OEM Style Kill Switch

A switch is simply a “short circuit”. Nothing complicated about it.

 

Ignore the switch, just touch the two wires that connect to the switch together. This will do the same as the switch to see if the circuit works.

 

I have the starter relay from 41.22 plugged into the fuse box. The wires run to that empty box where all three connections are plugged in. 1 for the starter relay, 1 for the ground, and 1 for the wire that feeds into the cabin. The positive and negative wires that I just mentioned pass through the firewall and connect to the AOB red/green switch.

 

Yes, I did try that earlier and it did work. Nothing to “kill” as I didn’t have the switch connected, but my truck started up just fine when the two wires were connected.

 

That means you aren't using the correct wires on the switch. You should be using Red1 and Green. Verify you aren't using Red2 or Blue (dash lights). Use a DMM (Ohm meter) to verify when the switch is pressed, the circuit is closed.

 

Thetr

There are only 4 colors on my switch. Red, green, blue, and black. Last night I had connected the red and green wires to the 41.22. The particular sequence was red to red (41.22) and green to black (41.22). The photo attached was provided by AOB.

 

Are you verifying Green and Red are closing when you latch the switch with an Ohm meter?

 

It is not a momentary switch is it?

 

AH! this is the issue most likely. That black ground with the ring terminal needs to be grounded to the body. The "harness to toggle switch" lead needs to be the two wires connected to the AOB switch.

Red1 and Red2 I believe are the wires on the CH4x4 switches, not the AOB switches?

The Blue and Black wires on the AOB switch need to be connected to nothing. You only want the red and green ones connected to the harness for the 41.22 switch harness. The 41.22 ground terminal still needs to be connected to the ground.

This is a VERY good question.

 

Wow what a hassle, I read thru this whole thread and I'm definitely putting a simple fuel pump interrupt switch (of my choice) in my truck this weekend. Good luck with that.

 

Maybe also have a second set of contacts on the kill switch, so if you try to start the truck, with the kill switch in the locked-out position, it sets off all the airbags the minute you press the start button, so you can make a citizens arrest. Has anyone tried this?

 

It is my humble opinion that kit is a waste of time and money.

Anything that uses a switch with polarity, a bypass relay, a control module which appears to be just an empty plastic box??, and requires an accessory diode if the switch is reversed is just ridiculous IMHO. That is 100X more complicated than it needs to be.

If you took that harness to a Mobile One Audio type of store that does custom auto electronics such as alarms and stereos and backseat gaming stations all day every day, they would politely and professionally tell you to toss that chit in the trash. They won't install that. No way, no how. There are so many better ways to do it.

I also wish to politely share my concern about needing a 1 amp diode installed if you reverse the polarity of the switch. Did y'all notice that in the fine print? It is not like you can just run to Radio Shack any more and pick up a 1 amp diode. Yeah, Amazon is your friend, but you get the point. Why are we farting around with a polarized circuit? This is DIRECT CURRENT ordinary fused 12V low voltage vehicle wiring. Not 220V AC that is powering your home's AC unit and can shock the crap outta you.

And did y'all also notice the fine print that states this harness is only rated for 3 amps. Why only 3 amps? WUT? That's what powers your USB port. And dome light. And heated seat. And rear window defogger. Not a circuit to the fuel pump or starter motor. And wouldn't that diode de-rate the entire harness to 1 amp??? That's an even better question than "is this a momentary switch?"

FYI - it is *not* a momentary toggle switch. Come on, peeps. A doorbell is a momentary toggle switch. Or any elevator button. The trigger on your cordless drill.
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See my post with a diagram and the YouTube video above. They are practically the exact same thing. SPLICE A SINGLE WIRE TO THE FUEL PUMP OR PCM WITH AN INLINE TOGGLE SWITCH. This will defeat 99.99999% of would-be thieves.

Y'all don't need that switch to fit in your fancy switch pod. And it doesn't need to be lighted with an LED backglow. There is no reason for that. It needs to be hidden under the dash where ONLY YOU know about it. There is not a thief anywhere that will even have a clue that the fuel pump or PCM is not receiving Key On switched power because your hidden kill switch is still in the OFF position. Interrupting power. They will try to crank your truck once or twice, think you have a dead battery or something like that, and give up and start running toward a vehicle that is easier to steal. And, please don't be silly, they're not going to sit there and pop the hood and start looking at your fuse box.

 

I agree with the diode comment and saw it as well.

The switch wiring is rated to 3amps. Common with any 26ga switch as it is supposed to run a relay.

The OP isn’t running the toggle switch but an aftm switch from AOB similar to ch4x4 switches.

 

From the back and forth above on the wire connections, it sounds like the OP has only the red and green of the AOB switch connected and the blue and black unused. That's a simple switch replacement. The 4122 unit should work. But if the overly complicated and expensive product is not working, I am suspecting the AOB switch is momentary which is why I asked the question.

Perhaps the OP should press and hold the AOB button and crank the engine to see if the circuit works as it should. If it does, then he needs to return the switch and get a toggle switch instead.

 

GREAT
This means there is nothing wrong with the kit (41.22) you bought or its installation; only the switch connection needs to be figured out.

I cannot make heads or tails of the wiring diagram earlier posted (post #22) and the AOB website is lacking as well.

Any chance of a clearer picture or a good link on the AOB site as to the actual workings of the switch. It is too out of focus for me to read on my computer.

 

Just tested it. Didn't seem to close at all (at least I didn't see any movement on the interface). I tried different combos of colors besides blue.

This is not a momentary switch. According to AOB, 'This 12 volt push switch from AOB is a single pole single throw ON-OFF switch designed to operate your 12 volt accessories."

Let me know if you see this image better.

 

The only reason I'm hesitant about going this route is that it affects OEM wiring. While I can get a Universal Fuse Bypass Switch like someone mentioned, the issue I run into is how thick the braided wire is inside the fuse box. If I happened to take off the braided wire, am I just going to run into the same issue that I am having with my current setup?

 

Am I missing something to as why this wouldn't work? Seems simple enough to pick a fused circut, plug this in and run the wires to a hidden location.

$17 Universal Fuse Bypass Switch kit for ATM Mini-Fuse Towed Vehicles, with Heavy Duty Rocker Toggle Switch and Waterproof Boot Cap Cover, 14"es Long

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CF9SDSF5

 

Yes, the image in post #56 I can now make out.

@ZColorado in post #23 was the first to give the best advice. I do not know why that would not work. Which wires to which switch wires would not matter as he says. The other switch wires remain disconnected.

My only guess is that the switch is bad, either as new or it has since been damaged by all the guessing. An OHM meter is necessary at this point to see if the Red/Green wires do actually switch on and off.

An inquiry or thought: When you connect the two wires together how much sparking is there - you may have to do this in the dark. If there is a lot of sparking it is possible the 41.22 kit takes too much current to activate and overloaded the AOB switch which has a limitation of 3 Amps.

 

Agreed on all your points there.

This is why I suspect the 41.22 relay bypass is bad. That relay bypass should take the relay coil ground pin and use the toggle switch to ground it, the ring terminal for ground supports this. If it's somehow connected to the full amperage circuit and not the relay coil contact then this is why the truck would suddenly crank. However I have been confused with a bit of OPs posts.

Not sure what else needs to be said. Put the 41.22 kit back to how it came from the factory. does it work? If not then it's bad. If it does then cut off the little toggle switch they gave you and connect to the AOB switch like we discussed. Does it work? if not the AOB switch is bad. This circuit is so damn simple. It's just a ground for the relay that has a switch inline.