Brakes pulling left after Tundra upgrade SOLVED

I ordered up some whiteline bushings. I don't wanna spend $400+ in oem lower control arms atm and the warranty is just not worth getting another set of mevotechs. I actually have the old arms that came of the truck still. Debating on putting the new bushings in those or the mevo's....dang I am so glad to have finally found something to fire the parts canon at lol. I'll update the post as solved once I get the new bushings in this next week.

 

i am fighting this exact issue on my tacoma right now. I did front end in Oct. Mevotech upper and lower control arms, upper ball joints, OEM lower ball joints, R&P bushings, sway bar endlinks and now innner and outer tierods.

 

What did it look like when it moved? Any way to check with it up in the air?

 

If you watch the video I posted #58 you can see the rear of the arm shift in towards the frame when I hit the brakes. You may be able to manipulate the arm with a lever of some type when it's in the air. I didn't bother. Once I saw the video I knew they were trash. Getting a video of it is what finally solved the riddle. I've been chasing this issue for months.
I can post a picture of the bushings I pulled out. The drivers side had larger washers than the passenger side, it looks like a different bushing was used. Once out of the truck I ran an all thread through the bushing to twist it and it had A LOT of play.

I'm sorry to say you might have to pull it all apart again.

 

Something I just thought of and I will caution where I see alot of people make the mistake of is they will install the control arms and tighten the bolts wherever they land the when they load the suspension it puts the rubber bushing in a bind which will destroy it very quickly.

The proper way is to either tighten the bolts while holding the control arm approximately where it would be when the suspension is loaded or load the suspension then tighten the bolts.

 

I think you are 100% correct. When I put mine on I had the ball joint end up on a Jack stand to get it close during reassembly.

As a side note I just got the truck back from being aligned at 4Wheel Drive Specialties in Richmond, VA. They are the only shop that I have found near me that is willing to spend the time to do it right. Truck drives amazing.

 

Happy to hear you solved it. Rigged up a camera and mine appear to be moving inappropriately as well. Pissed. Pulled out the original control arms and tried to get the bushings out. One came out relatively well but a bunch of rust and very pitted inside the control arm and on the sleeve. The next two I tried destroyed themselves. The rubber and inner sleeve coming out in the outer sleeves seized inside the housing. So I need new control arms.
I'm debating whether not to contact mevotech and warranty them, hoping maybe I screwed up the install or it was just a bad draw. I looked a couple of Toyota dealerships for the control arms and only found the driver's side. I may be screwed.

 

If you want to reuse your stock arms this is a nice upgrade.
https://www.sonoransteel.com/produc...r-a-arms-1995-5-2004-toyota-tacoma-super-spec

 

I'd like to buy they are cooked. The sleeves are hammered. But concerned how much heat they took as well. If I'd know I'd have turned out the rubber and done the energy suspension.

 

You might be able to get a large washer and use the jack method to push it out with a bit of heat. I thought about the warranty road but decided I didn't want to wait on possibly another sub par part. What state are you in?

I had one set like your the rubber pushed out and left the sleeve. I had to slice it with a hack saw blade and peel it out. PIA

 

Im pretty sure that they don't use the sleeves. I got mine pretty warm when pressing mine out going to whitlines.

 

Interesting, I thought they all had sleeves.

 

Hmm didn't think about the hack saw blade idea. Did it score the control arm at all? The inside of the one that did come out (heat and jack method) is rough. The other two I got so hot the rubber started to smoke and the sleeve never did release.

 

The rubber starting to smoke is my que to start pushing lol. I don't think I cut all the way through with the blade. I scored it and then peeled it out with a flat blade screw driver.

That bit of rust looks fine, I'd just clean it up with some 220.

 

I could be wrong. But aftermarket arms don't require sleeves. As long as the bushings is the correct sizes I don't think you do. But I'll msg the company

 

I pressed sleeves out of my Mevo arms to put in the White lines. I guess if you don't see a sleeve maybe there is not one.

 

I was hoping to rebuild the factory ones with whiteline bushings. May take another cream at it later but it looks like the sleeve have become one with the control arm. They were hot enough the rubber was smoking but A chisel didn't budge them.
Suppose I could swap the bushings in the mevotech but considering my luck..

 

Here you go. Not sleeved.
https://adventuretaco.com/guide/ste...ement-on-a-1st-gen-tacoma-or-3rd-gen-4runner/

 

Sawzaw time !!

 

My bad I misunderstood you. I thought yulu meant the rubber bushing had no sleeve.