Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

The tank is from 1945, the pump may be newer. I believe there should be set of numbers stamped into the lower flange of the pump down where the mounting bolts are.

Using that you can identify the size, year and revision number.
Then you can start searching for a diagram here: https://quincyliterature.myrevbase.com/

 

Just be aware.

These compressors will run for a 100 years with no problem because they spin at such a low RPM.

Because they are so long lifed you need to be careful of the tank.
Compressors make water along with compressed air. The water sits at the bottom of the tank and will rust the tank if the tank was not drained of condensation on a regular basis.

Hopefully this tank is newer than the compressor and that is not an issue.

 

Numbers aren't on the flange - they are on that tag on the crankcase cover.

I have a QR also, powered by a 2 cylinder Wisconsin engine, the unit weighs just under 1200 pounds.

 

Very true, I tested my 1960 tank before putting it in service, easy to do and the pump wasn't expensive for the piece of mind provided.


More info:
https://letsfab.in/hydro-static-pressure-calculation/

Important:
You want to pressurize to 1.3 times the maximum working pressure listed on the ASME data plate welded to the tank. Do not use the more is better logic, use the proper test pressure and no more.

Working pressure of 200 psi X 1.3 = 260 psi test pressure
Working pressure of 150 psi X 1.3 = 195 psi test pressure

At test pressure I worked the tank seams over with a rubber mallet.

This is the pump I used:

$143 Steel Dragon Tools 50557 Model 1450 Pressure Test Pump Hydro Static 860 PSI & 3/4" Connector

$143 Steel Dragon Tools 50557 Model 1450 Pressure Test Pump Hydro Static 860 PSI & 3/4" Connector

https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Dragon-Tools-Pressure-Connector/dp/B00460UDK2

 

You guys are awesome.

Just didn't want to take it apart & not be able to fix it. On way out to look for those numbers...

Had this for several years & it is quiet & obvious slow rpm. Thts why I liked it... Only gave a couple hundred for it.

Yes I do drain the tank often.

 

And hopefully change the oil occasionally too, use 20 grade non-detergent oil.

 

And they so quiet! They just make a comfortable pumping sound when they run. Anything made today is slapped with a 3600 rpm electric motor that just is annoyingly loud!

 

In the garage at home there is a 1944 Curtis compressor, many times I would think "I'll just close my eyes until the compressor shuts off" -- guess who shuts off first.

The 1960 Wayne compressor at the garage turns at 376 RPM.

 

exactly!! thats one of the reasons i bought this one. when went to dudes house & he fired it up... i went oh yeah i'll take this one. very comfortable in the shop with no hear gear.

although right now it sounds completely DIFFERENT. not loud. just different.

oh & that plate isnt on there... no numbers on that thing anywhere. it looks like it had a plate at 1 time... but it hasnt since ive had it.

so where do i start?

 

Remove the plumbing so you can take the head off. I would really be surprised if the pistons or the cylinders showed any wear.

You issue is going to be in the cylinder heads.

Take some pics and share with us. We got some serious Internet search power in this thread.

Make it happin', Cap'n!

 

Well, crap...

How many hopsepower is the electric motor? That will help narrow down the size.

Look here: https://www.engineservicesupply.com/contentonly.aspx?file=pdf/325L PARTS BOOK.pdf

Look at page 3 where it discusses the control version and compare to your unit, then in pages 10 - 20 you should find a diagram of the valve assemblies similar to yours.

Notice you do not need to remove the head to service the valve on these units, everything comes out from the top.

 

For the folks following along this is approximately what we should find.

What happens is that the moving parts get sludge and hard carbon build up usually from:
1) lack of maintenance
2) using the incorrect oil (multi-grade detergent automotive oil)
3) compromised air filtration

The danger is that carbon can break off, end up in the cylinder and score it.

 

Okay I can see how that'd work now, thanks

 

ok so i want to take the upper head off but not the jug area ... right?

its a 7hp motor. but for sure its not original.


will try to get out there this afternoon. had to cut grass this morning. taking my first break.

 

Yep, the upper head as shown in the diagram above.

 

Oh I hadn't picked up that that diagram was exactly what I'm about to take apart. Gulp.

 

I got tired of messing with 5 gallon cans and bought a 50 gallon tank and made a pallet for it and load it in the truck when I need to refill it. Just loaded it yesterday.

 

Interesting looking nozzle you got there. Or is that a sheath for it?

 

Minutes ago, some 30' 4" closed C purlin
Some 24' 6" open, 20 ' 4" sq tube plus 12 's
Over load it and lol , something happens. I need to repair the far top leg so it's better captured.

 

I’d maybe move those “legs” out to the edge of your bucket next to the side wall for better stability. Looks like the near one is bending the cutting edge.