The ultimate headlight upgrade H4 (not LED or HID)

I followed this thread a few years ago.
Upgraded to higher wattage bulbs in my headlights and fogs.
Bought the harness kit for both, also wired the fogs to come on with the high beams (lots of forestry road driving).
Spent the money and bought OEM headlight housings too!

By far ive never had a better light combo. This setup kills any lightbar aux lights that ive seen. Bonus is that I never get bright lighted back unlike my new car with LEDs, 400 watts of Halogen !

 

My truck has the mod with the Headlight Solutions harness. Is there any reason I can't run some sort of aux light off of my passenger side's H4 headlight connector that is no longer in use? Considering installing a light bar behind the bumper and tying it into the truck's brights. I can't think of a reason this wouldn't work as long as I stay under 60 watts, but wanted to get some confirmation

 

Why a light bar? Why not use something that is legal to augment your brights.

 

I'm located in Tennessee, I should be ok to run a lightbar as the law reads "Every motor vehicle other than a motorcycle, road roller, road machinery or farm tractor shall be equipped with at least two (2) and not more than four (4) headlights, with at least one (1) on each side of the front of the motor vehicle." with the additional statement "Auxiliary road lighting lamps may be used, but not more than two (2) of the lamps shall be lighted at any one (1) time in addition to the two (2) required headlights".

I will acknowledge that I may be misunderstanding something, but since my fog lights turn off when the brights come on, I would not exceed the limit of 4 total lights with this hypothetical lightbar. It would still come down to whether I can get something that can be aimed so that "No spotlight or auxiliary lamp shall be so aimed upon approaching another vehicle that any part of the high intensity portion of the beam therefrom is directed beyond the left side of the motor vehicle upon which the spotlight or auxiliary lamp is mounted, nor more than one hundred feet (100') ahead of the motor vehicle", but that will be on me to research and execute. I am currently just checking to see if I can, in fact, use the extra H4 socket as a power source for this light.

 

When considering auxiliary lighting, and looking over your state codes, especially inspection codes, always search to see if the section of relevant code/law has any sort of references or definitions as to what is considered auxiliary lighting. E.g. references to SAE J581/J583 compliance.

There *are* lightbars with legitimate auxiliary high beam/driving light beam patterns, but most are not, being some variation of spot/flood/combo. Bear in mind, there are also maximum intensity/auxiliary lamp.

I would simply tie into the harness for a relay trigger, keeping the power drawn through the relay not the oem headlight harness as well as giving you the ability to wire a switch in to seperately turn on/off the aux light seperate from your headlamps. That way if a cop has an issue with the light you can at least demonstrate it is not hardwired with your highbeams.

 

I appreciate the write up, but my LEDs can be seen from space

 

Just installed the DSL +250 on my stock '14 headlight assembly. Also used the 3M restoration kit. Is it supposed to look yellow? I expected them to look white/blue per the packaging.

 

Ok, I'm confused. The bulbs you show in the picture with the packaging are not DSL 250's. That said, true DSL 250's would look somewhat yellow compared to what you show in the packaging picture.

 

Got a response from Daniel. "Those are indeed the +250s. They come in those boxes because they are based on those bulbs which, minus the light-stealing blue tint, put more light on the road than any other such bulb."

 

Interesting. My DSL 250's came in completely different (plastic) packaging.

 

Do you have a night front photo of your Taco?

 

My DSL 250's are in my 2006 Scion xB. I sold my Tacoma and bought a 4Runner back in 2021. Let me see if I can grab you a night shot later when it gets dark.

 

What was Mr Stern's response when you told him you expected that his bulbs would look blue/white as advertised on the packaging?

 

Those are definitely 5Ks if you look at the light on the ground.

Wouldn’t expect any blue in 5k.


I think it looks great FWIW.

 

Essentially anything claiming "extra white" is a scam. They have a blue-tinted glass, which changes the light color a little, but blocks light that would reach the road if the glass weren't tinted, so they give you less light than ordinary bulbs (not more).

Yup way brighter than stock. Just need to adjust the aim.

 

Yep—adjust it right into memaws eyes

 

figured id mention, i didnt want to do this ultimate headlight MOD (i dont doubt its effective and a good mod) but i simply put in these daybreaker OSRAM after finding someone suggesting them and i must say, perfect balance between that brighter/color over stock. they work well, here they are alongside my rigid d series pro ditch lights

 

to much light robbing blue filter coating
Phillips Racing GT200 or Danial Stern's DSL250 are better options for next time

 

Did the upgrade from the Osram Night Breaker 60/55W (first pic) to the DSL +250 (second pic).

 

Ok so I’ve read everything and it sounds great but I’m still confused on what I need to purchase. I know I need the harness and bulbs. But do I need the pro headlight, my factory one, or can I use an aftermarket one with the upgraded harness and bulbs?