3rd Gen Tacoma 4X4 v6 replacing stock tires

Hey guys/gals. I'm new here. I want to get new tires and rims for my 3rd Gen Toyota Tacoma, and I need some advice please. My truck is all stock OEM. It's a V6 4X4 with the tow package, SR5. My current tires are 245/74R16. I want to stay away from lift kits if I can. I was thinking of 18in rims and tires. I want the truck 2-3in higher off the ground and I want to close that huge gap between the tire and fender wall like maybe only have. 2-3in gap and not a 12in one... What tires can I get that would best fit what I'm looking for?? Thank you all for your help.

 

None. You wont be able to put a 4-6" larger diameter tire on that truck without significant modification. If you want to go 18's, you can fit 275/70R18 (about 2.5" larger diameter) on a +15 offset wheel and only need to massage the fender liner and mud flap (if equipped). If you want the truck 3" higher using tires alone, you will have to go with 37's which involves a lot of cutting, welding, beating, suspension upgrades, steering upgrades and gearing. So for about $20,000 you can achieve what you are wanting. Or you can stick with a stock tire size and deal with the way it looks.

 

Retool your desires OP, they just don't align with reality and physics! Just go "plus one" from your current size and be happy.

 

Consider keeping your OEM wheels and upgrading tires to 265/75/16. Expect a modest impact to fuel economy and drivability.

 

Not to be the resident a$$hat,

But there is no such thing as a 245/74R16 tire.

If you want your truck to be 2-3" higher off the ground, and to run bigger wheels, then you will need a lift kit.

There are numerous threads on DIY, first time set ups in this forum. They are worth their weight in gold to read.

 

As soon as you go with aftermarket rims, you run the risk of rubbing. If you buy rims that have the same offset, you could get away with 33" pizza cutters.

(255/85/16). This will give you around 1"+ lift.

 

You don't need a lift if you have a grinder and a welder.... unless you do s drop bracket lift or a body lift everything that was in the way before the lift is still in the way once the suspension is cycled....

To op,
As stated without major modifications your not fitting a 35 which is about what would be required to gain 2" of ground clearance no lift. There are a few manufacturers that make a skinny 35 that would be easier to fit but I'm pretty sure those options only exist in a 17" wheel. I would scrap this plan

It's all possible but your looking at cab mount relocate removing fender liners likely tubbing the firewall or at the least hammering it back.

Now, in reality the largest stock fitment is a 255/80r17 or 255/85r16 this only applied to low offset wheels. 0 or less and you will want a narrow wheel to go with it. The most optioned stock wheel fitment is a 265/70r17 or 265/75r16 these can be done in an 18 if you really want at a 265/65r18 but I would expect that sizing less common compared to the others.
Wheel specs will make up alot of the look on the truck going to a 0 offset with any of the above sizes will make it look much better with the least head ache. You may have to lose the mud flaps and plastic mold a little or do absolutely nothing. Every truck is a touch different.

 

255/85-16 (from stock 31" to 33" dia.) would be an easy fitment on stock wheels, though your tire choices are limited. 255/80-17 (same 33" tire size on 17" wheels) opens up far more tire choices. You can get 17" TRD Sport takeoff wheels from 2005-2023 Tacomas on FB Marketplace for relatively cheap.

 

Skinny 33s will fill the wheel well and may not rub. Lift though is going to be nowhere what you're looking for.

 

Thanks guys for all your answers and input. I may have typed my tire size in wrong. They are 245/75R16, my mistake. Is the second number the tire height or width? I'm not very mechanically inclined. Instead of making my truck a bit higher off the ground, how bout just a bit taller of a tire? There is a 5in gap between the tire and fender well/wheel well. I think that's what it is. Would a tire that is 2in taller still work and look good? What tire size would that be?

 

This might help you:
https://www.discounttire.com/learn/...xS6Sf7K8rzO6ZqMVo1xLN95eKd9X8UPhoCP40QAvD_BwE

 

I wanted a 'bigger' look on my stock 2021 as well without the lift.
I replaced my stock Firestones, which were trash at 15,000 miles ( 3 rotations! ) with same size Wildpeaks.

They look bigger, feel better, drive and ride better, and when I do take it on rough roads I feel good about the performance.
Nice street manners as well.

After 10,000 miles I'm glad I put these on. I had previously put a set on my wifes Forester and was blown away by how good they
looked and how well they felt. So I put a set on my Tacoma.

 

A tire that is 2" taller than the current size will make the truck sit 1" taller and fill the wheel well gap above the tire by 1"

Like others have said a 255/85R16 is the tallest tire you will fit without cutting and grinding. That size comes in at 33.1" or 2.6" taller than your current tire.

