Jacking Front End Question

Only 2 more days till I install the front 5100's/884 OME Coil and new LR UCA's, but had a question on the front jack location. Look at a diagram found thru here and noticed it says to jack on what I think is called the front brace/crossmember...something to that effect. I took a pic (below) of this location to make sure I get it right. Only problem is there seems to be a big 'nipple' is the center of this brace. Do you jack from this nipple or off to the side?

Also started to do alittle pre-bending to get the UCA bolt out and checking sizes of all nuts/bolts to remove and seems largest size I have to deal with is 19mm (unless I missed something)...does this seem correct?

Thx for all the help I have recieved from members in this forum to 'Get Er Done'

Scott

 

Bump

 

yup

 

Yes the is the spot to lift the front of the truck from. You can lift from any part of the frame also.

 

i have found it easier to use the side of the frame closer to the front and to jack up and put on jack stands.

 

my 1st gen does not have that great big bulge thank goodness, LOL
Along the same lines as you thou my stock bottle jack no longer reaches any part of my frame after installing a 3" lift so I tend to lift the front from under the LCA and sometimes that gets scary.

 

So from what I gather here, lifting from this point is good...but do it on the nipple or to the side of it? And the 19mm is the largest size socket needed for the job?

Thx

 

You also need a 21mm socket for the lug nuts.

 

Good to go with the lug nuts..have the one that came with the truck for that, thx.
Was more concerned with the shocks/UCA fittings.

Scott

 

Just installed 5100's with Eibachs and didn't have to touch the UCA bolts. I removed the sway bar bolts at the frame and where it meets the UCA, unbolted the steering linkage at the end and from there was able to get the new strut/coil in place without loosening either of the control arms.

 

lr uca you will need a big ass socket for the ball joint bolt....like 1 1/4" i belive
not 100% on the size but ill check tomm....

 

I will be installing new UCA's to account for any futher alignment issues.

Thx

 

Biggest nut on mu UCA/ball joint was the 19mm.
Didn't see anything bigger with what I have to remove..naybe the 2011's are different in this respect.

Thx

 

Scott is talking about aftermarket UCA's

 

Anymore thoughts on front end lifting from my pic in fist post..
On the nipple or just to the left of it?

Thx

 

Great, haven't seen them yet (deliver tomorrow) so another new socket to buy.

Was also looking at the torque values for everything, and noticed that the one nut that holds the coil on the shock is only 20ft/lbs. Seems low for such a critical part. Good old lock tight always adds that extra security when needed.

Thx

 

LR UCA's require a 32mm socket or equivalent in standard for the top retaining nut for the ball joint.
I had the 32mm already so wasn't getting the standard socket for it.

 

USE THE NIPPLE! seriously, thats what its there for.

 

I did and worked great..thx

On another note, now that the frame is about 16" from the ground, what is everyone using for a carry around jack in the event of a flat?

Most bottle jacks and scissor jacks won't go high enough.
I guess I could still use one if I jack the rear from the apple and the front from the nipple to change the tire.

Scott

 

Dumb question Tacomaman06:

After you jack up one side [on the front end frame] and put the jack stand in place, then you remove the jack, then the side you just put the jack stand under is going to be way off the ground as opposed to the other side of the front you have yet to jack up. . .

Is this a problem? Could you please explain?

If I use the nipple, I could jack up both sides of the front and then place 2 jack stands. . .

But on the rear end - where is the best point to jack from in the center to place both jack stands at once???

Any further explanation is appreciated. . .

Thanks - Johnny