HOT driver's side drum, HELP!!

Need opinions and thoughts!!!!
So one day driving my truck on the interstate to go install a extended brake line ( ) after I installed my OME Dakar leaf springs and proportioning valve extension ( ) I notice my truck REEKS of hot brakes. Put the stuff on, continue about my life, few days past decide to crack into it and it takes 30 minutes to pry this drum off.
This hot drum continues to stay after almost replacing everything: shoes, drum, hardware, wheel cylinder (wasting money). Only thing I haven't replaced is the star wheel and parking brake hardware, I cleaned the star wheel and it seemed fine (now its put all the way down). Before the wheel cylinder replacement I disconnected the parking brake cable from the outside lever and nothing changed, tomorrow I plan on triple checking my install and taking off the cable on the inside to see if something changes and try to rule out the e-brake.
If anyone can give me ideas or lead me in some type of direction it would be a great help!

 

Hmmmm

just a guess bc I suffered the opo
Possible same part failure
LSPV

mine failed and I was running zero rear brake bias b4 I did a LSPV delete

possible that your LSVP is stuck/failed giving 100% brake bias on that one corner

 

I had that problem and it ended up being a sticky parking brake bellcrank/lever. It seemed to work fine, but if I parked on a hill and engaged the brake harder than normal, it would stick and I'd have to crawl under to release it. It was just the last couple degrees of movement that would wedge it and no amount of lubing would loosen it up. I eventually had to take everything apart to descale the parts. In fact all of the moving parts along the brake cable eventually needed the same treatment after twenty-some years of road salt.

 

This is a "known" issue with Tacomas, well, known to me anyway. Certain Tacomas have a tendency to overadjust the shoes automatically and the one fix it to replace all of the brake spring hardware. While you are under the truck examine the pivot for the cable on the rear axle, there is a brass bushing that wears and I have a strong suspicion that this contributes to the issue. I can tell you that after I replaced the bushing and the springs I did not have the over auto adjust issue again.

 

Your talking about the pivot point inside the bellcrank correct? Thanks for the help!!

 

Are you referring to the pivot point for the cables (in blue) or the bushing and bolt that pivot the entire thing? (in yellow and purple) if its the blue, is that a replace the whole cable or does Toyota make a replacement brass bushing for it? Thanks for the help!!

 

Would that still not effect both in some type of way? I don't think the block that splits it from the soft line to the 2 hard lines does anything else. Do you think it could be a deal were since that side has the shortest line it only effects that one side? Thanks for the help!!

 

Big_F
My 1st guess would be wheel cylinder, but u said you RR’d.
LSVP came up as failed me(and prior owner)
Anything’s possible with these old trucks….shortest brake line interesting, but not conclusive. BUT
I was helping a race friend bleed his car
3 corners NP, when we got to LR, the pedal would not move. Turned out to be a stuck PV on his Honda. Now ours are more complicated bc senses weight at same time as opening valve(s) to rear drums

 

Here is my thread on my delete

as I re-read thread……
Look at post #14 by Bivovac
He describes much easier way to delete

now in your case, you could do Bivovac’s method…….to test your LSVP and determine if LSVP is the issue
Let us know!!!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lspv-delete-correct-return-lines.820615/

 

yes, under the boot. Your truck doesn't look very rusty so I doubt that's the problem after seeing the photo, but it's simple enough to check it.

 

Does Bivovac have a different thread on testing the LSPV? Very curious on how you do that. Also never thought about deleting it, what are the pro's and con's?
Thanks again!

 

Checked it all last night and doesn't stick at all, seems really clean actually. What Glamisman said about the over adjusting is what im leading towards but I have to test more. I traded rust free for everything leaking oil. Regardless, Thanks for the idea and advice!

 

As far as pros/cons

when I confirmed mine was kaput
LSPV was $364
Screw that
Not like I’m hauling fridges/mulch every day

my delete project was $40 including fittings

28yr 140hp taco stops just fine

 

Looks like need to go to truck stop to use scales to test

 

Update:
Still need help
Never found out how to test the LSPV so that hasn't been tested but still it would affect both not just one... I think anyways. I have now replaced the drum, shoes, hardware, wheel cylinder, rear e-brake cable, the equalizer bar bushings AND the bolt (2 bucks might as well).
I haven't redone the drum since I put the bushing and bolt in. I plan on readjusting the drum soon as well as doing the hardware and shoes on the other side just to make sure the driver's side isn't working double time for some reason. The passenger side seems good and works fine but no harm in trying.
At this point I have not the slightest idea of what the ever living hell it could be. The only things that haven't been replaced is the backing plate, perfectly straight besides the outer edge where it was bent to remove the drum after it gets stuck, the wheel bearings that was replaced 3 years ago due to the seals leaking into both drums, and the bellcrank which does wiggle side to side (don't know if it's normal or not).
If anyone has any other ideas please say them, be my savior

 

I had a similar issue after a brake rebuild. Believe it was shoe misaligned slightly and over adjusted parking brake. Pulled drum a couple times and loosened the adjuster back up and things settled in.

 

Even after constant use of the e-brake? I see you drive stick too. Did it just kinda wear in and find its happy place?

 

Yeah but I had to adjust it a couple times, from the inside. If it’s the e brake over tightening it you will have trouble getting the drum off. Those adjusters inside the drum seem a bit fickle to me. Just double check everything while you are in there. Look at the wear on the shoe.

 

I had this problem on the '94 (same rear drums) and the only thing that fixed it were Genuine Toyota brake shoes from my local dealer. The geometry for the automatic adjuster (as we're well aware) is critical.