having codes 302 mainly, however i get 300, and 303 once in a while as well

kingbelga, I had similar readings on Cylinder 3 and higher (yet too low) on cylinder 4 on my 3RZ. I went ahead and pull the cylinder head. After pulling it, I had a bad crack between the #3 and #4 exhaust valve. It was definitely NOT going to keep going. If it is a burnt valve, you can definitely do that over a weekend without pulling the motor (it is a lot of work inside the truck). Make sure you have a shim kit as you will have to check and adjust most of the shims. Watch your coolant carefully if you are going to keep driving it. If the head develops a crack and you start burning coolant (or mixing with oil) you will have a much bigger job ahead of you.

 

Another risk of continuing to drive it like it is would be the possibility of hydro-locking the motor and maybe bending a rod if the source of that coolant consumption gets worse all of a sudden.

At this stage your bottom end is likely fine (or at least in serviceable condition). So I'd suggest finding a way to either fix this soon or park it and use alternative transportation until you can. Otherwise the scope of your repairs could get much bigger.

 

thanks man

 

ok well then, ill park it unless its an emergency, which i hope wont happen. shit i have a harmons blck away, target, lowes, and the damn hospital is one block away. im a single father so its hard man, but atleast my kid has the bus, thank god. suckts though this is why i bought a toyota, didnt think this shit happend on them, lol crap well its been a good 22 years.

1. ill wait till my apt with my buddy to give it a leak down test, but yeah seems im in a crapy spot
2. then if its a head job or whatnot ill buy a beater and then take my time working on it, probly take me days as i tend to walk away when i get irritated or tired and leave it for a while. (makes things easier rather than pressing on irritated and make mistakes)
3 if its burnt valves or what not thats a signifiganly cheaper reapair almost 1/4 the cost and i just may have him do it. but i am a tight wad and do like doing shit myself, so may do that 2, lol


any suggestions if i do do it in my carport, its enclosed on 3 sides but can blow. if i leave it should i cover the underside to keep dust out or do you think just covering it up and closing the hood will suffice?

 

Your number 2 cylinder is DEAD.

Burnt exhaust valve? Burnt intake valve? Hole in your piston? Cylinder head failure? Piston rings left the chat? I dunno.

But at 0 psi, your #2 cylinder is DEAD.

Quit farting around and trying different testers hoping you will get a different answer.

It is time for an engine disassembly.

 

Just covering the open (top) end of the motor with something and closing the hood should be just fine.

 

thanks guys, i really appreciate ya. ill probly have tons o questions when i tear this bugger down.

ill have my guy quote me some cost, but im sure ill half to do it myself. ..............................
now the problem is, wtf parts will i need, i know ill half to open it up, but shit then what, lol unless its obvious im not gonna know shit besides seals. i am an alternator and starter rebuilder and installer, not a mechanic. ive replaced the powersteering pump, clutches, throttle bodies, brakes, alternators, starters, belts, drivelines, shit i can take most anything apart (glorified parts changer lol). But ill give it a shot


also question 2: should I return these denso injectors and get my money back or keep them and replace the old ones when doing this job as i will have them out and the number 2 injector leaking may have caused all this?

 

I would personally return those injectors. I'd rather have that $$$ back in my pocket for now. You may not even need them. That your #2 fuel injector failed is speculation at this point.
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Since we have a pretty darn idea of what you're facing, which is an engine failure, I wish to offer the following supportive suggestions. You have some difficult decisions ahead.
----------------
Note: ==> It may still run. And that's great. A "runner" is always better than an engine that is locked up or went kaboom. But the reality is you have pretty much one side of your engine that isn't contributing to the whole Suck-Squeeze-Bang-Blow compression cycle thing. Cylinders 2 & 3 for sure. Ouch. So that is indeed an engine failure. No sugar coating this.

With this perspective in mind, I wish to respectfully suggest this is not an instance where you can pull a valve cover, and expect a simple low or no cost repair. I do not wish to be a buzzkill, but I wish to be realistic and offer you good advice to consider.

If you park it now, you are minimizing the likelihood of ongoing engine damage and your "runner" instantly turning into one giant paperweight or doorstop. So I agree with others who have suggested you park it and just take a week or so and think about things.
---------------
1) You have been blessed you if you are 22 year owner of a Gen 1 and your truck has lasted this long. Indeed, budget issues may still be real, as they are for me and most of us, but think about all the $$$$ you didn't have to spend over the past 22 years. Please, thank you, and hallelujah. Let us not overlook the silver lining in a proverbial grey cloud.

2) Somehow, someway, and I don't have the exact methodology to offer you, but you *will* need to think about "cost-forward" economics.
In a nutshell, that boils down to the following basic question(s):

>>>What is the cost, or range of costs, to repair this truck correctly? Notice I used the word 'correctly'. I did that on purpose.
>>>And is it worth it?
----------
As a best case scenario to get you back on the road, you are looking at a reconditioned bank 1 cylinder head. Complete timing chaing set from Toyota. Plus all the accessories like the head gasket, new spark plugs, oil, coolant, serpentine belt, thermostat, and more. E.g., cam and crankshaft sensors. Best case reasonable scenario IMHO. That's $2500 if you can do *all* the labor yourself. Engine still in the truck. That is one optimistic scenario IMHO. Everything must go right, you cannot make any mistakes, and that assumes you don't have metal shavings everywhere in your oil pan. Start there - drain your oil and pull the oil pan first!
--------------
As a more reasonable scenario, you are looking at a remanufactured engine swap. Where you are able to remove the engine yourself and replace it yourself.

