Kill Switch Mod Write Up.

quick question.... would a 3A switch work? (like this one)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062544

 

wow you really hacked those customs switches up!

 

The switch and the wire need to be able to handle the current of the circuit. Take whatever size the fuse for that circuit is and add 20%. Fuse+20%=Wire and switch size.
There are Ampacity charts for determining wire size. Google it.

 

yea...i know, they are only temporary though. And they work so its all good.

 

Bump.

Is anyone thinking about doing a fuel pump cutoff write up? I think that the magnetic kill switches are a cool idea.
I would love to do something like this, just a little worried I'll mess something up.

 

Just for everyone's information, the DC inrush current of the green/black wire that is interrupted in this mod is 11.8 amps, so pick a switch accordingly.

 

Wow! Did the dealer put that tangled mess of wires in front of your fuse panel like that? I'd be taking it back and asking for it to be re-done. And why are they drilling into your dash ?

My 08 has ZERO wires in front of my fuse panel. Any wiring should be put in neat parallel bundles, then ideally loomed and taped.

The previous owner had Visions install my remote started, and even though you cant see it, I know what that looks like behind the dash and it makes me mad haha.

Anyways thanks for the write up.

 

My company truck came from the dealer's lot brand new with the same rats nest of wiring stuffed under the dash. Glad it's not MY rig. I'd be pissed. Still wondering if I am gonna get to fix it in a customer's driveway one of these days.

 

Ouch that sucks. Toyotas are some of the cleanest trucks I've seen from the factory, as far as wiring goes. Too bad the dealer scums it up so bad.

 

Don't Tacomas have Chipped keys? if i remember right they do. In this case, any thief smart enough to bypass the chip in the key is plenty smart enough to get past your switch and any thief not smart enough to do these things is going to bring a flat bed. In that case, you're screwed switch or not. I would be more worried about the damage when they break in to steal your stereo.

 

Back in the day I done a Fuel cut off on my integra. i bet several friends hundreds of dollars they couldnt start my car.. but none of them wanted to pay.

 

You miss the point. Without a chipped key to match to the ECU it is very difficult to steal these trucks. Most thief are just going to bring a flat bed. You're not adding any more security than the chipped key has.

 

I speak from experience. If i had done a fuel cut off on my tacoma. it could possible still be here today and never got stolen. yes it had a chipped key.

 

I still want to try this. Tempted to give it a shot. Unfortunately I'm still a little lost. I have only the most basic understanding of these diagrams. I assume I can't find just ANY yellow/blk wire in my truck and put a switch in the circuit. Where does one look to find these wires? Are they coming from the fuse box under and to the L of the steering wheel?

Thanks

TL

 

KILLSWITCH ENGAGE

 

Looks like you should be looking for a green wire with black stripe coming from the steering column and heading out under the hood to the starter relay.

The black with yellow wire is going to be under the hood, not inside.

Don't use a test light to ID wires, use a volt meter. Test light can trigger airbags. All airbag wiring SHOULD be covered in yellow loom, but no guarentees.

Edit: if you go after the black with yellow wire as Caribe suggested, that will be low current and would be the better choice electrically, but will be harder to get to. Use a heavy duty switch on the green with black wire and it will work too.

 

I'm happy with a chipped key.Secure enough.

 

Yup. Let's not use the green/black wire. Use the Black/Yellow as said below.

I fully agree. Thanks for your post.

The Black/Yellow wire is the way to go. If I read the diagram right, pin 1 of the starter relay goes to Engine room Junction block 2A and it is then on pin 8, The wire harness that plugs in R/B Jucnction connector is known as "2B" the Black/Yellow wire is now on pin 4 and from there it goes to connector P1 which is known as the Park/Neutral Posision Switch.

I surmise that this Park/Neutral Position switch is located somewhere inside the transmission shifter assembly. If so, it would be super simple to access and splice in a hidden switch.

Caribe can check my reading and make sure it's correct. I am not an EE but I do enjoy this stuff.

Fun stuff.

It's in the Engine junction block, that's where it starts, but I think it ends inside the automatic transmission shifter assembly,




There is a position sensor that is needed to make sure that the truck is in Park or Neutral or the truck will not start.

If I am correct we are looking for a gray connector and that Black/Yellow wire would be pin #5

 

Thanks Caribe, I seemed to have misplaced that doc which shows where the connectors are...