TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

To my PHX/AZ boosties that have HHs.

There's a hell of a deal for an Archive Garage rear cross brace in your area.

I have no skin in this... just wanted to pass along a FS item that hardly comes up and makes a world of difference in how your truck handles.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/archive-cross-brace.864778/

I have a similar cross brace and its a worthwhile upgrade

 

If you know your pump is good and not leaning out you fuel trims. You can add a check valve in line from the fuel tank and not have to drop the tank.

 

Replaced a bad fuel pump, soldered connections with diesel/fuel safe heat shrink and replaced the rubber hose from the URD kit. I did find one of the crimp connectors loose.

This is from OTT, “Yes, that helped, as the truck will hit the target for a moment, then on longer pulls lean out. Nothing like before, but shows a possible voltage condition or a bad pump…”

This was after I did the FPR mod and removed the fuel filter temporarily. I’m hoping by removing the crimp connectors, and a brand new pump that it solved the voltage situation.

Got rid of the Volant intake as well.

I’ll be doing a log tonight so hopefully we are good to go!

 

Havent seen a video on here in awhile.. finally got the build to a point where launches are feasible.. stock gear ratio, traction control on, injector duty cycle at 90% after i bored the sc inlet. Pretty much all of the bolt ons.

First video was only in first gear attempting to do a rolling burnout..

Second video was more of a launch to see how well i could hook..

Lsd not yet installed so my locker is taking a major beating lol

 

Good news, it was a bad fuel pump!

 

Finally bit the bullet and started cutting up the spec u y pipe even more. Welded up a vibrant merge collector and resonator thats been sitting for awhile.

 

Fully tuned boys! I’m on the spicy tune…loving it so far lol!

Huge thanks to @JustDSM!!

 

That's freakin' awesome, feels good when the machine is running good!!!

 

It’s been a such a hassle since the superchargers been installed, it was all worth it. Tuesday it goes in to get an exhaust leak fixed.

 

gawd, I know! I have mine up and running again after cat failure killing my engine. It runs good, but the new primary cat are no good from out of the box. Now after all four cat and engine rebuild I have to replace the primaries again. At this point I know the engine runs good though and strong. 2025 has not been my year for vehicles.

 

How did you guys remove the rotors from the supercharger? So I can change the needle bearings . I tried prying the edges, but it doesn't want to budge..

 

It is very tight at first. It took me awhile being gentle with pry bars on the tabs and gentle tapping. Tap and pry a little at a time equally all around, once the inner lip clears about 3/8" or 1/2" from the main charger housing it comes right out. Are you doing the rebuild yourself, how many miles on the charger - hopefully when you pull the rotors the coating is still intact.

 

Flat head right in between the edges. If that fails a rubber or a plastic mallet. With some gentle taps to dislodge it all around.

 

Yes I'm doing the rebuild myself. I have 150K on the supercharger

 

You know I've heard about the rotor coating being an issue and seen it a few times on other blowers, but what is the concern regarding the coating coming off or not? Concern about boost pressure?

 

Got the needle bearings out. Thanks guys

 

According to the guys I spoke with at superchargers online it helps with creating that zero tolerance clearance and creates that perfect seal. If there are any chips or scuffs on the coating it may affect the blowers efficiency. They also recommended that if your supercharger (our Eaton 95) is over 100,000 miles regardless of coating being good or bad they recommend new rotors.

 

Looks good to go, hows the plate where the rotors are attatched too, mine had some weird scratches/scuffs but my rotors after 100,000 miles still had all the coating.

 

The black coating is starting to come off. especially in the inner grooves. Should I replace it? or wait for another 100k miles

 

high speed labs has one for $1,250. Its has a dry film lubricant. Does this last longer the oem teflon? https://www.ebay.com/itm/267374020713