TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Newbie here. Came across a supercharger for my Tacoma that I am hoping to purchase.

Seller says it’s all complete. He’s asking $3800 and maybe another $200 or less to ship to California.

My questions are:

Is $3800 a reasonable price for a used supercharger? I see these going for $6300ish new.

Can I install it on my truck that just broke 200k miles?

 

Regardless of the asking price for the used supercharger, I believe the general consensus was that it would be an addituonal $1-1.5k minimum to "freshen" up a used kit.

Personally, I don't think buying a used supercharger kit is worth it unless its pennies on the dollar. Buying a used supercharged truck is a different story.

 

"All Complete" doesn't guarantee that you wont' have to be digging, searching eBay and other places for the small parts to finish up the install. There were different "Fit Kits", so a supercharger that was installed on a 4runner or FJ or later 2nd gen may not have the parts you need to install on your 2007.

IF you want it to be a learning experience and you have time and patience, you may save some money in the end if it all works out. If you need to have it rebuilt, buy new rotors, a bunch of various parts to install, you'd probably be better off buying a brand new one for $6300.

 

Good points and something I was thinking as well but thought to ask the pros. Thanks for the feedback. Got some thinking to do

 

I would try to get photo proof of all the additional fit kit parts The seller has.
double check it based on the Magnuson install manual.

like others said, searching for a few missing parts and worst case a full rotor rebuild from SCOL, probably around the $2500 mark.

having done exactly this, bought a kit that was “complete”, I need to find a few extra small things, as well as the supercharger needing a full rebuild, like mentioned above, my only finding it out after I had finally installed it. I ended up paying new money for a used TRD original. Wish I had gone new in hindsight.
Maximum I would honestly pay for a used unit, even listed as complete, around $2500 to maybe 3000 if I were to do it again.

 

Yeh, I bought a used one from Co-Part, for $1,000 but it was just the blower. Adding up the costs for the parts kits, I ended up just flipping it on Marketplace. After the parts kits, and a rebuild, I'd have maybe saved $500. And thankfully at the time the VT kit brand new was only $4500, and no taxes.

 

I was looking at the VT kit as well. Are they Carb legal? I’m in California

 

Nope, not CARB legal

 

Just installed my magnuson. Had Toyota put the trd tune on it. I’m noticing it takes an extra crank or two when starting the truck. Is this normal with the supercharger? Truck drives great. Way more responsive.

 

Fuel pump.

I'm sort of not even kidding my dude. I remember mine used to do that crap and it was a fuel demand issue, either that or the check valve in the fuel pump is bunk. Either way... Yeahhhh...

 

Your first issue to fix is the TRD tune. It's mediocre, at best. Get with @JustDSM and his OTT network for something much better.

, but suspect a check valve issue is more likely than a pump issue at startup.

 

sucks cuz i just put the long range tank in. Odd thing is if i get in the truck. Turn it to acc for 3 seconds then go to start it. It fires right up.

 

pretty sure it’s the check valve now that i think about it. Cuz the truck runs great. But it makes sense it’s starved for fuel the first couple seconds if the fuel has drained back into the tank. If i leave on acc for a couple seconds then turn the key to start it fires right up.

 

Well yeah, but traditionally speaking, a check valve issue requires a fuel pump replacement anyways because they are usually integrated into the pump as it is. Couple thoughts here.. He can always get an aftermarket check valve and install it externally from the fuel pump itself, but that still doesn't address the weak capabilities of the OEM pump given the increased demand that the blower requires.

It's more common than you think. It's just that no one talks about it because they assume that the extended cranking is normal.

 

It’s easy enough to diagnose and make sure before you tear into it. Just turn the key to run position and let it prime for a sec or two before you crank. If you still have your issue you’ve got something else going on.

 

Some thoughts and theories here, but I admit I have no dog in this fight and I'm just curious on general debug theory and actuality -

Are you guys sure about the acc/run thing for priming fuel pressure, or do you just "think" it must? I thought that our trucks had an engine rpm input, and fuel pump doesn't run unless there is a minimum engine speed, like 100rpm or whatever. So that, if the engine isn't running after a crash, the pump isn't still feeding the fire, etc. And as such, yes if the check valve is bad, it will be small delay after the start of cranking due to relying on fuel pressure from previous run that isn't there. And the pump won't start running until you actually crank the engine and there is RPM signal. But, turning to acc/on wouldn't solve that issue. I tried as carefully as I could just now, and when first turning key I couldn't hear the fuel pump at all. Maybe it didn't run cause I have enough pressure in the rail still? I dunno, but my pump is LOUD, enough to hear it clearly while truck is running, so I'm positive it didn't turn on for any length of time. But maybe I missed it...

I think there may be some sort of other thing going on, electrical/computer initialization, etc? Something that a few secs of acc/on would solve?

Maybe someone with more knowledge than me can correct my thinking. But for some reason I thought the fuel pump didn't run until cranking.

Also, just thinking out loud here: If the check valve was truly bad, and fuel drained backwards through the regulator in the engine bay, and the pump, back into the tank where the return line was above the fuel level in the tank and air actually was introduced there instead of fuel, not only would it take a long time to prime, many many seconds, but the air/vapor in the line would cause rusting from the inside out and we would have all sorts of problems. The reality of a bad check valve is that the fuel is there but the line isn't under pressure, so it only takes a split second of pump running to bring it up to a reasonable pressure and fire the injectors.

Can anyone correct my thinking?

 

Thanks for your post. It looks like I should have checked this myself first before posting, and after looking this up, what I found says I was dead wrong and it doesn’t prime in “run position” on initial key on (like some other brands).
However, I’d offer this to @Mademan925 , it’s just a hunch, but when similar things have happened to me in the past right after doing some major work, it usually had something to do with what I did, and wasn’t something totally new. Good luck figuring it out, at least it starts!

 

The pump activates on key until it's primed no RPM required. I think the delay is probably more related to airflow detection/calibration. You just added a whole bunch of volume to the intake with the SC. Is 1 second of cranking time really worth pursuing?

 

I know some cars will prime on unlock or door open.
Most Euro cars do one of the two.
I’ve never heard the stock pump in my Tacoma though, no idea what the Toyotas procedure is !

 

yeah it’s between 1-2 full seconds. But truck sat all night. I turned it to acc this morning for a second or two. Then clicked the key to start and she instantly fired. As long as it keeps doing that I’m all good. If not I’ll drop the long range tank and put a new pump in it. If I’m still having issues I’ll pressure test. Then if I’m loosing pressure I’ll pull the charger off and check my injectors. But man i love the way the truck drives with the super charger. It’s quick and responsive. Falling in love with the truck I’ve had for 12 years all over again.