How to remove lower ball joints

i can not figure out how to remove my lower ball joints so that i can replace them can anybody help out?

 

As far as I know unless something has changed in the last few months, you have to purchase the ball joints already pressed into the lower control arms. When I replaced my lowers they were not replaceable by themselves - had to do the whole control arms, control arm bushings, alignment cams, etc. Very expensive.

 

damb,hope mine dont go out any time soon.

 

I finally wore out the lower control arm ball joints on my 08 prerunner after three years of offroading and 60k miles. No big deal... I guess it's to be expected with lots of offroading and abuse. So I purchased some moog ball joints which are a direct replacement to the oem balls joints. Today I began the process of replacing them and got no where fast. Now my truck is back together with the same dam ball joints I started with. Basically speaking I couldn't get past popping the tapered end out of the spindle carrier using a pickle fork and impact hammer. What the heck does it take to brake the ball joint loose from the tapered seat? I used a tapered pickle fork with an impact hammer, pipe, and beating on it with a wood block. No luck

Suggestions please???

 

I have yet to hear of anyone replacing ball joints without having to buy the whole control arm assembly from Toyota. I have had mine done twice now with whole new OEM assemblies.

Keep us updated because maybe 1/2 dozen people tried before you to replace with aftermarkets and failed. If you succeed, please take some pictures throughout the process and provide a little write up if possible.

EDIT: Are you trying to remove the BJ from the lower control arm or you cannot even separate from the spindle after removing the castle nut? If the latter, get a really big pry bar (4-6 feet) and place lots of pressure on the joint while a buddy hits the top of the castle nut with a really heavy hammer or sledge. Have the castle nut backed off to the end of the threads of course.

I don't like pickle forks - they usually do more harm than good.

 

[/quote]If the latter, get a really big pry bar (4-6 feet) and place lots of pressure on the joint while a buddy hits the top of the castle nut with a really heavy hammer or sledge. Have the castle nut backed off to the end of the threads of course.

I don't like pickle forks - they usually do more harm than good.[/quote]


I'll give that a shot. Somebody else suggested using the the impact hammer with a blunt tip bit. Put it on the bottom of the castle nut and see if I can make progress. We'll see what happens.

 

Slight modification...don't bash the top of the castle...instead you need two 2-5 lb hammers...hold one against the side of the taper and whack the other hammer on the other side of the taper while your buddy tugs on the pry bar. The whacking 'rings' the taper seat just enough for it to loosen and pop out.

Don't do this with only one hammer...the second one absorbs or reflects the energy and focuses it just around the taper, minimizing the impact force transmitted back through the LCA into the bushings. Start light taps and increase...the idea is NOT to damage or deform the LCA at all!

 

Whatever floats your boat. I've used and saw the above method used on dozens of vehicles without issue. Don't need a very big tap from the hammer with a properly placed pry bar.

 

Very true use 2 sledge hammers and this will most surely break the lower ball joint loose.

 

I would have done a write up on the subject, however I used methods that no civilized man or woman should use. And by that I mean modifying tools and a fair bit of cussing. Oh well... Got the job done!

 

nice work bobby

 

Thanks, it was a mofo. I had my doubts about getting everything back together but, when your only truck is in pieces you don't have much choice

 

In retrospect yes. There simply isn't a proper tool for removing a lower ball joint from this year of truck. I'm not too excited about removing the lower control arm either but if you mark where the caster/camber adjusters are and install it the way it was removed after you visit a shop with a press, then you shouldn't experience any challenges.

 

mine was a pain in the @ss i didnt have my truck for 3 days (working on it after work) i replaced all 4, to top it off the boots tore putting them back on so i hope it doesnt dry out..and that was a pain also.. those little boots would not go on with the clip for the life of me.

 

What do you mean the boots wouldn't go on? Are you refering to the upper control arm? I know on the lower arm the boot is underneath while the clip is on top.

I can't believe you did all of them. What tool did you use to pull them?

 

im refering to the boot that holds the grease inside the ball joints. it was so hard and the boots tore a little so far i think they are still holding grease inside.. not to mention the little nipples to put grease in didnt even fit right so in order for me to put grease i have to old a fitting in there

i used some press and a hammer to bang the ball joints in and out. my friend is a mechanic so he helped me alot. and it was still a pain. hopefully i dont have to do it again anytime soon lol

 

Nice, any links as far as where to buy uca ball joints and lca ball joints? I think i need to replace my uca bj soon

 

YES! Those stupid nipples were a pain in the ass. Apparently moog forgot to thread that shit.. wtf!?

Oh god don't remind me of the hammer and press. That' exactly how I had to get my ball joints out. Those things were pressed in like nothing I've seen.

 

Anyone done this recently, I am thinking about doing it, and wondering how the MOOG Ball Joints hold up, this is much cheaper than the complete factory arms.

 

Why is this so difficult? A $15 Pitman arm separator from Advance auto will do the job on these BJ's no problem.