So you push your 1st gen offroad - what cracks next?

so you add a little more weight to fix the next, and the next, and the next, and then you need to add more power to push it

 

Yes, found this out the hard way last weekend. My shit officially needs to go on a diet.

 

My floor is back into my tcases, after repeatedly trying to make it clear. I do have some 1/2" body lift pucks I could try, but curious to see what you come up with Ian.

Non OEM ujoint based on the zerk? I don't think I've seen an OEM one break.

 

Well glad I'm not the only one in this boat. Will post updates once I get into it

 

Moral of the story, stop cutting the floor out

 

Worth it for how much more capable the truck is with a flat belly and crawlbox.

 

Sounds like it's possible without cutting the floor though with a 1" body lift... seems like a no brainer really. Less labor and more structural integrity.

 

Yes, had them put in new joints when the driveshaft was retubed for the crawl box. Looks like I got the Amazon special. I’m currently sourcing some sealed higher strength joints from Spicer.

Wasn’t even thinking of this when I put the taller body mounts in, but it’s been the most beneficial side effect.

On the flip side, I think the harder poly mounts are at least partially responsible for the back cab wall coming apart.

 

Well unfortunately... the rubber ones are NLA now... wonder if someone would pour a lower durometer poly though. The poly mounts make way more contact with the cab too compared to how the rubber ones are vulcanized in.

 

Have you seen these?

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem...peller~shaft~universal~j0int~04371-60070.html

 

Ya if I were to do it over again I would have just done a BL, but in all my research back when I was doing my dual cases I never read any mention of people's floor collapsing by cutting too much out. But I was young enough to not have any foresight and stubborn enough to not want to do a BL.

 

$57?! Better be unbreakable for that.

The problem with the greasable joints is that the grease passage reduces the shear area across the caps. The sealed (non-greasable) are preferable for strength, although not for longevity.

The Spicer 5-1310X are the ones I’m looking at:
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p4...hRr-0IFYL6wzZxojhBYJjm9RifEeSS_T0mrl_huu0JQ4n

 

The factory Matsuba joints have been shown to be stronger than some Spicer 14XX series joints so $57 ain't bad

 

Ha, 3 for 1 deal.

 

Is that both greasable joints? I don’t know if Matsuba has a OEM non-greasable 1310 joint.

Napkin math shows a 50% increase in nominal shear strength between joints (one greasable, one non-greasable) with a 1” trunnion diameter, assuming a grease passage that’s ~3/16”, and the same grade steel (I picked 80ksi, no idea what it actually is).

 

The napkins I use don't support that kind of math.

 

I did a bunch of reading on it when rebuilding a shaft, and the old school Toyota crawler guys concluded the OEM joint was the best. Our driveshafts use the same parts as most of the older Toyota stuff, unlike the new trucks.

I'd do one of those before even a non-greasable spicer. I think your pic of the chinesium joint is the first one I've seen broken. I have even seen a broken yoke or two but the joints hold up.

 

There’s something to be said with having a fuse in the system. Just like with the CVs, I’d rather have something easy to replace blow up instead of a pinion, t-case, diff, etc.

 

Don't you have a way huge diff/pinion from an LC.. it would def be the little chain drive case... but on the rear... nah, you'll still just kill a ujoint but doing something way dumber than you'll have to do to kill a 1310. We blow up the cheapo merican 1310s in low power street cars often enough haha

 

I was more thinking the front diff, yeah probably not gonna hurt the LC 9.5 haha

I would hate to detonate the chain in the t-case on the trail though