Trying to maximize my A/C output

Been well over 100 every day in Arizona this summer, so Im looking for ways to maximize my A/C output. Just read that wrapping the A/C refrigerant lines under the hood can help. Any one ever done this?? If so, any suggestion on the type of wrap? Thanks!

 

I honestly don't think you'll gain much by wrapping any pipes. Being as the a/c was designed without them, you may cause other problems in the system if internal components are getting too cold.

You could find any foam wrap or tape in the plumbing section at your local hardware store.

 

Fan on max, vents set to face and feet (hopefully you're wearing shorts), and recirculate on.

2nd gen AC was never amazing, and the face blowers kind of sucked (steering wheel was between you and the vent). In Georgia, doing anything less than max fan was pointless when it was super hot, I imagine AZ is much worse.

Do you have a windshield reflector for parking? Keeping the car a few degrees cooler before you get in helps a lot.

 

You could try to clean the condenser and add tint.

Use a/c coil cleaner. Remove the grill, fix any bent fins, and spray the condenser with coil cleaner. Basically just follow the instructions on the can.

If you don't already have tint, add some.

Last, you can do something like add dynomat with the reflective barrier but in reality, this only helps keep heat in.

 

We haven’t even hit the 90s yet and my MGM colored Tacoma is at code red as far as the AC goes. You may need some dry ice to correct your problem in Arizona.

 

I spray the bugs and any mud out of the condenser and radiator with a pressure washer once in awhile

 

Yes, airflow across the condenser is the main contributor to A/C performance so keeping it clean is sage advice. I also like my factory grill and I keep it free of Raptor lights or anything else that could potentially impede airflow through the condenser.

 

I wrapped all the hoses & tubing for the A/C on my 3rd-gen (it had a good 6-7 feet of exposed suction line snaking all around the hot engine).
Like someone said, the poly foam pipe insulation from a hardware/plumbing store works real well for this (insulation for ½" pipe fits best). Securing (wrapping) it with electrical tape every few inches will keep it in place (I used Scotch Super-88 tape, the adhesive on the 88 seems to be unaffected by engine heat unlike cheaper / no-name tapes).

The 3rd-gen reportedly had issues with the A/C shutting down whenever it got to 100° or more (has a TSB for this), but with everything insulated, it's always worked well even in 117° heat (no TSB done on mine).

 

Are you new to AZ? This is one of the tamest summers we've ever had, lol.

 

Quality ceramic tint all the way around

 

I remove my cabin filter in the summer, I block the windows with covers and rear.

anything over 100f40c I would die, not sure I’d ever adjust.

 

I've always had a suspicion that the AC in the Tacoma was designed around the cooling load of the single cab, which is why it seems so weak on the double cab model.

But it could also be that there just isn't a lot of room for a big enough condenser and evaporator due to the truck's size.

My old single cab F150 would freeze your tits off WITHOUT using MAX A/C and I always assumed that truck was the opposite where it had the AC tonnage meant for the Expedition.

 

Don't worry, it's a dry heat

 

Had the same truck, you could see my dogs breath in the middle of summer.

 

You might look into a heater core control valve. I think Tacomas have the circuit to the heater core open all the time. I may be wrong.

 

My 06 Access cab has nice cold air, lower 40's F in this year's summer heat. This truck is only a few months away from 20 years old so I'm very happy. Right now the heat is brutal here in central Florida but I imagine AZ is much worse.

One thing I have done so far to help with the AC temp is to build a small removable air dam that directs some air flow to the AC condenser. I did that mod several years ago. It seemed to help with the AC temp as well as the tranny temp as the external cooler is right there also.
An air mister spraying on the condenser would also be nice.

I recently insulated the low pressure AC pipe from the bottom of the right side of the engine bay up to the firewall. I used some left over insulation from re-insulating my home outdoor AC pipes this year. If I had to do again I would research and probably buy something different as the truck lines are 1/2" and my home AC pipes are 3/4". All insulation was completely wrapped in heat resistant fabric tape and secured with metal tie wraps which was a real slow process.
Next time I would also swap out the pipe clamps to accommodate the insulation instead of stopping and starting at the clamps.

The remaining section of pipe at the bottom front of the engine running to the compressor is too close to the drive belt and pulleys so I opted to not insulate that part. I may just wrap it in some kind of rubber fusion tape later.

The AC actually feels cooler than before the insulation installation and it only cost me $10 for the tape. I'm sure some educated people will say insulating is not needed. How can it not help if even a little?

I was working on my grandson's 97 Geo Prism (which is a rebadged Corolla) this year and noticed that the low side AC pipe was factory insulated.

 

Yes it has full flow all the time. Uses the Blend Servo to control hot and cold ratio.

 

+10

 

I wonder what vent temps should be in 85-90° weather. My whole AC system was just replaced and I get like 47° vent temps maybe closer to 49° on number 2 speed max ac mode recirculating

 

I think general rule of thumb for R134a systems is 35-40* lower than ambient temps. IIRC the best place to check is the center vent drive side.