Long Travel BS Thread

From my knowledge, most all of the above.
Weight distribution:
Most all trucks, even LT, will jump nose down due to the engine being mounted over the front wheels. Bed looks mostly empty so it will naturally be pushed up higher hitting the same bump the front did.
Spring rate:
Not to say your leaves are too stiff, I can’t tell that from one video where I can’t see the rear axle move and hit the bump, but again with a relatively or empty bed (that as you said is designed to carry additional weight) the springs will most likely be overly stiff for this specific purpose of absorbing a bump or off a jump lip.
You could have a very low spring rate, but then adding even 100lbs to the bed would make it sag for towing, loads, or even offroad driving.
Tuning shocks:
Again, I can’t tell this from the video. I’ve no idea if the rear suspension bottomed out over the jump face or hardly compressed. Too soft or too firm valving could cause the tear end to buck up over bump(s).
Throttle:
Generally it’s a good idea to have moderate throttle off the face of a jump, on bikes, trucks, quads etc.
Chopping the throttle right before will cause the nose to dive more than steady moderate throttle.

Overall, leaf spring trucks that have motors in stock location, which is 90% of trucks, will always nose dive a bit. Lots of weight like multiple spare tires, fuel cells, even lead bricks (I’ve seen it before) over or behind the rear axle will help combat this and help them jump more level.

Another factor: jump lip length
In general, finding a lip that is at least as long as the trucks wheelbase is from bottom to top is preferred, that way the front axle doesn’t start to dip before the rear axle has begun to hit the same lip.

see this video of my truck, LT, but still stock motor and leaf springs. It hunts for penny’s on the floor even with a long pretty steep lip/hill at about 40mph.
I definitely need a few hundred lbs out back. To help combat this.
https://youtube.com/shorts/qFchvGDtt7c?si=P-S50jVaDL1aqgxS

Look up “flight school” from all American sender on YouTube, he has a pretty good series that explains how trucks jump, how to hit certain lips, what plays a factor in how truck move in the air etc.

 

Anyone here have a 2nd gen double cab with Hannemann glass front and rear?

 

Is it safe to call it long travel when it pulls just as much as some long travel kits out there?

 

I assume there is some context I'm missing lol.

you have uppers and lowers there...

 

It’s just mid travel. But sadly pulls almost as much as my +4 lol

 

With stock CV? How much is it pulling? I could only get 11 with my stock before it would bind on my +2. I added some of the new long field ones and got it to 12.25.

 

Dirt king has some of the best products out I think. Never did measure the wife’s 4runner with co and uca’s since I didn’t do lcas, but it performs so good for a mid travel setup. And yeah, I’d bet their mid travel pulls as much as an unnamed 2.25 kit that maxes out metal to metal at just over 11”.

 

Cycling 10.625”. My +4 cycles 11.625”

 

Holy shit. WTF +4 did you have?

 

I don’t want to get drug today

Should be enough info, right?

 

yeah I guess I could go dig thru your build page...

 

Its totally possible to achieve pretty close to what the 4+ claims...just takes work, like anything else

We got the 4+ kit to cycle close enough to the 14" to say.. Yeah it does the 14" as its claimed. My stock OEM Inner Tie Rods started to bind at 13.5" when cycling, so its strapped at 13".



Here's the summery ..
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...el-and-934-cv’s.626274/page-920#post-30645946

 

You will not do it with heim steering. That I can promise you. And my CV’s bind well before that anyways.

 

after looking thru - this has a bit of the same problem I have encountered before... a need for an angled shank rod-end to change the "nominal" position of the joint... like they have for some hotrod bushing-shank setups
https://barnes4wd.com/products/9-of...width-9-16-bolt-hole-7-8-14-right-hand-thread

having a Rod-end like this would be neat... it would be abit weaker, but idk how much, just more buckling risk for the tie-rod in some loading scenarios. I've heated/bent some before to get the extra bit of travel but I'm a hack so...

 

This is why spindle kits trump everything. But with that said I know there are guys rocking DK kits and heim steering pulling 13 all day long. The biggest downfall of my kit is its down travel dominant. This makes plunge and tie rod angle an issue. I’m strapped right at the point CV bind goes away. And it’s probably not what I would call “safe”.

 

That looks so nice and cycling 10.625" on stock length arms is impressive. I have had my eye on the DK +2" kit and hoping to get close to 12" out of it.

Are those LCA mounting gussets all custom or part of a kit? Also I may have missed it but what was the final outcome of the ram assist for the steering rack?

 

Are y'all using the OEM dust shield with your front spindle?

I'm considering removing mine when I replace the wheel bearings.

 

gone and never looked back. really haven't noticed any more filth on the suspension than normal.

 

Running TC gussets with heavily massaged dust shields. Rotors still scrape a little when cornering hard. Might just ditch them.