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Long Travel BS Thread

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by amaes, Aug 20, 2010.

  1. Sep 1, 2025 at 7:54 PM
    dezrtdood760

    dezrtdood760 Active Member

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    Palm Desert, CA
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    Need some help,

    I just noticed after my LT install that my helmed steering is rubbing my coil-over. Anybody know what it could be? I don't feel any binding, no noise, nothing seems weird as far as drivability.

    It doesn't seem close when sitting, or even at full turn.. but it is obvisiously touching. I haven't even took the truck out yet to full potential really since i'm waiting on parts for the rear to get here. Just wondering is anyone has experienced a similar situation.

    Pic 1.jpg
    Pic 3.jpg
     
  2. Sep 1, 2025 at 7:55 PM
    Pittsy

    Pittsy AKA LS6Taco - Ex car guy, current truck guy.

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    Ah, it appears to be those “self clearancing” tie rods.
     
    Squirt likes this.
  3. Sep 1, 2025 at 10:29 PM
    Sterling_vH111

    Sterling_vH111 Go do something real instead.

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    Seems to happen depending on the coilover specs / spring seat.
    I have a similar issue, and got some offset on joints for the outer tire rod and, but they have worn out pretty fast.
    Like maybe 1000 dirt miles and they have noticeable slop if the wheel is off the ground.
     
  4. Sep 2, 2025 at 3:44 PM
    Blueberry.Taco

    Blueberry.Taco blueberry.taco (IG)

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    some welding required
    21k miles with the JD 2.25 kit and today I noticed what looks like a liner on the LCA spherical falling out. What does it look like to you guys? I’m gonna write up an email to JD to see what they think too. IMG_7830.jpg
     
  5. Sep 2, 2025 at 3:58 PM
    Airdog

    Airdog did your Mom

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    Its time for a new one...no doubt
     
    Jerez likes this.
  6. Sep 2, 2025 at 4:18 PM
    Blueberry.Taco

    Blueberry.Taco blueberry.taco (IG)

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    some welding required
    Agreed, just very far away from “home” where I have access to a friend’s shop to swap it out (like 2600 miles and a border crossing). I’ve never seen this kind of failure before and have no idea how fast things will deteriorate now that there’s a gap to let grit in and also it’s metal to metal contact…. Do I need to cut my trip short and run to the nearest shop that can handle this like overland outfitters (only 500 miles away)?
     
  7. Sep 2, 2025 at 4:46 PM
    Supra4x4

    Supra4x4 IG: hash_brown55

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    Whole lotta stuff
    It's not a complicated operation to swap out the uniball. If you can get a replacement, tons of auto shops/tire shops should have a ball joint press handy if you can find one wherever you are.
     
  8. Sep 2, 2025 at 5:08 PM
    Blueberry.Taco

    Blueberry.Taco blueberry.taco (IG)

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    some welding required
    Maybe I’m closer to civilization now but up until a couple days ago I was remote enough to struggle finding fresh groceries… also getting parts shipped to me would have been difficult. I think I saw my first Amazon locker today in 2 or 3 months
     
    MonkeyProof likes this.
  9. Sep 2, 2025 at 9:09 PM
    not_nick

    not_nick Well-Known Member

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    keeping jersey dirty
    They'll go a while like that before you really get dangerous. Like enough you can make it back that few thousand miles and then some. Best to keep it lubricated pretty well for the time being and check the temp of them once in a while
     
  10. Sep 2, 2025 at 11:42 PM
    WormSquirts

    WormSquirts Armageddon

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    Where are you at? What are your plans? You should stop by regardless! If you do want to get us to swap those though, just let me know so I can make sure we have the parts in stock. We just swapped a set the other day.
     
  11. Sep 3, 2025 at 5:24 AM
    Bandido

    Bandido Engine...er

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    For your application, probably skip the PTFE lineup for replacement, they articulate more freely, but wear out stupid quick in wet environments.
     
