TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

That was the pullie I was thinking on buying what belt are you runing i have theg 3.8 at 5.5 psi with just injecting water no meth

 

Right now I am tuning my timing what is to far for the 1grfe on base or high octane table and do you guys match the high oct table and low oct table ???

 

Normalizing them effectively disables all knock control.

 

but why are people doing that if you not knocking seams silly vs just doing your high octane map. I made a post on hp tuners but it's tumble weed in the toyota section. why not just change the base timing so it's not effected at all? I am just trying to find out the highest timing you can run on base by just plus 1 the whole chart or max on high ocatain with the base left alone ? i can find peak numbneers on lots of motor but not the 1grfe

 

Let’s just say not everyone invests the time to do their own testing, find and read patents to understand how the operating system actually functions. The timing maps don't function like a typical LS, so doing "LS things" doesn't always yield the results you're looking for and can come with unintended consequences.

 

for example my supra a 7mgte you do not go over 12 dagress on base safe is 8 dagress 10 is stock and then at peak is 12 to 15 including the base map when running big boost then once ya know the numbers it's on to the dyno tell ya see your torq drop and then back down ect ect ect

 

Quick question, has anyone had the winch interfere with the water pump and/or the radiator location? I’m doing some preplanning for when I do my install.
I already know I’m going to have to relocate my reservoir like TegoTaco did due to my wiring in that corner.

 

Just a couple of days ago, was able to find a stretch of road…I hit 9.4psi on the gauge.

 

i relocated my pump more to the drivers side. had to cut one of the hoses down and then the other flipping it actually worked out.

 

At what point does someone need to upgrade injectors?

 

I think the TRD injectors are good for a while... Digging up search results…

 

You’re not out of injector. At 70% idc.

 

On these platforms, I’d stay as small as possible and only consider upgrading if you’re at 85+%

These ecu’s were not designed to run injectors much larger than the TRD units. Idle, driveability and fueling accuracy/precision is compromised. Even when tuned there are still side effects.

 

For the guys still using pulleyboys qwikchange hubs and pulleys, can you throw up a photo of how far you pressed your hub in so it wouldn't have alignment issues please? I've been battling this squeaking setup for years now and I'm absolutely OVER it now. Damn truck pisses me off, but it's been fairly reliable over the years so I'm okay with putting some long needed work into it.

I'm actually starting to wonder if part of the issue is the RPM belt that I have on it and the fact that it is the stock size or something.

I may need to have you revise my tune file because it knocks when the AC is on under light load. Highway RPM's basically with maybe about 25-30% pedal effort being put in to accelerate a little.

 

Random question - I dont' drive the truck that much these days (have a beater car for the occasional 1-3x drives a week in town), but I noticed the last trip I took that my Short Term Fuel Trims (STFT) and Long Term FT (LTFT) seemed higher than my memory said has been normal...

Actually, STFT seemed normal-in the range of like -1.x to 3.x, but the LTFT's seemed high in the 10-13 range according to the UltraGauge.

Truck is about 98k miles and I am due for regular maintenance (but I'm not motivated due to life things I won't get into): ~6k on engine oil, ~40k on spark plugs (Denso's, not Ruth's). Air filter has been cleaned semi-recently (AFE aFe Momentum FORCE CAI). I have a new PCV, plugs, oil/filter on hand.

Anything to be concerned about or that I should keep an eye on? Still on "stock" TRD Tune (sorry Justin.. i keep waffling on selling the truck for a van since my partner/dog HATE offroading and conserving cash since I'm federal-adjacent employed with uncertainty).

 

lol. Miss you guys.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...tricks-and-mods.518932/page-262#post-18129328

 

or, did you?

 

I miss you guys too. It's been a while since I've posted anything on here. Between my own physical issues, dealing with a 2 year old all day, house stuff, and dealing with my Camaro which doesn't want to stay fixed at the fuel injectors it's difficult to keep up with things. I still login at least once or twice a day though, so if anyone here tags me or has a question, I'm still here!

This was perfect. Thanks for referring me back to that my dude!

No I realized mine was never great from nearly the start. Especially after you made your post about it. I just couldn't remember if it was you @White lightning boosted Roostfactor @nudavinci64 or @loginfailed who showed the photos of the proper install distance for the Pulleyboys hub.

Edit: aside from gaffing the pulley paint up further and needing to lightly sand the face of the hub and the shaft just to beautify things up (it needs a small refresh anyways so I'm okay with all of it), the hub has now been pressed in the appropriate distance it needs to not squeak anymore. If the squeaking continues, I'll have to get a replacement belt, which is okay with me. I've probably been needing to replace it anyways because at this point the belt is years and years old and I need to get back there to clean some things up anyway. I'm just glad the alignment issue is definitely finally behind me. Any further squeaks will be isolated to other issues within the drive belt system.

 

This is for the newbies wanting upgrades.
URD Equal Length Headers

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/urd-equal-legth-headers.864794/