OEM Style Kill Switch

GT1500 or GT1900 with the relay kit should get you what you want. However reach out to the owner CJ, he is extremely helpful.

 

Reaching out for help as I’d rather hold this off and get the right answers than accidentally frying something.

I got 41.22 kill switch and a blank faced on/off switch. I connected the ground of the 41.22 to the ground of the switch and the red wire of the 41.22 to the green wire of the switch. Do I have it flipped and red is supposed to go to red? Wouldn’t that dump 12v into the switch?

Below is the chart of the switch from the manufacturer. Thanks.

 

I THINK you are trying to use the blank faced switch instead of the 41.22 tiny toggle switch?

If so then it looks like you connect the two wires from the 41.22 toggle switch to the red and green wires from the new switch. The blue and black wire are just for the light up functions of the switch itself.

 

Correct. Ordered the blank faced switch from Air On Board.

Does the negative wire from the switch not need to connect to the negative of the 41.22?

If I’m only using the red/green wires from the blank faced switch, do I connect red to red and green to black?

 

No. The black from the switch is supposed to go to a body ground, same as the 41.22 kit. However if you are going for a stealth look then you may want to leave the switch ground disconnected all together. It's purpose is to light up the switch. That other blue wire on the switch you likely want to leave disconnected too.

I dont imagine you want this switch lighting up at all? If not then just use the green and red wires to connect to the 41.22 toggle switch leads.

 

Correct again. No light at all. I want to leave the lights off for a stealthier look.

I’ll go ahead and try connecting the green/red on the toggle switch to the 41.22. With that in mind, which lead will end up going to which? Red to red and black to green? Or does it not matter?

 

It should not matter for a simple switch like this.

 

Copy that. I appreciate the help a ton.

I’ll report back once I’ve tested it out.

 

They sell kits of it prewires pretty much so all you need to do is plug and run the wipes to a switch.

$17 Universal Fuse Bypass Switch kit for ATM Mini-Fuse Towed Vehicles, with Heavy Duty Rocker Toggle Switch and Waterproof Boot Cap Cover, 14"es Long

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Bypass-Mini-Fuse-Vehicles-Waterproof/dp/B0CF9SDSF5

 

Subd’

 

Update for anyone who is curious.

Connecting my AOB switch to the 41.22 Killswitch did not work. To my understanding, the 41.22 switch is negativity triggered while most AUX switches are positively triggered. When I tried connecting my switch to the 41.22, it immediately tried to crank without me trying.

I later confirmed this via contacting 41.22 and also reached out to AOB to determine if their switches are positively or negatively triggered. They are positively triggered.

I will now need to get an additional relay to attach and bridge my switch to give a ground to the 41.22

 

Wha? A switch is just connecting two wires together. Did you leave the black and blue wires disconnected on the AOB switch? I can see how it might try to ground out if the black was grounded. You only need the red and green wires since you have a blank faced switch. You dont want or need to bother with the switches LED circuit.

 

Yeah, I left the black and blue on the AOB untouched. I only used the red and green wires on it to connect to the 41.22. In this case, red to red (41.22) and green to black (41.22).

 

Apparently, the AOB switch is a +positive activated switch.

According to 41.22 website, they offer a aux relay and state “The default Kill Switch Toggle uses -Negative ground activation–while most AUX switches (both aftermarket and OEM built-in) use +Positive activation, thus you will need an additional Relay to be switched by your Aux switch to provide the Kill Switch’s bypass relay a path to ground activation.”

 

I see what they are selling and why. However the way you installed the switch is not the problem. A switch is just connecting two wires together. They way you have the AOB switch wired is just acting as a simple switch. Aftermarket AUX switches do indeed switch positive (Supply +12v) and the AOB switch switches negative. So if you supply +12v to the 41.22 gear it wont work. However you are simply replacing their toggle switch with a differently shaped switch. There is no functional difference between the two. (The AOB switch may have some LED lighting circuitry which is why there is a ground)

-Make sure that bypass relay is not turned 180* - Some relays can work this way, not sure if the toyota one can or not.
-Does using the stock AOB toggle switch fix the issue?

 

Exactly my thoughts on how it should be set up.

To answer your questions:

-The 41.22 relay only enters in one way
-I assume you mean the stock toggle 41.22 switch? I didn’t connect the switch directly to the 41.22, but I did connect the two wires from its built-in relay to confirm the device wasn’t faulty. I couldn’t get the connection to close (since I didn’t have the switch wired), but the truck started normally. If the 41.22 switch had been connected and turned off, it would have worked as intended.

You said the orientation of the wires didn’t matter right?


Edit:
Unless I try connecting the 41.22 red to the AOB green and the 41.22 black to 41.22 black? It’s positive the black AOB wire is used only to illuminate the switch?

 

Use only the red and green wires on the AOB switch.

the 41.22 control box is just an empty box trying to make the wiring look more complex.
All thats happening here is you are either providing a ground for their bypass relay or not.

I wish I had the time to fully break this down, it's a very very simple wiring process. The only complicated thing here is the fancy bypass relay.




And the fancy bypass relay may be suspect. Read a few reviews of them being problematic. Looks like they are some DIY 3d printed solution.

 

No kidding. I thought that box actually meant something haha.

My understanding was that the AOB switch was trying to send +12v back to the relay, hence why it automatically started cranking.

I will say, the housing of the starter relay isn’t quality. Pulled it out the other day and the housing came out first and left the coil still attached to the fuse box.

While this should be a simple 2 wire install, am I just out of luck and should seek out a different solution?

 

Thank you for the pictures of what I've always suspected - an empty box meant to confuse and impress the unwary. Never saw any reason to have a box - and the box only advertises the existence of a starter anti-theft device. Covert wiring, like the OP's idea for the switch is my preference.

OP should return the piece of junk; using what he has learned thus far and create his own. Reason for return could be the relay assembly falling apart.

OP has some good ideas on using an unlabeled switch, I would suggest putting that phone charger switch in series as a two-way back up - i.e. both have to be activated for the truck to start. Or a second blank switch somewhere else. Does not matter if a passenger fools around with it, as it is only required to be on when starting the vehicle. Both switches would have to be on to start the vehicle.

I've never liked the idea of just interrupting the Starter circuit only. The engine requires 4 things to operate: Air, Fuel, Crank and Spark.

With todays sophisticated thieves, that can bypass the regular Smart Key, the starter not turning over is simple child's play to troubleshoot.

There are those who say the starter interrupt will stop the casual theft; yes it will, but when you have been marked, thus chosen to have your vehicle stolen, i.e. someone has an order for your type of vehicle nothing much will stop it from happening down to the tow truck hauling it away which none of us will stop with any of these simple mods.

 

the fact that’s it’s not a simple two wire install suspects me to believe there is something wrong with their relay.

how exactly do you have this thing wired? It should be very simple. I wish I had an easy way to draw a wiring diagram right now. This is a very very simple wiring setup. It’s just made to look more complex than it is.