What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

Yup, it's spendie, but worth it!

 

trimmed fenders more, locked new full size spare, no more tire light,
going to start working on these 'ditch' lights eventually

 

I busted in the slider of the rear window. Truck locked the doors with the engine running. Had to bust a window, rear slider was cheapest.

These twilight zone door locks are killing me. Randomly locking, can't figure it out.

 

Well if it's locking while running that leads me to believe it's either a faulty lock switch, or a short in the wire. I have zero context on what you've done or searched for, sorry, just throwing that out there.

 

Push Toyota hard for reimbursement on this: It's ridiculous. Even my ancient 2nd gen won't allow locking the doors with the key in the ignition: running or otherwise.

 

It would if you used the door switch and the door was shut. As long as the door is open it won't allow it, or if the engine is running and you're trying to use the keyfob, similarly. But if you close the door, and the switch shorts/activates, it will 100% lock you out without hesitation.

 

Could be. I haven't experimented with all of the possible combinations that could have done it (and never will). All I can say is that one time I did some combination recipe/flavor of something with the key still in the ignition, and the lock rods unlocked themselves and popped back up on their own. YAY!

I have never tried to intentionally duplicate it: (I'm wary about experimenting with it now) That old saying: "Fool me Once..."

 

Just a Suggestion, Seeing that you are in Mass, I grew up in Connecticut. You might want to think about a different lock for you spare tire. One of those all weather types. So when it starts to snow it doesnt get filled with salt and corrode. It would sure suck needing you spare and not being able to open the lock.

 

Doing the doors I did not notice a huge difference but the doors were done over 2 years ago and I cant remember. We did my buddys 07 and he has 33's and they are pretty loud and he said the kilmat did help with tire noise. But the biggest difference that was made was by doing the floor and roof. I have a catback on my truck and it did drone pretty bad and with the floors being done I remember how much significantly less the drone was. Then for the roof that was also a big one for me with the wind noise and the rain I remember being able to hear the rain and with the deadening you barley hear it. Overall I would recommend it because it makes my truck nice to be in during roadtrips. If you do decide to sound deaden you truck make sure to get the Kilmat 80mil version so its thicker and will have more sound proofing.

 

Will post my decibel results Saturday or Sunday.

Got my door actuators fixed so just need to put the interior door panels back on!

PS: did not know you needed these little diddies for the handle action

 

That's a good idea. I thought it'd be better than a combo but ya I should prob look into it more!

 

Whatever you get, spray the key way with silicone spray and if it has a cap, stick a tiny dollop of grease under it, along with some grease where the pin meets the lock body before you insert it. Should keep the grime and crap to a minimum since any spots with lubricant/grease should be less exposed to the world/elements/road dust. I know, I know, but I still see failure points everywhere I look, even on new stuff meant not to fail as quickly or as badly.

 

Nah, use this stuff that I used for my boat trailer lugs that I put in saltwater:

 

Yea, listen to this guy, that's a better suggestion. I mean, still spray the key way with silicone spray - but instead of grease use that anti-seize.

 

Good idea, was thinking of keeping it oiled w fluid film or even zipping a Jimmy coat or bag. It is gnarly up here I have to oil everything anyway. I like the antiseize idea though

 

Installed a new PCV valve and hose, and did and drain and fill on my rear diff and transfer case. I used non-magnetic flat washers for all four drain and fill bolts, based on what I pulled off them. Was I actually supposed to be using steel crush washers for any of those, or does it not really matter?

 

I've always heard those rear sliders are the single most expensive window in the truck.

 

Quotes from safelites online store:
Windshield:$271
Front sides:$223-244 with the driver side being cheapest
Rear sides:$520
Rear slider:$681

You can buy just the front door glass on Amazon and install it yourself for $82. It does not need any special tools like the front or back glass.

so yeah… next time break the drivers side window. It’s the cheapest.

 

The tiniest windows end up being the most expensive. I’m guessing OP of that post is buying a replacement used center window off eBay and trying a diy for just the center window. Otherwise most professional places want to replace the whole rear window assembly.

 

Years ago I scratched the center section of my rear slider. Several glass shops said the same thing. Only replace the whole assembly.