(Engine Trashed?) Thread of Unfortunate Events

Doesn't say much about clocking it, maybe it only goes on there one way.

 

It does, there’s a little raised bump on it that indexes to the hole in the crankshaft. It’s just that a lot of people don’t pay attention to it when they’re installing it.

 

Awesome, I'll be sure to pay attention to it!

 

Tdc for timing belt, iirc must be on compression stroke with both valves closed. There is 2 TDC's in four strokes.

 

Well, it's definitely TDC but I didn't check to make sure it was on the compression side...probably need to pull it back off and do it again if thats a must...50/50 shot I got it right but wouldn't it still be in time since another 2 rotations of the crank they would all still be lined up?

 

Well actually now that I think about it, the cyl1 piston is TDC since the dot on the crank sproket was in the correct location but without the cams installed already there wouldn't be any combustion stroke since the valves arent functioning. So, with the cams lined up with their respective position that would have to make it compression stroke.

Think I'm okay as long as I understand that correctly. Those cams would have been extremely hard to work with if a lobe had a valve open.

 

To tell you the truth not totally sure. I have just always done it on the compression stroke. Could have to do with interference vs non interference engine if belt off a couple teeth when installed. I have a different engine but here's a page from the procedure from my FSM about timing belt/chain install. Maybe someone else can verify.

 

As longer as your cam marks and crankshaft TDC mark aligned per repair manual, you should be good.

 

J

This the same procedure.
Toyota engines with a camshaft cradle are interference engine. As longer as you set you cams in the cradle against marks and the crankshaft to TDC, you are good to go.

 

You're right. Until you install the cams, it's just TDC. The cams determine the stroke.

 

0P100 is the North American-produced short block that was originally used in the Tacoma (2GR). 31400 is the Japan-produced short block originally used in the Hiace (7GR).

For all intents and purposes, they are identical, except for where they were made and what the engine family embossing says (2GR vs. 7GR).

The Tacoma engine really is just a 7GR, and in fact early documentation before the 2016 Tacoma was released stated as such. It was slightly later that it was "renamed" 2GR.

Jeff

 

Thanks for clarifying, I thought that was what I had read from you before.

Wonder if there are any quality differences between the two blocks coming from different places...doubtful but maybe.

Furthering this discussion a tiny bit, does the 7GR from the Hiace use the same model of cylinder heads & valves as the Tacoma model?

 

Look here is the facts, if I fire this bad boy up and the timing is off - I'm putting an AR round into it.

Someone pin this.

 

The 2002 -2004 Subaru STI had problems with the piston ring lands cracking and I believe detonation was the main cause.

 

I vote 50 BMG. Maybe you can get enough views on YouTube to recoup some of the cash spent.

 

I second this motion

 

On a side note, got photos from my corvette engine breakdown. Crank was 100% pushed forward under loads of pressure due to the dealership installing the torque tube incorrectly. They won't take ownership so I'm trying to find an attorney...

This is why I HATE dealerships.

 

I saw a YT vid about this issue where it was noted that diesel oils used in high boost / high compression motors can contribute to this. Too much of an additive. Sulfur maybe? An Audi with evidence of this was shown. Pretty wild.

 

I did not read all of the 100 post, but I need to ask, have you kept up on your oil changes like every 7,000 miles NOT short trip miles either ? if not I have seen carbon build up cause what you showed here in your post. That really sucks.

 

I was doing the recommended I believe 7k or 10k miles? I'm going to be doing 5k from now on.