Installed 35" Tires

Yes that's all manual calculation accounting for everything. I've done quite a few trips and the milage is off around 10-11% compared to Google maps. The Speedometer is right at 10%. Indicated 80mph will show @88 on Google maps GPS.

The trip mpg is always overstated on the screen.

 

Have a Marlin Crawler in hand.

It took a lot of work to get the 35"ers in without a lift, but in the end, I do not want to limit up travel and I do not yet know just what lift I wish to do - I keep my options open. I will make the lift my last decision when I have done all my other mods and weighed the truck for spring rate.

I have yet to decide upon a Cab Mount Chop or a Cab Mount Relocate. I barely touch the cab mount at this time with the 35" with full forward tire alignment and SPC uppers. The cab mount decision will be made when I fabricate the rock rail attachments. Pinch weld was bent to the outside - seemed like the only good result - no cutting slices out of it. There was a lot of hammer banging, major cutting of the plastic fender liner. The most involved was the upper front inner fender modifications. Had to drill out a few spot welds on the battery mount and bent everything up an inch or so; welded back in place when finished. Same on the passenger side, but in that case, I had to replace the stock wiper fluid tank as it would no longer fit the space available.

So, 35"ers are possible without a lift, but do require a lot of work. Not for everyone.

What will give the truck the best clearance will be the flat belly, clocking the crawl box and exhaust relocate.

 

You thought of making a build thread? You are doing things a little different it sounds like. You seems to be doing things in more of the order I like to do them. Once I get the cash saved up for a regear and tires all at once I plan to go to 35s from 33s with little to no lift.

 

I want to see some pics of 35s with no lift.

 

How do you put the trans in learning mode? I thought it’s always learning and adjusts every thousandish to your driving style

 

When I get to town for some internet I’ll upload some.

 

You need access to Techstream or a good professional tool. Or so I understand.

Don’t know if or how it learns after the initial driving when new. Or how much we drivers learn its idiosyncrasies.

 

Which rims are you using?
…from my limited understanding a bad combo of backspacing & offset could make any tire rub.

On the CMC vs relocate, is one method better than the other ?


I hear you on the “lift” it’s just shifting where it sits within the travel unless you change the uca & LAX’s.

It looks like Marlin Crawler also has those RCLT setups, if I was up that way I’d check them out.


I went a similar-ish path, first mod was sliders, exhaust re-route, full skids & gas tank skid, 255/85/16 to get some ground clearance, front bumper, fox 2.5 performance elites.
Looking at high clearance rear bumpers and maybe rims/tires.


You’re definitely on some serious trails, rubicon and I’ve heard fordyce and dusy are a lot more difficult…..I’d almost want a dedicated trail rig!

 

The tires are 35x10.5R17 Kenda Klever MT2s on steel 17x7.5 FJ rims. I’m not entirely sure, but I think they are the FJ spare tire rims. Yes, I like skinny and see no reason for FAT tires. These rims have 19mm offset which puts the inside of the rim in precisely the same position the stock OR 25mm offset rims were at. I may be able to fit 11.5” tires in the future, but not 12.5” with these rims.

As far as the body mount, the decision will be based upon where I wish to attach my rock sliders at the very front position. If the body mount gets in the way of my thinking it will be replaced. The body mount requiring more work to remove will also play into the decision. You asked which is better; it’s not so much which is better but what fits. Strenght wise my intuition says the chop is stronger leaving most of the mount in place. The relocate seems like a more refined option with the option to go to even larger tires in the unknown future.

I’m unfamiliar with the abbreviation “LAX”s.

RCLTs, they seem to be expensive, perhaps I’d go straight axle at that point. I really need to see just what I can do with the vehicle before I get to that type of decision.

Sliders are my very first piece of armor to go on. So important to protect those rocker panels.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-those-that-wheel-and-love-alignments.594309/

 

No build thread for me, my major was TV production and that would make it work.

 

The mud is not from wheeling, but plastering it on to see any rubbing.

 

Can we get a full view of the side of the truck

 

Read your owner's manual. It tells you the truck will 'learn' your tendencies over time.

 

Circumference is 14% from stock to 35s. Circumference is the measure of how far your tire goes in one revolution, not height.

 

Can you turn sharp enough to drive on the road?

 

The easiest way to figure it out is to drive by several speed signs as well as comparing GPS speed, and see how far off your speedometer is on average.

Another variable is that manufactures typically under state your speed from the factory.

Anyway, you’re traveling further than you realize on bigger tires so take that into account when calculating gas mileage. Might be 7% might be 14%, something to keep in mind is all.

 

Ha, dam autocorrect!
….lca….



Or SAS it.


Sounds like 17” has a lot more tire options, I’d like to be on 34x10.5 or 10s.
Ironically my new neighbor has a new 4th gen sr5 tacoma with some kind of bullshit lift on it and has 35x12.5x17s…..it looks great.

 

The removal of the mud to black on the cab mount is the amount of rub.

I hope you are kidding with that question - that was what all the HOURS of work were for at full stuff with the wheels turned in each direction. As mentioned just a bit of the cab mount rubs at this time. See above pictures.

Sounds like we need to start manually correcting our auto correct.

 

Love how those tires look. I have a chevy k10 trail rig and I think these in a 37 are going to be the next tire it sees.

I'm wondering how you are going to like a 35 with little to no lift on the trails. I imagine with them not rubbing at full flex it's going to be one capable and stable setup.