>>>>I wish to gently dissuade you from the notion of rebuilding your own engine. In your carport. With sincere respect, that is wishful thinking. You will need machines to bead blast, bake, align hone, bore hone, and true up (square) your engine block. Deck your cylinder heads. And more. Even if you can correctly and subsequently order all the right +0.003 pistons, rings, crankshafts, connecting rods, bearings, pistons rings and much much more, You will likely spend just as much on a reman engine.

By the time you disassemble everything, order parts and what not, it would be just as cost effective for you to purchase a reconditioned engine. NOT from eBay. Not from a salvage yard. Not from Amazon. A reconditioned engine - which will have been run tested and come with at least a 3/36 warranty will cost you $5000.

From a company like PowerTrainProducts. Correctly matched to your exact engine such that you can reuse expensive items like the PCM, transmission, and a whole lot more.
---------------
Based on your replies above, you have a darn good chance of achieving this type of outcome even in a carport. You will need pro tools and 90 day paid subscription access to a service like Ident-a-Fix or Autel or ProDemand (about $100). The diagrams and information will save you hours and hours of guessing and not knowing what to do.
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So...... within a reasonable cost range, you are looking at $2500 - $5000 to get your Taco's engine running again. Correctly. Where it will run 3-5 years without further issue.
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Meanwhile, you need to use KellyBlueBook (kbb.com) to estimate the current value of your truck. KBB is terrific and very realistic.
>>> What is the truck worth in its current condition? Make sure you describe the condition it as Fair which means mechanical repairs are required.
Maybe $3500? $4500?
---------------

Again, this is complicated and emotional. I wish to offer nothing but support. In some cases, it is better to take the proverbial bird in hand as opposed to two in the bush.

HTH and best wishes,
AE

 

I just dont get it. kinda wish id bought a kia if i only get 180k then garbage. JK ha

But seriously. my engine looks brand new still. no leaks not even a drop anywere. it runs exactly how it has since i bought it. theres no oil loss. No antifreeze in the oil whatsoever. theres no metal shavings, not a one, ive dropped the pan. there is absolutely no over blow in the coil over and sparnck plug holes, completely clean. and i sure as hell aint blowing smoke. so what the f.

yep it has a low reading nearly 0 on 2 but it still starts on first turn with no gas applied, and fires fine unless you idlle to long. coolant loss is like maybe a pint in 2 months so it must burning with the fuel.(its never been low in the radiator, its just that i notice the reservoir tank was low in the last 2 months or so, maybe pint) you wouldnt even know something was wrong if i could turn up the idle, lol it wouldnt even misfire.
I aint got even a puny loss in power, it seems fine, minus the damn misfire at low idle.

jesus, when my ford blew a valve it blew smoke like a bitch. pretty much had to park it.
and when my chev blew its head gasket, f, it smoked like a chimney and was powerless.


im gonna let my mechanic, who only does toyotas, take a peak. he doesnt charge me shit if he thinks i can do it myself. and im sure he will do great if i need it. (rare to have a guy you can trust, but ive known him my whole life)

bigcarbonfootprint................... I agree bud, i totaly love your reply, i so like people to be honest and kind, not nice, nice is a lie....however i ask you this:

why the f would it matter if it is needing a new motor, or rebuild i mean, then wtf does it matter if i drive it if i half to replace it anyways, lol
right now ive parked it, because it may be very little damage and can be repaired and i dont want to do more damage. but if its going to need a new rebuild, i say f it im driving it till it dies. lol (within reason, close to home, lol)

well see what my man says, then ill go from there. but yeah i aint rebuilding no engine in my carport, im a glorified parts changer, it would just be mayhem. im a perfectionist and like you said you dont just replace a gasket you fix everything when your inside, and i wouldnt really know unless its obvious.

thanks guys you all are so awesome.

ill let you all know what happens on august 25th when my man looks at it. hes been working exclusively on toyotas especialy tacomas for over 45 years. so hes probably like you all, but hell have hands on look at my baby not just me spuing words, lol

But yeah bigcarbon........i shouldnt complain, it has been a great 22 years and at least 60k is off road, and the rest of the truck is so perfect and useful and not big and bulky like the new ones (yuk) i will definatly do what i can to keep it another 22 years. even if i need an engine. may take longer to get the cash but I will do it!

Its my pride and joy. It took me till i was 30 till i bought my first and only new vehicle, my taco. last year they made my favorite (gen1), i made it. i bought the stomper I had as a kid but in real life size.
ill do whatever to keep it. even if i half to buy a driver while i do what i need.


im glad i found this community, you all are just a fantastic bunch, THANKYOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

keep ya posted.

 

Great stuff.

In hindsight, I was hoping for the more optimistic outcome. If your engine is otherwise still running fine, you *might* get away with a simple head gasket. And not even have a need to have that side cylinder had re-conditioned or replaced. Pray tell, maybe not even a timing chain.

Sounds like you have the perfect person to look at it.

FTW!