My ‘98 eats axle seals and bearings

My ‘98 tacoma has gone through three sets of rear axle seals and wheel bearings in the last 6 years. Why is this happening? What do I need to know before getting this replaced again? What questions should I be asking my mechanic? Thanks!

 

Bent housing or shaft

 

To confirm bent housing

measure the gap between tire and bed side arch at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock
Then compare opo side

how’s your rear tire wear been ?

 

Let a retard jump in here...

as stated in below post.....always check the 'breather' for clog 1st....
that'll rarely be it tho....just the easiest to fix....

However beyond that seal design changed about 10 yrs ago

now you have to set that set ring so the seal straddles it in perfect center

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-diff-fluid-leaking-out-of-rims.865521/#post-30833620

You cant just do it blindly anymore......you have to 'test' where that seats on the retainer ring
most just reverse that ring so its taper points outboard (pic below), giving a larger usable seat area....

can see on the above pic.....if they didnt reverse that ring....edge of the seal would have been really close to that bevel

best fix would be if they got rid of the bevel.........
......evidently the new seal is still able to set against that edge without trauma....

A lot of non toyota mechs will screw this up....

if you screw it up.......no worries......you just get to do it again in 10K ~ 20K

practice makes perfect....


grease test or marker test takes less than 10min

4 runners been going thru this for a long time....they're the ones who first alerted about the newer seal's shorter stiffer lip...
and the ones who developed the reverse ring fix(Mr coffee mod) and grease test


Timmy does the grease test at the 57:00 mark

Toyota Rear Axle Seal/Bearing Replacement (ABS Rearend)




obviously if the axle is rusty or pitted......the ring itself may get undermined
a very good reason not to drive thru deep water....

 

For those who want to avoid all this as long as possible.....

change that diff fluid every 3 or 4 yrs........old dirty fluid turns into cutting fluid

rear seal jobs are not cheap or easy......especially with the new (improved) seal

changing just the seal......is now hit or miss

an aftermarket seal may actually do better now...


take it for whats it worth.....from a retard...

 

Do you drive off-road a lot? ("Off-road" to me means lotsa roots/rocks/ruts requiring speeds of under 10 mph for 20 miles or more.)

 

1st thing is 1st

You check that breather vent plug or change it for good measure
Can build up some pressure blow seals I have read if plugged

 

FYI that is only for the elocker axles. The "8.4" axle without ABS does not have the issue with the retainer positioning.

 

Really Good info above from multiple peoples

jules….let us know what you find!!!

 

Yes, I live in a town with one paved road. I do a small amount of driving on rough roads but mostly nice gravel roads.

 

Then I would suggest you find another mechanic who understands exactly how to set the seal on the axle. Good luck finding one! I understand that the seal cannot be set too far in or too far out less there be leakage issues and subsequent bearing wear-out as the oil in the differential tends to wash out the bearing lubrication.

You can check Timmy the Toolman's video on replacing the seal to see just how critical seal placement is.

 

Actually its that ring that the adjustable part....tiny amount

you could actually have a machine shop press out the axle(s) initially with the ring./bearing...

.....jerry rig a pipe and tap it back together.......if you had someone to pull it apart

only special tool then is a reverse pliers for the large cir-clip(s)

 

There's no jerry rigging it's a hassle to do it with the right tools and direction from posts on this site and Timmy's video on youtube. You need to find someone who knows what they are doing.
And you don't need a 20 ton press that's a HF 12 ton press and 12 ton press tool kit