Location of power window relay

First off I wanted to say that this forum is extremely helpful. I found the wiring diagrams and service manual for my 2016 tacoma on this forum.

All of my windows quit working. I pulled the driver door panel and tested the heavy red and white/black wire for voltage and couldn't find any. I even tested the heavy red and heavy black. I suspect it's the power window relay.

Do you guys know where it is located? It doesn't seem to be in the engine bay fuse box. I tried snooping around the fuse box under the driver side dash and couldn't see anything over there.

Mark

 

The window power relay is mounted within the Fuse/Junction box. Soldered to the PCB. The only exception is the two relays for the rear slider window. There is also a 30Amp fuse on the side of the junction box most never realize is there, there are three of the 30Amp fuses in a row, very hard to see and to get at.

Suggest you attach to this thread the wiring diagram you are using to investigate this problem.

 

Depends which power window setup you have but I'm assuming you have the auto windows since you said heavy Red and White/Black wires.

If this is the case main Power on the Red wire comes from the Door F/L Fuse (20A) in the interior fuse box.

 

Unfortunately it's not easy removable, it's part of the Driver' side Junction Box inner Circuit.

 

Good morning,

I am using this power windows with jam pdf. Thank you guys for the heads up. What a mind boggling design. So do people actually replace these relays if they're soldered on? Or do people just replace the whole PCB?

 

PCB replacement most. Very few replace and resolder.
But still, very indeed it's just the relay and not something else/also, like the Body ECU wire to it.

 

Did you read my post?
If your missing Power on the big Red wire at the Master Switch it can't be the relay.

 

@Dm93 Yes, sorry forgot to respond. The fuse was intact, although I didn't check to see if the fuse was receiving power.

 

My suspicion would be that the wire may be broken in the door flex, have you tried the windows while moving the door back and forth?

 

Let's take your mind off the relay for starters since it is the hardest thing to replace/repair and focus on the more likely and easier to fix options. You may have already considered all the below mentioned things, but I/we need to know definitively. Please do not think I am ignoring what you have previously stated - I am writing this not just for your current problem, but for others to become more aware and educated about their vehicle

With the truck running:
Are you sure "ALL" of your window controls do not work? Have you gone to the switch on the left rear door and tried it? Likewise, the other two doors as well. Not just the driver's MASTER control! Test both up and down. What are the position(s) of the window lock out button(s) on the driver's/master control? If the Master control is dead the other window controls can be left in multi-functional states.

Have you checked by removing and testing for continuity all the fuses concerning the window power shown in your appropriate schematic? INCLUDING THE 30AMP POWER FUSE that is so hard to find and get to on the side of the fuse/junction box. There are three purple 30Amp fuses located together, I believe it is the one towards the front of the vehicle IIRC, I may not, check all three or at least the middle one too; I do have a strong recollection the rear fuse is for the power seat. You might find it easier to remove or loosen the fuse/junction box to get to these fuses.

Normally there is power to all the window controls, and the master controls them via the LIN. The LIN is a data connection much like the CAN BUS, but a slower speed and only uses one wire. The LIN goes through the BCM, which is attached to the Fuse/Junction box.


Unless you are an electronics hobbyist or better, I would refrain from soldering the power relay on the Junction box. The PCB is a multilayer board, and you may break connections between the layers as you unsolder the relay pins from the though holes. I would try it myself but have the ability to procure another fuse/junction box in case I failed on standby.

Please answer each question with an affirmative statement, not a general "I've done that".

I see there have been some additional posts since I started composing this reply:
I see NO large red wire at my Drivers Master window control (Access Cab), only small wires; the large wires go directly to the window motors to supply the motor current. This small red wire is supplied by an equally small 5AMP fuse "MPX-B". Is it good?

Your OP says you pulled the door panel, not at all necessary, you just need to pry up the door/window/mirror control assembly for assess to the control wires and connectors.