Engine block coolant cock over tightened

Hello everyone. New to this page. I just did my coolant drain in my 2012 Tacoma 150k miles. My question is what’s going to happen if I over tightened the engine block coc drain for coolant? I’ve noticed the drain coc turned upward then I immediately put it back the way it was. You could say I’ve done very torque. Here’s the pics for reference. So far no leak. Thanks for the advice and responses.

 

It doesnt matter which way it faces, but its too tight ya.

I've impacted drain plugs back in and they havent turned the base.

As long as its not leaking you're fine.

 

I ran it for an hour and drove it as well and so far no leaks. Thank you

 

If push comes to shove you can take the whole drain cock out and just put it back in. There's probably a sealing washer behind it

 

Pretty sure they are a tapered thread.
They uses a thread sealer/locker.
You do them like a home plumbing fitting. Like a supply line fitting.
Get them snug and turn it until it "lines up" where you need it.

In a pinch, Teflon pipe thread tape would work. (If used correctly)

Neither of them have to be "exactly" straight up and down either.

As mentioned. If it's not leaking. Leave it alone.
Not many people drain the block anyway. Most do good to change the coolant PERIOD.
Most of the time, the coolant gets drained when a repair is made.......

Or you can to it Toyotas Way????........(Which most guys don't do. Me included)

 

Its a bit tight in the there but I'd try to counter-hold the whole thing with a bigger wrench and break that drain screw loose. I wouldn't want it seized up the next time I try to use it

 

Which is why I don't even bother draining the block on my truck.
Coolant drain and fill every 50k for me via the radiator.

I'm not touching those drains.
My luck, they'd leak, or come loose. Just like you said.....

 

In the bigger picture.. the point is don't worry too much about it coming loose. Its made to unscrew and come out anyway if needed. Reseal the threads or whatever you have to do.. just don't overtighten it when you go back in. Both the whole drain cock and the drain screw.

Ive used both drains on both sides a couple times now and when I tighten the little screw just simply stop when it wants to stop. It doesn't need a buncha torque to seal. Easy does it. The drive is 10mm for a reason..

 

Absolutely true.
I just have no luck. When it comes to "plumbing".
First thought that went into my head when I seen the block drains was, "Some trash from inside the block will get down in the drain and cause it not to seal".

Most of it comes from working on old home plumbing.
Every single time I work on iron pipe water lines, something leaks, or something unintended breaks or comes loose".
Then rust gets down in to the pipes. If your lucky like me. That rust makes it up in to so fixture in the house. It wither stopes the fixture up, or they want to leak. (drip)
Nothing like flushing your toilet and having it sound like a trumpet. So, you get to take the fixtures apart and clean out the rust.

Point is, I HATE plumbing. On cars, on house....All of it.
I don't like it....

I'm a PEX and PVC guy.....
Who said "plastic" was bad?????

 

The large corporation I retired from has a similar type of torque spec for tapered threads, and it hasn't failed me. I have it somewhere on a flash drive. It's the same as stated, torque to spec, and then rotate up to one turn to position.

 

I pretty much stop in position if I don’t think it will make it one more revolution.
That is, if I’m working with tapered thread NPT.

Most of my tapered thread experience is with home plumb.
And adjustable wrench or pipe wrench. Not breaking out a torque wrench to fix a toilet supply line. lol……