself) some pretty aggressive geo for a medium.
HA - 63*
STA - 78*
WB - 1260
BBH - 340
RE - 450
CS - 450
ETT - 505

It’s on sale now for under $7k, so I’m assuming the new powertrain is coming. They just released an update to the firmware though, and it was noticeable. The cutoff is much smoother, and power delivery is quicker and more controlled.
I also think there’s a lot to be said for getting into a well supported company like Transition, and well supported parts like SRAM. I know if something breaks, it will be easy to get service.

 

for brakes, i know a lot of people who are on the trp's. i hear good things but i haven't took the plunge. i'm on codes and still haven't convinced myself that i need to change. a buddy has the mavens and loves them. granted, the new set of sram brakes are all on mineral oil so i'd have to change my brake bleed setup if i went down that road. :/

 

Run Code RSCs on both my bikes, and recently demoed a Spire with TRP DHR Evos.

I def liked the TRP lever shape better, but I didn't really notice a significant performance difference enough to drop $500 x 2 to change them over. I did notice them are a bit more bitey than my Srams but not as binary on/off as Shimanos I run in the past.

Also, and this is just me, I already have DOT brake fluid around because of the truck, so it allows me to not have another consumable on the shelf (mineral oil) to mind and probably spill. Nobody likes a Diddy party in the bike cave!

 

yeah, the accessibility of dot fluid is a nice plus.

 

Kind of sounds exactly like my old spire as far as ride goes. It’s such a good bike in technical and steep terrain. Not super easy to bunny hop but super stable at speed and somehow easier to manual than my Ripley, not sure how consider the chainstays are like 20mm longer and overall way longer.

I can understand the issue with the power though considering the newest stuff from others are hitting 100nm. Sounds like a great bike though. I’d probably go with a regulator if I went transition.

I found a used trek rail that I may go with. 2024 9.8 model carbon frame with GX transmission and carbon bontrager wheels. Used but for $4550 I don’t think I will find a better deal.

I’m a huge fan of TRPs. The dhr evo is so good and way less finicky than sram codes. I probably need to bleed my codes but they aren’t as consistent feeling imo. I’d like to try the mavens though just for comparison. I also agree with having brakes that use the same fluid. In general I like everything to match across my bikes haha

 

Been on so many damn brakes now... But everyone's experience is different.

• Code RSC are great brakes with proper pads and the HS2 rotors. Nothing wrong with them. Easy bleed, hold up well, great availability of parts.
• Mavens are a little tricky, they need the "massage" but they are stupid powerful. Probably a bit much for trail use, but on steep stuff they shine. I don't like the lever feel at all. Same positives of Codes, just more power.
• Dominions are excellent. Power, feel, ergos, adjustments, bleed. All on point. One thing that kinda sucks, availability of parts.
• Hopes are my current faves. The power of the T4V4 is so good. The feel is top notch. Bleed is easy. For the first time ever, I downsized my rotors with them. Went from 220/220 to 200/200. Parts availability is ok. Easy online, hard local at times. They last forever, and can be rebuilt. Hope parts support is unmatched.
• TRPs are great, if they fit your hands. The new stuff is supposed to be better, but the old levers were pretty far out and smaller hands didn't feel too great.
• The new Shimano stuff looks promising, no experience. Previous XTs and Saints were awesome, but the wandering bite and immediate power were not great.
• Magura MT7s are excellent. Tricky to bleed, but hold up well. The levers being plastic kinda sucks, and I've replced two over the last 4 years. But, they are an absolutely stellar feeling and powerful brake.

I'm waiting for the new Hope stuff. I've had nothing bet excellent experiences with their products over the last 15 years.

 

So I was checking out a local thrift shop the other day and saw this bike for $50. I’m not interested, vintage isn’t my thing after owning a couple of older steel rigid bikes well into the 2010’s, but I’m curious if anyone knows what it is. Bare aluminum, beefy dropouts, decent welds, rigid Manitou fork, older Deore drivetrain. So probably not a department store frame, but doesn’t look like a Klein. Cunningham? That would be worth $50 …

 

I have Dominion T4's on my Orbea Wild and Trinity's on the Arrival.
The Trinity's are stupid powerful and the lightest lever pull in the business.
However, Dominions are phenomenal. The fact they're backed by Haye's is the chef's kiss. I've bought like 4 pairs of Dominions at this point and never paid retail, at least 40% off sales every time I've purchased.
I don't have as much braking experience though unfortunately I've been on several different brands, but not back to back to make any meaningful braking comparisons.

