Oil brand

It depends.

Let's say you are the "new car every 3 years" guy, all you need to do is meet the warranty requirements.


Most of the vehicles I have had were purchased (cheap) with over 100,000 miles already and around 15 years old. I took good care of them and they gave me good service, they rusted away rather than wearing out.

The Tacoma is the only vehicle I have ever made payments on, it was 2 years old and had 12,000 miles when I got it. It is my retirement truck and needs to last me (hopefully) many more years.


Also, have you looked inside a modern engine? There are all sorts of things that control the cams & valves that run on oil pressure and electronics, I don't want to think what a problem sludge could be with all those magical bits - this isn't a Dodge 318 from the old days, that is for sure.

I never met anyone yet who said "I changed my oil too often and my engine wore out".

 

I use Mobil 1 like my local dealer parts guy said they used.

 

I have used Mobil 1 0w20 Advanced Fuel Economy since mile 0, now at 124,000. I did an oil analysis about a year ago and the truck had a perfect bill of health. I ran the same flavor of Mobil 1 in my Honda Civic for 200,000 miles from 77K to 277k, no issues.

I've been able to get pretty good fuel economy on long trips and long durations on the freeway, the gauge has read high 25s low 26s mpg. Certainly wind was also probably a factor.

But you get the idea. There's so many oils and so many good ones, it's pretty hard to go wrong with any of the top MFG of oils. I just stick with what has always worked.

You can't go wrong with Mobil 1.

 

We found in severe cold climates like ours, the fuel contamination is high (runs rich longer and they sit idling) this then makes the oil more corrosive.

Oil leaks and timing chain rattles always seem more common on the trucks that run longer intervals. Especially on the 5.7 tunrdas.

 

I also like to use a new OEM oil drain plug gasket when changing oil.

https://autoparts.harrtoyota.com/pr...1VEclQcTrlVhkgmNCH8xs4AiPZYT01qFwOptBGKdt0lxO

 

Since I bought this truck used, on its first oil change I'll do mobil1 with oem filter

 

Somebody mentioned about kit. Here it is oil filter kit from Motiv X Tools. Go Amazon, or direct to Motiv.

 

Order placed

 

exactly that. cheap insurance.

it's like not washing your hair for a month. you can absolutely do it. long haul truckers do it all the time. but with your existing knowledge of long haul truckers, do any of them strike you as high-class respectable people?

the whole point of changing oil is to get rid of contaminates that it picks up over it's usage. if it's contaminated at 5,000 miles, where do all those particles go? they don't sit at the bottom of the oil pan. and if the oils dirty, it really means that the oil filters not picking out all of them ether(based on my currently-prevailing theory that most oil filters are bypassing 60-80% of all oil passed through them). and if those contaminates are getting pumped through the motor, they have an opportunity to create additional wear.



fun fact, the mitsubishi-sourced, chrysler-used 3.0 v6 that was well-used through the 1990's into 2000's was well known for lifter tick issues, where the oil-pressure-based hydraulic lifter adjusters would get plugged up with sludge, and cause all sorts of noise. i fixed two of those engines to run quieter just by changing oil at 3,000 mile intervals. but they were pretty picky. at 2800 miles, they'd re-develop momentary lifter tick issues on cold startup.

i change at 5,000 because it's more than 3,000, but makes me feel far safer long term than running 15,000. and for me, i'm low-mileage, so it really only works out to about 1-2 oil changes a year-- and officially, the oil should get changed out at least once a year anyways, so i'm not entirely money ahead by going to a 15,000 interval.

 

Toyota Oil aka Mobil1 as I get it cheap at Toyota

 

Same here.

There does seem to be a bit of consensus towards buy whatever and change it every 5k.

I like Mobil 1 because of the label design and overpaying for shit makes me feel like a big shot!

 

I've been using super tech 0w20.

So far happy with it. Oil analysis shows its doing okay. The 6 months or so on this sample I didn't drive a lot though. I try to go around 5,000 per oil change.

 

No removal necessary for the fumoto. Lexus makes an aluminum housing that fits. Totally unnecessary IMHO. Use the right filter wrench and don’t gorilla fist it back on.

 

I just installed the short nipple one last week. I have knock off version of the TRD plate. No removal required to install it.

 

Mobil 1 & Valvoline

 

I have a 2023 Pro. I have the Motivx tools as well. You don’t need to remove the skid for the oil change. It’s really quite easy. I have an OEM aluminum housing as a backup just in case the plastic one breaks. I doubt I’ll ever have to use it. My 2016 4runner has a plastic housing and has been perfectly fine, so has my 2011 Camry that also has a plastic housing.

 

Step 1: Let's overthink everything.
Step 2: Make it more complicated than it ever needs.
Step 3: Everything on the internet is true

 

Mainly because people don't trust engineers. I send oil samples to blackstone every oil change for all my vehicles and go off their recommendation based on the dissolved solids in the oil sample. In my TDI Jetta, I go 12,000 miles between changes and have 240k on it. In my Sequoia, I go 15k between oil changes and have 313k on the clock. I'm at 70k in the Tacoma and go 10k on it. Blackstone report shows I can go longer but I'm usually in very dusty and dirty environments with lots of idling and water crossings so I keep it a bit lower.

 

Thank you, great response with some data. This is the route I'm going to take by sending in samples. Changed all fluids in my new to me 2017 w/2.7lt at 104k. 1st change will be at 6k and see what the analysis shows.