What’s your #1 Mod?

Wow, what a list here! My favorite mods were getting it back to all OEM, save for hood dampers, OEM skid plate, OEM greyTRD ball shifter knob, OEM chrome tail pipe end, Rough Rider mats, new OEM relacement wheels, and the spotlight mod allowing spots on independent of headlights and high beam operation.

 

I did 3 mods one at a time. got some Gen 3 wheels in trade for my 17, they wanted to put on real off road tires.
Put Mich on the 18 wheels, great ride.
The Bil shocks made for an even better ride.
The lowering kit not only handles better,but will cruise at 55 w/o strain in OD!
The sheepskin covers are mando on our cars.
It rides nice at 80!
The frame mount D rings are nice but a pain to install.
Cargo net helps going to the dumps.

R

 

Are those icons in the rear too? What’d you use for the dust cover?

 

Heated seats!!!

 

Y’all are way off…
The Christmas lights mod is by far the best

looking back at these photos, I was damn lucky to have never been pulled over, drove right by cops too. I guess everyone was in the Christmas spirit, broke necks like nothing else.
And while we are on the topic, the teeth mod for Halloween wasn’t bad either

 

New headlights always makes a truck look better. Above all mods maintaining your truck matters .

 

2.5" RR RXT (comes with the stage 8) The dust covers were installed by the suspension shop... not sure of the brand.

 

25in lift on monster truck tires

literally every woman i drive by wants to marry me, men immediately respect me, and i'm completely deaf from the howl

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-seat-stain-mod.548500

 

Update to all. Didn’t realize my threads from some time ago were gaining traction now. I’ve done a lot to the truck. Best yet has been getting a little boat for it. RC floor mats are pretty great too though.

 

That’s an amazing ride.

 

I agree with that.

 

So much you had to post it three times. Just kidding. Good looking rig.

 

Love my cap! Great camping rigs.

 

Swapping out my 17x9 steel wheels with 265/75/17 Michelin Defender LTX M/S2s (total weight per wheel = 86.35 lbs.) for 17x9 aluminum wheels with 265/60/17 Toyo Celsius Sport (total weight per wheel = 59 lbs.).

Back in the day I used to autocross, so I know firsthand how much of a difference dropping rotational weight can make. I don’t take my Tacoma off road, just daily driving, but the difference is night and day. These trucks are already underpowered, so shedding that much rotating mass made a massive improvement in how it feels on the road. It’s not a huge number, but on a naturally aspirated engine every bit of freed-up horsepower counts, and you can absolutely feel the difference in everyday driving.

Here is a Chat GPT analysis for example, I don't pretend to be that good at the maths lol...



Power to weight of your truck (exact curb weight)

• Engine: 1GR-FE, 236 hp
  
• Curb weight: 4,065 lb
  
• Power to weight (hp per ton) = 236 × 2000 / 4,065 = 116.11 hp/ton
  

Rotating mass numbers

• Steel wheels + 265/75/17 Michelin: 86.35 lb × 4 = 345.4 lb total
  
• Aluminum wheels + 265/60/17 Toyo: 59 lb × 4 = 236.0 lb total
  
• Static weight removed by swapping = 345.4 − 236.0 = 109.4 lb
  

Conservative rotating-weight factor of 1.10 (rotating mass effectively counts 10% heavier).

Step-by-step math and results

1. Effective mass with steel setup
   
   • Extra penalty from rotating steel wheels = 0.10 × 345.4 = 34.54 lb
     
   • Effective mass = curb + penalty = 4,065 + 34.54 = 4,099.54 lb
     
   • Power to weight = 236 × 2000 / 4,099.54 = 115.13 hp/ton
     
2. Effective mass with aluminum setup
   
   • New curb weight after swapping static wheels = 4,065 − 109.4 = 3,955.6 lb
     
   • Penalty from rotating aluminum wheels = 0.10 × 236.0 = 23.60 lb
     
   • Effective mass = 3,955.6 + 23.60 = 3,979.20 lb
     
   • Power to weight = 236 × 2000 / 3,979.20 = 118.62 hp/ton
     
3. How much power did you effectively gain by shedding the rotating mass?
   
   • Change in hp/ton from steel to aluminum = 118.62 − 115.13 ≈ +3.02%
     
     
   • Compared to the raw curb weight number (no rotational penalty), the aluminum setup is roughly +7.14 hp equivalent.
     

 

the little furry thing

Front locker, paired with the TRD rear locker it’s a night and day difference from open diff 4x4 on harder obstacles and on slick trails

 

Looks good! I stopped by Parker Toyota yesterday and ordered replacement hardware for the front catalytic converter heat shield, and again this morning as it had arrived. I always stop to admire the big steel Lab out front. Professional artists painted one side as a black Lab, the other side as a white Lab. It took four of us to load the flat steel into a Tundra on its travels (from Pacific Steel to cutting, powder coating, airport hangar masking and painting the grass, NIC's Parker Technical Center Industrial Milling & Machining class, the artist's studio, and Parker Toyota). My friends and I are glad we have 1st and 2nd Gens! (Later got bigger, and more battery drainage!)

 

The problem is they end up be “damage-multipiers”.
Instead of protecting, the bars often get pushed back into the body upon impact, causing damage where there would have been none had they not been installed.
They also cause damage when impacted where they are mounted due to the non-structural method of attachment typically designed into these products.
Finally, the low hanging step is an impediment for clearing obstacles found when off-roading.

edit:
And my #1 mod in the Best Mod for the $ category is….

Archive Hammer Hangers.
Incredible upgrade to handling and stability for “pennies”.

Of course all my mods are great-
Starting with the camper shell- so safe, so dry, sooo good.
Fox Factory suspension- silky smooth goodness
Deavers leafs- the ‘best’ ride
Steel armor- stay safe my friends
Eaton lockers- selectable front and rear for less than an upgrade from SR to the rear locker only OR!