Running 10-2 duplex to bed along passenger side?

I'm considering running 10-2 marine grade duplex wire to the bed for a 30a connector and am trying to decide which side to use.

Passenger side would be the shortest, cleanest run but it is in proximity to radiant heat from exhaust and the tailgate lock kit from Toyota has the whole run wrapped in foiled heat shield, which makes me think that may not be a good idea.. especially since I would not want to insulate the 10-2 wire as that would trap heat when being used at higher loads.

On the driver's side there's a lot of obstacles and i'd have to cut over to the passenger side cubby space back at the bumper.

So I'm curious what others have done and their experience reguarding heat.

Also should I wrap it in branded PET or use nylon split loom?

 

I have a question.

Why run duplex? Is it two circuits or are you not wanting to ground to the chassis for some reason? Because if it's the latter, you just unnecessarily doubled the length and therefore the voltage drop of your circuit. It's a much lower resistance to ground to the nearest chassis point.

For your question, either run high temperature cable or wrap it in high temp conduit.

 

Because it will be powered by a secondary battery and I would rather run the ground directly to the BSS distribution box under the hood then create a potential ground loop and resistance.

 

Makes sense. You're going to have to double the length in the 12V amperage chart then. For 30 amp fused, you're probably looking at a minimum 8 gauge to do an out and back run.

 

i just noticed that 10awg would even be too large for the connectors I planned to use,

What the actual fuck with this plug 12-14awg @30a??? https://powerwerx.com/panelpole-pan...ingle?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22365243086

 

I ran this wiring kit along the passenger side, from cubby directly to battery 2 years ago with zero heat issues.
I followed the inside of the frame, then up to the engine bay, and cross over the back side of the engine to the battery.

It is used for powering my fridge full time and hasn't let me down yet.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/171-12v-genesis-offroad-12v-power-outlet

I also have run wiring down the driver side and it wasn't fun going behind the fuel tank, that was for my power tailgate lock.

 

Yeah, I've ran a few things on that side, it's semi blind over the fuel tank though, which I'm a bit apprehensive about doing with a larger current carrying wire as well as the extra 6-8ft it would add to my run.

 

You're very vague about what your needs are.

In many cases, the listed amperage rating is a momentary peak rating, NOT the constant draw rating.

What crazy stuff are you doing to require a constant 30A load?

 

Mixed usage, likely powering a CPAP, diesel heater, , fridge, 12v inflator for mattresses and USB output. Maybe 12v in for a small jackery depending what I'm doing.

The majority of the time it would just be powering a fridge in the bed area, with my occasionally connecting other loads like USB for awning lights. I'd probably be fine with 20a but wanted to have 30a for growth or burst loads.

 

You need to take a step back and plan out what your desired power capability will be. I have run power for (2) 10 amp plugs and a 5 amp usb outlet. Each of which are on a dedicated circuit, all are fed by their own pair of 10awg wires. I ran everything from the battery, along the firewall, down the passenger frame rail to the cubby by the factpry 120v bed outlet. If i remember correctly, the harness I made was about 27' long. If i wanted more than 10 amps i would probably skip txl and run welding cable.

 

My plan is to power a fridge directly via a power pole connection, and on rare occasion use a power pole distribution block to give me additional outlets for things like a diesel heater. Or branch up to a RTT if I do end up getting one.

 

That is 3 seperate use cases, a fridge might draw 8 amps max, idk about the heater, and the added run to the rtt would drop voltage more. So you need to figure out what amp draw you need at each location, then determine the approximate length the power wires would need to be, and then you can figure out what size to use for the harness so that you are getting the voltage you need as well. Another option would be to run an auxillary battery and a low power charger to keep it topped off