Searching for the perfect lift for me! please lend me your advice and knowledge!!!

Hello! I’m brand new to the Tacoma world—and honestly, the modification scene in general—so any advice is greatly appreciated!
I currently have a 2020 TRD Sport that’s completely stock. I don’t plan on doing any off-roading; the roughest terrain my truck sees is boat ramps and bumpy gravel roads.

I know this is a question that has been asked alot, but I've honestly struggled to find concise information that isnt refuted by others. (the common one being spacers and their harm)
Goals:
- Lift the truck 2.5"–3"
- Something that lasts 75,000+ miles without causing extra wear on other parts
- Eventually fit 33" wheels
- Maybe have fun?
- support a after market front and rear bumper in the furture
Budget:
Under $2,000 (but if I can go cheaper while still keeping good quality, that would be even better).

These are some of the kits I’ve been looking at so far. If you know anything about these brands, whether they’ll fit my goals, or if you’d recommend other kits, I’d love to hear your thoughts!

- https://**********/products/ome-nit...-front-shocks-assembly?variant=47635726205168
- https://**********/products/bilstein-b8-6112-5160-2-inch-tacoma-rwd-16-23-lift-kit-w-ome-leaf-springs?variant=47828994294000&Facet=Year/2020/Make/Toyota/Model/Tacoma
- https://www.extremeterrain.com/supr...ch-rear-pro-billet-lift-kit-tyta05fk3020.html
- https://www.extremeterrain.com/roug...rear-leaf-springs-74232.html#customer_q_and_a

Once again thanks for any help!

 

Your goal for the lift is just for looks? I’d save your money and keep it stock.

 

Just trying to personalize my car in a way that I like!

 

Scratching my head on some of your goals and drivers. First off lets just say that this desire for a lift is entirely for looks, and there is nothing wrong with that. It actually will help define your end product choices knowing this is just for "fun" as you put it. Secondly there is no way anyone can assure or even predict how long your lift will last and even more so that it won't have any impact on other suspension components. You really need to reverse your logic and assume it's going to have it's issues over time. Lifts take their toll on a vehicle and yours will too!

Good luck brother and welcome to TW

 

Front and rear bumpers hanging off front and rear, change the entire weight suspension dynamic unless they are stock weight replacement, which is not really possible.

You either start with bumpers and get suspension to hold them up to desired lift, or you go interim suspension for lift, knowing you will need to change spring strength again after adding bumpers.

 

Well said, I guess my brain was in a perfect world where things that dont break lol!

 

Awesome, good to know! So would doing Bilstein B8 6112's in the front and just a block in the back be a good option till I add weight and need to move on to a replacement leaf spring for the rear?

 

You can't lift over 2 inches without significantly effecting reliability. Even 2 inches in front is likely to cause some extra wear but shouldn't be anything crazy.

6112s at 2in or less in front would work great. I have mine set at 1.4in. In the back you can get a Toyota OEM 1in lift block and should be close to level with that setup in the front. If you want to upgrade shocks the TRD lift kit rear shocks are a good choice. If buying the components individually the TRD lift kit parts are actually cheaper than aftermarket despite being oem. You could even do the TRD lift kit front shocks if you want a more budget option than the 6112s. The 6112s are really nice though.....

 

Dont do more than a 1in block in the rear. Axlewrap will be awful and you will likely have vibration issues from your drive line angle.

 

I have been doing some more reaserch on the side and I also agree that 2 inches is the best lift for me. I have also heard the praise of the 6112s sung to much for me to skip out on those. As for the rear, If I decide to only do the 1in block and not replacement rear shocks how would that affect ride quality? Should I just bite the bullet and buy rear shocks to? Once again thank you for the tips guys!

 

Without replacing the shocks you will lose 1in of down travel. Not certain the length of the sport shocks but if they are similar to the off-road and 5100s then it may not be an issue on road. Lots of people run 5100s with blocks. Also you will notice a significant difference between the front and the rear although there is no 6112 equivalent for the rear so that is unavoidable. No downside to installing the blocks first and seeing how it rides. The rear shocks are very easy to swap.

In order to install the blocks you will need longer u-bolts. There are OEM ones available designed to go with the blocks. If you want a little extra off-road clearance you could also go with something like archive garages u bolt flip with his upgraded bump stops.

Upgraded bump stops are mainly important off-road but you will also notice a significant difference with speedbumps and other large bumps on road. If you want to stick with OEM u bolts then Perry parts rear bump stops are a good choice.

 

I went with Old Man Emu 2" coil springs in the front and the bilstein 5100's all the way around. For the rear lift, I used a 1.5" spacer block.
I kicked out the wheels 1.5" With a hub centric spacer block.
When installed correctly. they perform perfectly.
NO issues what so ever

 

I installed everything in my driveway. Team Oil Drop has a great video on how to lift your truck without the dangerous spring compressor. You may need to buy a couple of specialty tools if you dont have them already, but youll have them forever and a LOT cheaper than the labor costs to have it done

 

Just something of note….the 5100’s use a 5 position snap ring to adjust ride height. Eibach and perhaps upper level Bilsteins have a threaded collar that can be adjusted after installation. Just personal preference, but for me, threaded collar all the way.

https://www.shocksurplus.com/produc...3H-xu9kqRBFqGjkq8lmHmEzQjLqyFT-UaAgT6EALw_wcB

 

Having that adjustability after install might be a good thing.
Having said that I'm fine with my set up. I personally dont see me changing the lift on a routine basis. I would go with air shocks if I did.

 

The kit that you just linked has me really interested, I've been pretty hard set on Bilsteins but the Eibach are slightly cheaper and provide a little bit more lift, any drawbacks with eibach in your experience?

 

Looks like those are the same diameter as 5100s so that would be the better comparison not the 6112s.

 

I put Eibach on par with Bilstein. I’ve used their springs going back to the early 80’s. I believe they also make springs for other sellers, I’ve heard no complaints and in the world of forums, that says a lot.

Threaded collar allows for post install adjustments and makes it easier for your setup to evolve.

You could install the suspension first and run it at zero lift. You could add a 1” block and crank up the front. You could upgrade your leaf springs and crank up the front up more. You can dial in the rake to your liking.

I’ve seen more than one post about the snap ring position/lift being lower or higher than anticipated.

Hope this helps.

 

For your application (if you went without bumpers), I’d stick with 5100s all around, setting the front on the 5th perch netting a ~2inch lift with a 1inch block in the back.

Lifts the truck, makes it level, doesn’t break the bank. Maybe throw in some UCAs while you’re at it.

If you’re set on the 6112s, go for it. Just know that the suspension itself won’t clear 33s. You may or may not rub (most likely will). Won’t know until you do it.

Like another member said, if you’re adding extra weight with bumpers, other parts of the suspension will need to change to accommodate that new weight. I’d figure that out first and make your decision based on that.

 

Everyone knows 2/1" Bilstein 5100's are the best bang for the buck. Nothing larger than a 1" block in the rear is recommended to avoid axle wrap.