Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

Stuff here is planted pretty thick also but is in rows

 

It's in rows, but they're 6-8" apart.

 

No dairy left in the county. Some beefers, but only a few small herds here and there. Most of the trash hay that gets bailed as required by Land Use tax scheme, gets abandoned in tree lines.

I half wouldn't be surprised to see the kid with combine next month. lol


This land was actually a dairy farm for most of the 20th century. The old barn is on the parcel on my other side.

 

I didn't really have a question, but I was kind of puzzled at the different shape of the plunger on the two solenoids. Thanks for the input on that..
The info I had seen online said to remove the carburetor to change the solenoid. That didn't make sense to me from what I could see looking at the engine. I inquired here last week about the subject and was told the carb didn't need to be removed. The Kohler instruction sheet didn't say to remove the carb either, just drain the bowl and unscrew the solenoid.
Anyway, the engine shut off fine at low throttle yesterday after I used it. I'm just hoping that it wasn't a fluke

 

When I started to rebuild my deck, I had to use screw drivers to crack apart all of the petrified layers of build up before I hit it with the power washer.

I sprayed the underside with silicone spray on hopes that it might help the fresh grass from sticking. Ive only cut once since doing that, so I need a few more sessions before having a look to draw a conclusion.

 

I just spent $100 on a CHAINSAW!

and it may be one of the best purchases I've made in a while.

It's a Joncutter G2511, A clone of the Echo top handle.

I used it today to limb a fresh felled hemloc, and "What a limbing machine" it is!

I can't say how it's gonna hold up, but "So far, I'm a happy camper" Cuts like no tomorrow, way Mo' better that the Makita battery 10 inch.

 

I don't ever sharpen my lawn mower blades...

I do change mowers over the season, though.

 

Any of you guys familiar with pumps? Have a Goulds GT15 irrigation pump that went out on us. Its only ~2-3 years old. It has been "flooded" twice just by rainwater running past it (and over/through it) but the first time was 2 years ago and the past time was July 4th and has worked fine up till this weekend.

But anyways...the shaft spins freely. But the capacitor was blown. Bought a new one (same specs) and it got incredibly hot and then blew after ~1-2 minutes. So not totally sure where to go from here.

We did end up with a replacement one just cause we needed it and all. Same exact pump as a replacement and it works just fine so not a power issue or anything. but at ~$850 figure it worth getting the other as a backup if we can

 

Keep us updated on it. I've looked at them on Amaz0n and wondered how they do.

I had a gool ol' fashioned brush pile burning today. Added all my tax forms from 1992-2015 as well as 10 boxes from my wife's TPN infusion deliveries. They are insulated with a paper-type of insulation that looks just like styrofoam. Also have ~20 gel ice packs to cut open. I cut 20 yesterday. Each box has 6-9 in it.




And sadly a casualty of war. I got sloppy and left the hose hanging down out of the loader bucket and the wand got snagged under the tractor and ripped off. I hate doing stupid stuff!

 

Shaft spins freely, new capacitor blows when trying to start... sounds like one of the motor coil(s) is shorted.

 

Thats kind of where I was leaning (after reading online) but figured i'd ask others opinions first. havent had time to really dive into it to look outside of the capacitor

 

You ain't alone.

Last week I was changing the radiator on Tundra.

Had the new rad unboxed and inspected and standing up out of the way.

Pulling the old rad, I tripped and knocked some metal over. Can you guess where the iron tipped over into?

Yep. Into the new rad the metal fell . Knifed open 4 rows of core.

Brand new rad tossed into the scrap pile and a call to my dealer to get another coming.

 

We all have those moments.

 

If the motor has a centrifugal start switch make sure it isn't stuck or the contacts welded.

It will look similar to this:



Operation overview:

Induction Motor Starting-Boost Design Options
In our more-detailed induction-type electric motor wiring diagram shown just below, the centrifugal switch, a model that is normally closed, opens at speed to cut both the start capacitor and the start winding from the motor's circuit.



Watch out: If your electric motor uses this design an dif the centrifugal switch fails to operate the starting capactor will burn up or even explode and/or the start winding may overheat and be damaged.

Below our elecric motor drawing shows a different capacitor start/run design in which only the startign capacitor is cut from the circuit when the motor approaches run-speed. In this design the start winding remains energized as the motor continues to run.

At that point the start winding, or secondary winding, is functioning as an auxiliary winding helping smooth the motor's rotation.



In this design if the centrifugal switch fails to open when it should (at higher motor speed) the starting capacitor will be destroyed.

Full version: https://inspectapedia.com/electric/Electric-Motor-Centriugal-Switch-PRD-PTC.php

 

Ouch! I hate it when my gut tells me to beware and I ignore it. Usually results in what happened to me and you.

My FIL liked how I turned a hose and an air blower into an air compressor drain so I turned the burner handle into one for his compressor.