The Falken Wildpeak A/T4W comes in this size and will fit your OEM wheels.






I have the skinny 35 from Kenda 35x10.50R17 and I have a Cab Mout chop, fender liners removed, high clearance front bumper and I still rub a bit on the frame and inner wheel well at full lock and bump.

 

The first number is the tire width in mm. The second is the ratio of the width to the sidewall height. The third number is the rim height.

So, a 245/75/16 is 245mm wide, the sidewall is 75% of the width on a 16" rim.

245 x .75 = 183.75. 183.75 x 2 (there are 2 sidewalls) = 367.5. 367 ÷ 25.4 (mm in an inch) = 14.47. 14.47 + 16 = 30.47.

Like I said above, a 255/85/16 on stock offset wheels should fit in your wheel wells without rubbing. That's a skinny 33, about 2.5" taller that the stock.

 

The only way to get the truck 2-3" higher off the ground is to go with 4-6" taller tires. You need that 12" gap between the tires and fenders for wheel articulation when driving off road. It doesn't do much good to have taller tires if they have no place to go when you drive over uneven terrain. The taller tires would be useless without fender clearance.

Your best bet is to simply move up to 265/75/16's. That is a 1" taller tire (32") that will set your truck up about 1/2" taller than it is now. There is no downside, no lift required, and no noticeable loss of performance with a 265/75/16. Any bigger and you create a domino effect of other necessary changes.

You'll have to go to much heavier, much more expensive tires to go to a 33" tire that will ride poorly on the road and cut fuel mileage significantly. You'll need to lift the truck to fit them. You'll see a noticeable loss of performance and that may require a regear. And with all the modifications you'll wear out wheel bearings, CV Axles, U-Joints, and other steering and suspension parts much faster. The truck becomes a money pit always in need of repair.

To get the truck 2-3" higher off the ground requires 35" tires which increases problems and expenses exponentially.

There are darn few places a skilled driver can't go with 32" tires. If you really want to go to 35's just be prepared for the expense and downsides. To do it right.

245/75/16

The 1st 3 digits are the width of the sidewall in millimeters.
The 2nd set of digits are a percentage. The distance between the ground and bottom of the rim is 75% of the sidewall width. Or 75% of 245 mm., or 183.75mm.
The 3rd set of numbers is the wheel diameter. About 31" tall overall

A 265/75/16 is 265 mm wide at the sidewall
It is 75% of the width between the ground and bottom of the wheel, but 75% of 265 is 198,75mm which also makes it a taller tire.
It is also on a 16 " wheel. About 32" tall overall

A 285/75/16 is wider and taller as well. About 33" tall. But 285 series tires are much more expensive as I explained above.


My truck with 265/75/16's and a 2" lift. I didn't need the lift. Drove the truck with this size for years with no lift. But I wanted more clearance for the tires to articulate inside the fenders.

 

Not necessarily true. My 255/85s, while heavier, still ride well, it's not a Cadillac, but it isn't a lumber wagon either. My gas mileage went up since the switch from 265/75s...without a regear. A tune definitely helps, but I wouldn't think it's a must.

My 33s fit from full extension to full stuff without rubbing. (Well, I did have very minor rubbing initially, but a heat gun and a bit of elbow grease solved that. I'm running 1" spacers, which I'm sure caused the rubbing.) A lift doesn't provide clearance. It only delays when you'll rub (what part of the suspension stroke), that is if you will rub.

As for maintenance, that's debatable. It all depends on how you drive - on road and off. It also depends on how you maintain your vehicle. I've seen people have more problems with their 'babied' princesses. I will agree with you when you move to a 35. At that point, you are always adding considerable extra strain to bearings, drive, and suspension components. Getting to a 35 is adding not only tire height/diameter, you're also going considerably wider than stock.

I will say that a 265/75 tire is visually a substantial improvement in the looks of the truck. The pizza cutters were a good next step.

 

I always suggest to someone like you to go to a really good reputable tire shop (not in a grocery or department store) and ask for and only talk to the manager or owner.

 

Thanks again everyone. I understand metric really well. I went to college to be a chemist. I'm just not a mechanic is all. I don't know anything other than basic maintenance when it comes to vehicles. Sorry if I wasn't making any sense about what I was asking. I don't know anything about tires. I know how to change and tire and air then up that is all. I can change my oil, air filter and battery. That's all the mechanic knowledge I have. I greatly appreciate all your help and input, I really do. Thank you everyone. It really does help me so I can learn alongside with you guys/gals.