  12. Sep 3, 2025 at 5:25 AM
    906taco

    906taco Well-Known Member

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    I found this to be true as well. However the WSSX have been great. I don’t use the COM series at all anymore. Not even on shocks.
     
    not_nick likes this.
  13. Sep 3, 2025 at 5:31 AM
    Bandido

    Bandido Engine...er

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    haven't you been garaging your truck and not driving in winter?

    I know you see significantly more water in the UP than any of the cali folks... but I'm not sure the overland af adventure Bluebs is on is the same usecase lol

    that said... I'll try those next... I have only been using COM and my DIY LT arms will switch back to ball joint
     
  14. Sep 3, 2025 at 5:35 AM
    906taco

    906taco Well-Known Member

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    I don’t drive it in the salt no. However it still sees plenty of water in the spring/summer/fall. The COM series wouldn’t make it through a single season. The WSSX do.
     
  15. Sep 3, 2025 at 9:04 AM
    Blueberry.Taco

    Blueberry.Taco blueberry.taco (IG)

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    some welding required
    Interesting, unfortunately even though the JD pin covers have a grease nipple on the top, I found them impossible to get a grease gun on due to how close the CV is, so I feel like running a nonPTFE bearing is going to be impossible to make last without constant greasing.

    Cory you prefer the WSSX over the AIN?
    I never actually checked the PN of the bearings that came from JD but the replacements on their website are AIN
    https://jdfabrication.com/products/fk-uniball

    we’re currently bumbling down Telkwa Pass currently. Vancouver area wasn’t on our agenda for this season (southwest BC seems like it deserves a whole season to explore) but definitely possible to drive over there eventually. What series bearing do you usually replace with? Looks like dirt king and total chaos use WSSX?
     
  16. Sep 3, 2025 at 9:54 AM
    906taco

    906taco Well-Known Member

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    100% prefer the WSSX over all. IMO, greasing these isn’t ideal to begin with as it can actually cause the liners to slip. Instead, I like to toss some tri flow at them every so often to keep them happy and noise free.
     
  17. Sep 3, 2025 at 2:09 PM
    Blueberry.Taco

    Blueberry.Taco blueberry.taco (IG)

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    some welding required
    Huh. Looking at the specs of the two, I’m confused why anyone would pick AIN over the WSSX which lists a higher radial force spec.
    makes me think I should go ahead and swap both lowers at least to the WSSX now, with plans to change the uppers later when they wear out.
    i currently just use superlube to keep the “sealed” side of the uniballs clear of moisture and PTFE spray on the undersides. I have a bottle of triflow but hate how terrible it applies upside down. The squeeze bottle with straw just isn’t a good solution. Does no one else struggle with that bottle design?
     
    906taco[QUOTED] likes this.
  18. Sep 3, 2025 at 2:10 PM
    tacotunner06

    tacotunner06 Well-Known Member

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    LS Swap with RSG Tranzilla, Custom hi clearance front bumper, Relentless: Slider's, bed rails, rear bumper, Prinsu with 40" BD s8. Dirt Designs 3.5 LT. Archive Garage rear towers/shackle flip/SUA. King Air bumps. King LT Coilovers in front. King 12x2.5 in rear. ARB rear air locker and twin compressor. SCS f5's with 33" Ridge Grapplers. 20" S8 mounted in bumper, squadron sport fog lights, squadron pro backup lights, LP6's bumper mounted.
    that and the 17-4 stainless will rust at least slower than chromoly will.
     
  19. Sep 3, 2025 at 2:14 PM
    906taco

    906taco Well-Known Member

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    You can get tri flow in an aerosol as well. I personally only apply to the top sides of them and let it work its way through. I’ve never so much as had one let out even a faint squeak.
     
  20. Sep 3, 2025 at 2:47 PM
    Blueberry.Taco

    Blueberry.Taco blueberry.taco (IG)

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    some welding required
    Huh well would you look at that, aerosol can available even on Amazon. I wonder why I didn’t see that option in the past.
     

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