I do tell people to keep an eye out for a Dominion brake sale and give them a try.

 

Thanks for the brake thoughts all! I tried the TRPs on the Spire I demo'd recently. They were good but I think I like the feel of the Codes better and they have been flawless for me. All accounts I've heard are that the Hayes or Hopes would be a nice upgrade but I'm not sure it's worth it with the different bleed process and fluid. Time is critical to me these days with the kids...

On that note... any thoughts on upgrading to older AXS? Would that save me some maintenance time over GX eagle? Should I just wait for t-type on a new UDH frame?

 

Definitely not a Klein (Klein joints are filed smooth). Probably not a Cunningham either as those TIG welds are not nice. The Manitou is not rigid, it's blown. I don't think it's worth the $.

 

I’ve had GX mechanical on 2 bikes and AXS on one bike…plus convinced one of my riding buddies to switch to GX axs on his gravel bike haha.

personally, I haven’t had to touch any of my derailleurs in like 3 years +/-. I’ll just throw the plastic checker on every now and then and it’s usually fine. Personally, I would say the main reason to go AXS is ergonomics, even then ergonomics is a bigger impact on gravel and not as much on MTB. Cleaning is another reason to go axs since you can just take it off, clean it and put it back on. I don’t think maintenance on the derailleur is any different except now you need a battery or 2 to charge.

 

Yeah, the welds aren’t fine but surprisingly consistent and looked pretty good to me. The thick billet dropouts also looked like a low-volume artisanal brand, though Cunningham and Bradbury (Manitou bikes) had different detailing. Duh on the fork, yeah it’s collapsed. I assumed it would be elastomer and usually they don’t go that far down (what? 50 mm of travel when new?) but maybe the elastomer + fork oil are just a slurry that’s leaked out over the last 35 years. It’s 1” threadless so early 90’s at the newest. Still, the bike looked pretty cool. I could put a Clydesdale fork on it and use it as a town bike. Or just polish it up and hang the frame on the wall.

 

Have you used a derailleur hanger alignment tool on it? A tweaked hanger does you no favors.

I demoed a Yeti with AXS a couple summers ago and promptly crashed it in some chunky rocks. Dusted myself off, fretted about my now cracked cell phone camera lens, hopped on the bike and heard a "zip zip" as I started pedaling. I don't know if I really tweaked the der or not, but after it righted itself, shifted perfectly. If I did tweak it that was kinda neat. I'm patiently waiting for the upgrade kits to go on sale somewhere.

 

Yeah, I regularly check it with an alignment tool.

The righting itself stories are what have me intrigued. I've heard a few like yours.

 

Definitely saves you time and headaches. After getting axs a couple yers ago, I switched everything over (that I ride). No more twisting the barrel, no more cable or line replacements. In our dusty Utah summers that line gets gunked up pretty fast and shifting gets sticky.
They are pretty bomber too. I've knocked it so many times, broke the hanger clean off once. I put a new hanger on, hung it back on, and shifted like new (it still does today).
That said, if you know for sure you're going UDH soon, I'd hold off. Compared to the AXS, the T-type is way beefier, sleeker (closer to the frame), shifts better, and easier to use. There are no more limit screws, no more b-tension, no more hangers to get misaligned, and have replaceable parts.
Unfortunately the cassette and chain are not interchangeable. The cranks, chainring, and shifters are. So, if you're wanting to get regular axs now, then upgrade later, it's still a pretty penny.
With T-tpye, the good thing is that there's not much improvement to be had above the gx derailleur and chain. The cassettes are significantly lighter as you pay more. I ended up with the gx derailleur and chain, X01 cassette, and found some X01 cranks on sale. I think most people prefer the gx derailleur because it has the battery tucked in.
Oh yeah, one last thing. The clutch on AXS is definitely its weak point. It's kinda rattly, and I know several people have had them blow out completely, necessitating a whole new assembly. The T-type has no such issues.

My vote is keep your Codes, and upgrade them a little. New Galfer pads, HS2 rotors, fresh bleed. They'll fell great.
And keep your standard shifting for now. Check the hanger and cage. If you need to, swap the cable and derailleur. Won't cost you much and get you back shifting really well. Save your money for now, then, when you go UDH go for the T-Type AXS.